Chassis / Suspension / Axle Paint options?

[D-n-Tyke]

Starting to dig into cleaning up and redoing the frame and suspension on my low-budget build. Going to start by cleaning and repaininting the rear end and trailing arms. What is the best option out there to finish these with. I have searched and found that for low budget there pretty much are 3 good options. POR-15, VHT Chassis and Rollbar, and Rustoleum. Only thing I couldn't find in my search is longevity of these products. What are your guys' experience with these. Interested in hearing how these 3 last over time (ie over years). I read that POR-15 fades in UV so that is kind of a slight draw back for POR-15. Any draw backs to the others? Are there other products I should be looking into? Side note, planning on doing this work in my driveway so rattle can or paint brush application is a plus.

[57taskforce]

I brushed on chassis saver satin black when I did my frame about 4 years ago. Still holding up great. I wire wheeled the whole frame with an electric grinder then went over it all with lacquer thinner and then brushed the paint on. I’m very happy with it.

https://www.amazon.com/Magnet-Paint-...80370447&psc=1

I got a whole gallon and had some leftover.

[SkidmoreGarage]

If you have an air compressor, you can’t beat catalyzed products. An epoxy primer ($100/ gallon) and a couple coats of any quality chassis paint ($100/ gallon). It would probably take about half a gallon of each for just a frame, axle, and control arms.

Once you put in the prep work, the relative cost of the better materials won’t matter as much to you. The cost of spray cans really adds up fast. It seems cheaper until you are on your 12th can.

[fun in dirt]

Originally Posted by D-n-Tyke

...I have searched and found that for low budget there pretty much are 3 good options. POR-15, VHT Chassis and Rollbar, and Rustoleum. Only thing I couldn't find in my search is longevity of these products. What are your guys' experience with these...

I used all 3 on my Blazer and was not impressed with the POR15. After about 5 or 6 years it started coming off (yes it was well prepped) & small surface rust spots appearing back up. But Rustoleum is awesome! I used the hammered black (more gray looking) on my axles,frame rails & roll cage and it held up perfect for the last 10+ years through mud, water & all. A little soap & water and it looked new again; and best ever against chipping. I got it in quart form & applied mostly with foam brush, so a little thicker than spraying & helped make it more textured looking.
So that being said, on my current K20 truck build epoxy primed & Rustoleum. Using the VHT chassis & rollbar paint on firewall, front inner fenders and about anything else just spray can painting satin black.

[BASE]

I just did a couple of axles, hubs, crossmember and some other misc. brackets using SPI epoxy. It sprays really easy using the $10 HF "purple gun". Kind of a semi-gloss finish rather than the normal flat primer finish. It didn't make near as much of a mess in my garage and driveway as I thought it would. I've already dropped and beat the crap out of a few of those pieces and the paint seems to hold up well.

The only downside I know of with this stuff is that acid based rust removal products are a no-go prior to applying the paint (like picklex20).

[sick472]

For affordable and easy under body paint...I have used Rustoleum in a one gallon can on two different builds. The oldest build was finished 9 years ago and has about 16,000 miles on it and looks very good (aside from road grime and such). Prep is certainly the key with any paint and primer compatibility is also very important. I swear by sand blasting, but a thorough wire wheeling is better than nothing. I have found that the self etching primer needs to have a coat of regular primer over it for the Rustoleum to stick and stay stuck. I used cheap lacquer primer in those areas with a quick scuffing before applying the Rustoleum. I use the flat black Rustoleum, but a matte might be more advisable in visible areas like under the hood. The flat can be touched up and overcoated with the least amount of witness.

I can say the the POR-15 is holding up very well on the bottom of my wood bed (3 years old - 1500 miles), but I refuse to spend that kind of money, prep time, and application time for underbody/non-high-end-show quality of my builds.

The best thing I like about Rustoleum is that once nuts & bolts are installed, the paint scars from assembly and the new hardware can be quickly brushed and coated. And, being an oil based paint...it can take some motor/tranny oil contamination with out flaking out on you.

[Grumpy old man]

5 years ago you couldn't ask which paint to use without 20 responses on only use POR-15 ...Now not so much . It really depends on what you plan on using the truck for ? if it's a show queen strip it to bare metal and have it powder coated , Not much chance of it getting chipped and needing touch up pulling it on and off the trailer . If your going to drive it and still want to be able to have it look good and be able to touch it up as needed, My suggestion is to use Tractor Supply's Majic brand truck/tractor and implement paint . You can spray it , or brush it on and it's pretty good stuff , You must use the Catalyst hardener and if you want to thin it use Majic reducer, It's easy, It's low cost and it works .

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...te-black-1-gal