Disc brake conversions 1972 k10

[MDFarms]

Could I get your ideas and thoughts on rear brake conversions? Worth it or not? Went to get rear drums for my 1972 and some drums are available and some are not according to size. Thought about disc brake conversion in past but not much since. Wahst the options for E-Brake when converting? I know its still available but not sure whats involved?

On front calipers is it possible to get GM rebuilds? Or stamped GM housings?

Who make the best overall conversion? I see Captain D's on 2 wheel drives not sure if he has 4x4's?

I know distrubution valve needs to be changed and maybe different booster?

Any threads with conversion pictures on 4x4's

As always you help is greatly appreciated!

[MDFarms]

Borrowed from Blazer side, has anyone tried this set up?

http://www.littleshopmfg.com/

[tdangle]

IMO rear disc brake conversions are not really worth it. 70% of your stopping power is the front brakes. I did this years ago on a 91 mustang GT and didn't notice any improvement. I do agree that disc brakes are less complicated than drum and probably cheaper to. make, thus this is the real reason all manufacturers are now going 4 wheel disc on vehicles. Also a marketing plus.

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by tdangle

IMO rear disc brake conversions are not really worth it. 70% of your stopping power is the front brakes. I did this years ago on a 91 mustang GT and didn't notice any improvement.

I agree....here's my thought
The factory drum brakes, in good condition and adjusted properly, will lock up the rear wheels....
so adding disc will simply lock them up quicker....
then if you adjust the proportioning valve (if you have an adjustable one) to prevent rear wheel lockup, you're right back to the front brakes doing most of the stopping.
Spend the money elsewhere...

[jocko]

If you can get replacement drums, I’d stick with drums, perf difference minimal to non-existent. But I am assuming you’re asking in case you can’t find drums, not because you specifically want rear disks “just because” - is that the case? The above system looks like a pretty nice install. One would think that as popular as these trucks are that there would be more basic replacement parts than upgrade kits. I ran into this same problem when I did rear brakes on my 71 w/D60. Felt like I won the lottery when I found the right drums, new.

[57taskforce]

I don’t have any 1/2 ton experience but I used the all the parts, e brake and all from a late model AAM 10.5” 14 bolt to convert the corporate 10.5” 14 bolt going under my K20. It is not direct bolt on. It required custom make backing plate mounts and welding but the end result is a setup that uses readily available off the shelf parts with a proven OE Ebrake setup. The ebrake is the biggest draw back to the aftermarket kits. The eldorado calipers they use really don’t work very well. I’ve seen people use the 1/2 ton AAM setup on the old 10-12 bolts but I haven’t done it first hand, these can be done with junkyard parts in most cases. My stuff all came off a used axle. Obviously pads and maybe rotors you’ll probably want to replace but both my calipers were still good. I’m sure it’s probably a little easier than my swap because you don’t have to deal with the hubs that the 14 bolt has. In short OE is the only way I would go as far a disk brake swaps go. PM me if you have any questions I can help you with.

One other place that disks do out perform is heat dissipation, they don’t fade as much when they get hot.

[MikeB]

I agree rear discs will do little if anything for you compared to drum brakes in good condition. For drums, check out Rock Auto here:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+hub,drum,1744

I would not get the "economy" version because it doesn't look like it's finned.