Torque converter dilemma

[Larry S]

In my 69 C10, I have 6.0 lq4 built to around 450 hp with 4l80e. I just had it rebuilt w shift kit. Cam manufacturer recommends a 3200 stall. Its going to be a daily driver but I want power upon demand.

My transmission builder recommends FTI converter.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fti-srls40082

My engine builder says summit converters are perfect for my build.
Check out this page from Summit Racing https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-700342

The summit is less expensive. I dont want to sacrifice quality or waste $ either. Id love to hear first hand knowledge of these.

Thanks in advance.
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[Rickysnickers]

I have an FTI in my 700r4. It's been flawless. It's a lockup style and is a 2800 rpm stall unit. I've had it for about two years or so.

[Larry S]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

I have an FTI in my 700r4. It's been flawless. It's a lockup style and is a 2800 rpm stall unit. I've had it for about two years or so.

Thank you!
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[1971Stepside]

I have the Circle D 3200 stall in my Lq4/4L80e. Power is there immediately. I need to take the 2nd gear lockup out of the programming but otherwise it is perfect.

[Larry S]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

I have the Circle D 3200 stall in my Lq4/4L80e. Power is there immediately. I need to take the 2nd gear lockup out of the programming but otherwise it is perfect.

Thanks.
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[LS short box]

I've used Yank and Circle billet torque converters with great results. FTI has a good rep over on LS1tech.com.
One thing I have the tuner do programming wise is not go into 4th or lock up the converter until at least 40-45 mph. Keeps from lugging the engine.

[Larry S]

Originally Posted by LS short box

I've used Yank and Circle billet torque converters with great results. FTI has a good rep over on LS1tech.com.
One thing I have the tuner do programming wise is not go into 4th or lock up the converter until at least 40-45 mph. Keeps from lugging the engine.

👍
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[Ziegelsteinfaust]

In my experience gear ratio is just as important as torque converter stall. As in total to the package. Especially if you have heavy rim, and tire package. A vehicle is a series of comprises, and components to get the most of ones desires. How ever you stack it.

Anything over 2500 rpm will allow the engine to idle perfectly fine, and sometimes as low as 2000 for a performance cam. My 1971 LT1 cammed 350 I built ran perfectly fine with a 2000 rpm stall, and would idle steady after 1/2 mile of driving in the morning. Mind you it only gets to about 40 here on the coldest nights. Can't remember how any of my cammed engines did in the snow or sub 30 degree weather. I did take a few of them places in winter so it couldn't of been to bad to make me remember. Due to the pain.

In 07 I got a GMC rcsb with a 4.8, full bolt on's, 2500 roughly stall converter, and 4.56 gears. A friend at work had a extended cab with a 5.3, and was *****en about loss of power, and mpg when he added 22's from 16's. So i told him get some gears, and suggested 4.11's as they were a better balance for him. After some arguing I told him come over, and let's put them on my truck. You will see the difference. He did, and he went with 4.33's as to split the difference.

My 93 LT1 383 with a bigger smog legal cam has a 2500rpm non lock up converter, and 4.88 gears. It would be ideal for most people with 4.11 gears. I can get away with the non lock up because of my gear ratio.

Lastly. Some people like loose converters, and some don't. A few people I know thought my set up was mad till I gave them a ride. It works, and revs up nice. Yes it is obviously not for everyone, and is definitely hard edged. Yet it works very well, and my engine drives fine. Besides my octane issues, but other then that. It does good hwy mpg, and no over heating going 75/80 for 100 miles.