Well, I got more questions

[GOPAPA]

What business is there out there that does sand blasting or what ever it takes to clean up the undercarriage of my truck.. it is dirty and rusted looking all over underneath .. I want to have a sprayed on undercoating when cleaned up. and then put the new cat and muffler and tail pipes on

Do places like muffler hut sand blast also ?
I can think of brake lines and all the open places under the motor that sandblasting wouldn't be good in those areas .
What are other things that should not be hit with a sandblaster

[kipps]

Personally, I would go ahead and install the new exhaust now.

Once the truck is assembled, put it on a lift(ideally outdoors!) and powerwash the bottom side thoroughly. Use the most vicious turbo nozzle you can, and you'll dislodge a lot of the rust. Try to avoid hitting the wiring and any seals(oil-pan, etc) with the powerwasher at close range.

Once that's done, and the truck has dried out, spray it down with fluid film. Repeat the fluid film treatment every November. The fluid film is a wax/oil mixture that forms a gummy oily layer over everything. It's not permanent, and can be washed off if you need to service something. Fluid film does fine over light surface rust. It doesn't trap moisture in that rust like some other products do.

Do not use a rubberized undercoat! Those trap moisture and salt against the metal, and can frequently make the rusting issue worse. Rubber undercoating can theoretically work on perfectly clean metal, but the chances of getting your frame and components that clean are nil.

[Corts60]

Originally Posted by kipps

Personally, I would go ahead and install the new exhaust now.

Once the truck is assembled, put it on a lift(ideally outdoors!) and powerwash the bottom side thoroughly. Use the most vicious turbo nozzle you can, and you'll dislodge a lot of the rust. Try to avoid hitting the wiring and any seals(oil-pan, etc) with the powerwasher at close range.

Once that's done, and the truck has dried out, spray it down with fluid film. Repeat the fluid film treatment every November. The fluid film is a wax/oil mixture that forms a gummy oily layer over everything. It's not permanent, and can be washed off if you need to service something. Fluid film does fine over light surface rust. It doesn't trap moisture in that rust like some other products do.

Do not use a rubberized undercoat! Those trap moisture and salt against the metal, and can frequently make the rusting issue worse. Rubber undercoating can theoretically work on perfectly clean metal, but the chances of getting your frame and components that clean are nil.

X2. I prefer Boeshield T9, but same theory as fluid film.

[LT7A]

I agree. Pressure wash in lieu of sandblasting. You can get a mild acid wash from Napa, meant for cleaning big rigs and that will take off most surface rust, but you will want to spend some quality time again with the pressure washer to make sure to get all of the acid washed away. After that, your truck is nice enough that spending a couple of afternoons under there with some Rust-Oleum paint would be worthwhile. The only places I would put rubberized undercoating are in the wheel wells and the sheet metal bottom of the cab. But you need to have them clean and dry and have the rust treated first. There are a few different rust neutralizers that act as a primer when cured. Rust Mort is one of them.

[GOPAPA]

Originally Posted by kipps

Personally, I would go ahead and install the new exhaust now.

Once the truck is assembled, put it on a lift(ideally outdoors!) and powerwash the bottom side thoroughly. Use the most vicious turbo nozzle you can, and you'll dislodge a lot of the rust. Try to avoid hitting the wiring and any seals(oil-pan, etc) with the powerwasher at close range.

Once that's done, and the truck has dried out, spray it down with fluid film. Repeat the fluid film treatment every November. The fluid film is a wax/oil mixture that forms a gummy oily layer over everything. It's not permanent, and can be washed off if you need to service something. Fluid film does fine over light surface rust. It doesn't trap moisture in that rust like some other products do.

Do not use a rubberized undercoat! Those trap moisture and salt against the metal, and can frequently make the rusting issue worse. Rubber undercoating can theoretically work on perfectly clean metal, but the chances of getting your frame and components that clean are nil.

Originally Posted by Corts60

X2. I prefer Boeshield T9, but same theory as fluid film.

Originally Posted by LT7A

I agree. Pressure wash in lieu of sandblasting. You can get a mild acid wash from Napa, meant for cleaning big rigs and that will take off most surface rust, but you will want to spend some quality time again with the pressure washer to make sure to get all of the acid washed away. After that, your truck is nice enough that spending a couple of afternoons under there with some Rust-Oleum paint would be worthwhile. The only places I would put rubberized undercoating are in the wheel wells and the sheet metal bottom of the cab. But you need to have them clean and dry and have the rust treated first. There are a few different rust neutralizers that act as a primer when cured. Rust Mort is one of them.

Great feed back guys , I have a power washer that I do my cedar fences with it is buried in my shed and not sure what the lbs per what ever it is ,, It should work ,shouldnt it? I can jack it up on blocks I have that are around 10 inches tall , put under the tires, and beings my truck is a 4/4 gives me a bit more height ..the truck is aprox. 18" off ground which both blocks and truck give me around 28 inches ,, I would have to lay down to spray it ,, rain clothes ,mask and hoody I guess .

[MJN]

Get yourself a Tyvek suit if you're going to pressure wash, that stuff goes everywhere.
https://www.amazon.com/Disposable-Du...15012405&psc=1

Used to steam clean machines and these were a lifesaver from getting soaked and then trying to get grease and oil out of clothes. Just toss it when you're done. They work great for sandblasting too, with tall boots so that the leg cuff is below the top of the boot.

[old Rusty C10]

i dont know if you have an Eastwood store near you but i bought a sandblaster from there and media for about $200 . I removed the brake and fuel lines and did it all myself If you are replacing the exhaust, cut it off and throw some rags in the pipes to avoid stuff backflowing in.. When i did my truck i bought a new brake line kit from inline tube, made my own steel fuel line blasted everything and POR 15ed everything
You will however need a good compressor it all depends on what equipment you have and how much to put into it.. otherwise look up sand or soda blasting in the yellow pages there are services but youll probably spend 4-5 hundred dollars on the service

[hatzie]

Northern tool or Harbor Freight.
If you take a look at the pressure pot blasters and you have a welder you can fab one out of a 20 lb propane tank in a few hours.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...duct_200693483

This is how to fix the clogging.

Harbor Freight Sandblaster - The Comprehensive...

[GOPAPA]

Originally Posted by old Rusty C10

i dont know if you have an Eastwood store near you but i bought a sandblaster from there and media for about $200 . I removed the brake and fuel lines and did it all myself If you are replacing the exhaust, cut it off and throw some rags in the pipes to avoid stuff backflowing in.. When i did my truck i bought a new brake line kit from inline tube, made my own steel fuel line blasted everything and POR 15ed everything
You will however need a good compressor it all depends on what equipment you have and how much to put into it.. otherwise look up sand or soda blasting in the yellow pages there are services but youll probably spend 4-5 hundred dollars on the service

That's another good Idea,,,thx Bob

[blazer2007]

I like sandblasters but that sand gets everywhere.

[hatzie]

Sure does. I wear a hood with lead shot sewed into the extended collar and a set of Tyvek PJs.
You want some kind of positive filtered airflow into the hood so the face mask doesn't fog over and you aren't breathing the dust. A clean shop vac with a diverter valve to bleed off some of the pressure would do. The other way to do it would be an additional hose from the air compressor. Compressor air tastes funny tho.