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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Hampton, Ga
Posts: 921
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Re: 1958 Saab story
I removed the front hub to press in the new studs when I remembered someone mentioning the hub centric bores might be smaller on newer wheels. Sure enough, the hub sticks out too far, so I'll cut it off flush with the rotor surface. More to follow.
-Josh
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1967 Buick Special wagon 1968 Jeep Wagoneer 1958 Chevy Panel Truck 2017 Suzuki M109R |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 8,501
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Re: 1958 Saab story
its kinda good to have that raised area on the hub to keep the wheel "hub centric", as engineered, but if you cut that off so the wheel fits then ensure the studs you use fit the wheel stud bores well and you use the type of wheel nut required for the wheel. of course you would need to keep a small section so the rotor stays "hub centric". you could install the rotor and tighten down with a couple of wheel nuts, then use a scribe to mark the depth of the rotor flange, then you will know your "machine limits". chamfer the edge so it's easy to get the rotor on. when this wheel centering flange is removed it is the wheel studs taking the force of hitting bumps or potholes, I am sure you got that part though. in the end, if it works out and you are concerned about the impact forces, you could grab a couple of hubs and axles and have them machined to fit. its a good idea to keep one of your old rotors with the new wheel pattern so it's easy to mark a new rotor.
nice pics an progress. keep on postin. soon you'll driving. |
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