Help With New Instrument Cluster, please

[pjmoreland]

You can simulate the sender in the empty position by grounding the tan wire post on the gauge with ignition on.

Since the gauge doesn't move to 3:00 with the tan wire disconnected from the sender and ignition on, this indicates the problem is not with the sender.

I wonder if the gauge needle is mechanically stuck somehow.

[Zonaman]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

You can simulate the sender in the empty position by grounding the tan wire post on the gauge with ignition on.

Since the gauge doesn't move to 3:00 with the tan wire disconnected from the sender and ignition on, this indicates the problem is not with the sender.

I wonder if the gauge needle is mechanically stuck somehow.

I did ground the tan wire out, Stay right where its. I noted that when I unpacked the cluster, the fuel gauge showed in the 9 o"clock position. Don't know if that means anything or not.

[Zonaman]

Did pull that sending unit. It went from 4 to 96 Ohms. Knew it. Plastic float is doing fine

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by Zonaman

Did pull that sending unit. It went from 4 to 96 Ohms. Knew it.

There's gotta be something wrong with that new gauge.

I took some more measurements on my OEM gauge. I believe there are two windings inside the gauge that push the needle in opposite directions. One winding is between the power post and tan post, and it pushes the needle toward Empty. The other winding is between the tan post and the ground post, and it pushes the needle toward Full. With the tan wire disconnected, the needle goes way past Full (3:00) and I measured 8.55V on the tan post.

Since your needle isn't moving toward Full, this might be because the empty-pushing winding is pushing too hard, or the full-pushing winding is too weak. You measured only 57 Ohms for the full-pushing winding resistance, whereas I measured 103 Ohms. That seems odd to me.