55.2-59 1958 Saab story - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

dsraven · 10-07-2021, 06:17 PM

hey Josh, sorry man. I have looked everywhere for those links for the rear suspension stock height. can't find them. possibly somebody used them for a project or the wife has them hidden in the garden somewhere holding a plant up.

gottattooz · 10-07-2021, 06:35 PM

No worries. I appreciate the effort.

-Josh

gottattooz · 10-07-2021, 10:50 PM

So my new rotors came in. I started drilling the new bolt pattern. It takes forever, but it's gotta be done.

-Josh

gottattooz · 10-07-2021, 10:56 PM

I removed the front hub to press in the new studs when I remembered someone mentioning the hub centric bores might be smaller on newer wheels. Sure enough, the hub sticks out too far, so I'll cut it off flush with the rotor surface. More to follow.

-Josh

dsraven · 10-08-2021, 02:06 PM

its kinda good to have that raised area on the hub to keep the wheel "hub centric", as engineered, but if you cut that off so the wheel fits then ensure the studs you use fit the wheel stud bores well and you use the type of wheel nut required for the wheel. of course you would need to keep a small section so the rotor stays "hub centric". you could install the rotor and tighten down with a couple of wheel nuts, then use a scribe to mark the depth of the rotor flange, then you will know your "machine limits". chamfer the edge so it's easy to get the rotor on. when this wheel centering flange is removed it is the wheel studs taking the force of hitting bumps or potholes, I am sure you got that part though. in the end, if it works out and you are concerned about the impact forces, you could grab a couple of hubs and axles and have them machined to fit. its a good idea to keep one of your old rotors with the new wheel pattern so it's easy to mark a new rotor.
nice pics an progress. keep on postin. soon you'll driving.

10-07-2021, 06:17 PM	#1
dsraven Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: calgary alberta Posts: 8,501	Re: 1958 Saab story hey Josh, sorry man. I have looked everywhere for those links for the rear suspension stock height. can't find them. possibly somebody used them for a project or the wife has them hidden in the garden somewhere holding a plant up.

10-07-2021, 06:35 PM	#2
gottattooz Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Hampton, Ga Posts: 921	Re: 1958 Saab story No worries. I appreciate the effort. -Josh __________________ 1967 Buick Special wagon 1968 Jeep Wagoneer 1958 Chevy Panel Truck 2017 Suzuki M109R

10-07-2021, 10:50 PM	#3
gottattooz Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Hampton, Ga Posts: 921	Re: 1958 Saab story So my new rotors came in. I started drilling the new bolt pattern. It takes forever, but it's gotta be done. -Josh Attached Images __________________ 1967 Buick Special wagon 1968 Jeep Wagoneer 1958 Chevy Panel Truck 2017 Suzuki M109R

10-07-2021, 10:56 PM	#4
gottattooz Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Hampton, Ga Posts: 921	Re: 1958 Saab story I removed the front hub to press in the new studs when I remembered someone mentioning the hub centric bores might be smaller on newer wheels. Sure enough, the hub sticks out too far, so I'll cut it off flush with the rotor surface. More to follow. -Josh Attached Images __________________ 1967 Buick Special wagon 1968 Jeep Wagoneer 1958 Chevy Panel Truck 2017 Suzuki M109R

10-08-2021, 02:06 PM	#5
dsraven Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: calgary alberta Posts: 8,501	Re: 1958 Saab story its kinda good to have that raised area on the hub to keep the wheel "hub centric", as engineered, but if you cut that off so the wheel fits then ensure the studs you use fit the wheel stud bores well and you use the type of wheel nut required for the wheel. of course you would need to keep a small section so the rotor stays "hub centric". you could install the rotor and tighten down with a couple of wheel nuts, then use a scribe to mark the depth of the rotor flange, then you will know your "machine limits". chamfer the edge so it's easy to get the rotor on. when this wheel centering flange is removed it is the wheel studs taking the force of hitting bumps or potholes, I am sure you got that part though. in the end, if it works out and you are concerned about the impact forces, you could grab a couple of hubs and axles and have them machined to fit. its a good idea to keep one of your old rotors with the new wheel pattern so it's easy to mark a new rotor. nice pics an progress. keep on postin. soon you'll driving.



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