It's my turn, 47 S10 build

[Cautrell05]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

i'm a huge personal fan of this style of torque arm for leaf's, i run the same basic thing on my YJ off road and it's been doing great work while being BEAT on for years. only difference in mine is that the bushing welded to the crossmember on the jeep is a JohnyJoint style spherical ball to allow more articulation. but that's obviously not a problem for your truck.

I think the kit initially planned on the heim being on the front end of the arm for just that reason. Ya, articulation isn't really a concern. It does it's job though. It surprisingly hooks up really well. I want to get it on scales at some point just to see how I did but regardless of how hard I wail on it there is no sign of wheel hop. It just launches straight and goes.
Also, the transmission isn't happy about that fact lol

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by Cautrell05

Also, the transmission isn't happy about that fact lol

[HAULIN' IT]

As I mentioned in my previous post, Im real impressed with some of the ways you worked around & made things work (Frame spread, Rack, gas & brake linkage, ect. ect.) Love it!

As has been mentioned, there is in many cases: "No such thing as overbuilt" so Id like to bring up a couple items that would greatly improve your rack installation.
First, The tabs you have made that the rack is mounted to. There is a great deal of opposite force (with a fair amount of leverage) going on every time you turn the wheel...working on those bolts 6" or so back. A single plate made (even out of 1/4") that profiled the shape, straight out, then around the inboard area of the bushing say at a 30* angle with a big inboard radius back to the crossmember, out at 30* to the other bushing & then straight back...making like a reinforced "C" would eliminate the Two independent "sticks" working hard on the back bolts. If one of those back bolts gets tired of the force & snaps, things could get NOT good in a hurry. This couldnt happen with a single plate. Same mounting system, same bolts but a MUCH better outcome. With a bit of creativity (which you sure have), you could add a couple more bolts/nuts in the center up through the crossmember as well. Maybe now cut a smaller plate (even out of 3/16") to "fill in" the area Im talking about between your existing brackets?

Likewise, the rack mounted in single shear on the bolts looks like it could be improved on rather easily. If you profiled a 3 sided "gusset" & welded those to the frame sticking out (I realize the Left side looks to be a bit of a challenge with the tubes there) with a hole in it would keep the saw motion from happening vertically in the bolts. Again, rather light material, say 1/8" (think about all thicker the original Ranger/Explorer tabs/ears were) would make a huge difference & wouldnt get in the way of your needed "down & out" on the rack to remove/install. The bolts could even be dropped down through then for even more added safety. Just thought Id bring up a couple things rolling around in my head. Do with it as you see fit. Take Care & Keep us posted on the progress, Lorne

[Cautrell05]

Just a couple pictures showing what I have for tire clearance out back with the 275s and 7-in wheels. plus a wide angle of vehicles waiting to go through the shop. The GTO is ready to go home.

[Cautrell05]

Thanks for the response, and I welcome any input throughout the build. In regards to the rack mounts, there's a lot that hasn't been shown yet. The four bolts you see in the bottom picture holding the bottom straps up are for mockup purposes. Once I got it in the shop here this past summer those got fully well the to the bottom of the cross member all the way around. And there's also two short angled braces welded in behind the rack going up to the crossmember to give it some support. I'm kicking myself because I didn't take more pictures at the time. The plans are that once I finalize my AC compressor mount there's going to be another ear that welds in above the rack so the bolts are in double shear, and then the big chunky front edges that are hanging off the front are going to get rounded and be mounting ears for the back edge of a skid plate/brace that runs forward somewhere up by the sway bar mount. I'm not totally sure on that yet. The skid plate is needed for my gravel roads. This style of rack as opposed to the mustang 2 rack mounts pretty much in line with the lower control arm bolts, and the county likes to windrow gravel when they maintain our road. If I do hit an unexpected spot I really don't want to go and plow gravel with the rack. The double shear mounts on the bolts realistically is enough to hold it in place cuz that's how Ford did it with the rangers originally. Having the front edge mounted to some braces with a skid plate on it should just help make it more or less bulletproof.