Clutch fork/linkage assembly questions

[R.O.B.]

67 C20, 350 v8, 4sp.

As you can see by the picture, I don't have the right stuff, I have a piece of all thread that should be a threaded rod. So, I can buy a rod, and from pictures on the internet I also need what looks like a spacer wedge.

Question: once I put the rod and spacer through the fork, what is on the other side of the fork? I mean, It has to allow it to pivot, so just a nut doesn't make sense in my head. Also, which hole in the fork? The small inner or the larger oblong outer?

I also saw in another thread something about a long and short throw out bearing? My current one looks like a short, yet it could be wrong as I've got barely any pedal. I've got the 3 finger diaphragm.

[RustyPile]

Looking at the LMC website.. Here's a picture of the rod and related components.
https://www.lmctruck.com/1967-72-che...clutch-linkage

[R.O.B.]

I saw that, but doesn't anything attach to the other side of #3? And also which hole in the fork?

[RustyPile]

Nothing attaches to the other side. All components that make up the assembly are in the picture. Only thing left out is the fork itself. The rod and pushrod nut (wedge) goes in the outside hole. When the clutch freeplay is properly adjusted, everything stays in place.

You have the wrong pushrod.. It needs to have a "nub" on the end that fits into the fork. Your fork has a lot of wear in the area where it contacts the throwout bearing.. I'd suggest you replace it.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by R.O.B.

67 C20, 350 v8, 4sp.

As you can see by the picture, I don't have the right stuff, I have a piece of all thread that should be a threaded rod. So, I can buy a rod, and from pictures on the internet I also need what looks like a spacer wedge.

Question: once I put the rod and spacer through the fork, what is on the other side of the fork? I mean, It has to allow it to pivot, so just a nut doesn't make sense in my head. Also, which hole in the fork? The small inner or the larger oblong outer?

I also saw in another thread something about a long and short throw out bearing? My current one looks like a short, yet it could be wrong as I've got barely any pedal. I've got the 3 finger diaphragm.

No such thing as a "3 finger diaphragm" clutch.. Daiphragm type has several flat fingers that almost touch each other.. The diaphragm is the "spring" that provides the clamping force. It requires a long bearing.. The 3 finger type uses several coil springs to provide clamping force. It requires a short bearing.

[R.O.B.]

I guess I'm using the wrong terminology, this is the clutch I have:

[R.O.B.]

Also, thanks for the replys.

If I use the inner hole, will that engage/disengage the clutch faster? Less pedal travel?

[RustyPile]

That's a Long (old school design reference) type clutch. Sometimes referred to heavy duty. I wouldn't suggest using the inner hole.. That makes for more bearing travel, stiffer pedal movement, and often leads to linkage binding.. "Faster" isn't a reason either..

[geezer#99]

It’s a borg and beck, not a long style.
With diaphragm clutches you have a flat finger (long tob) and a raised finger (short tob).
Look here for rods, forks, springs etc.



https://4speedconversions-com.3dcartstores.com/

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

It’s a borg and beck, not a long style.
With diaphragm clutches you have a flat finger (long tob) and a raised finger (short tob).

Borg and Beck is a brand, not design or style.. You're partially correct tho.. Back in the day some people referred to all spring type clutches as "Borg and Beck". There were several clutch manufacturers - Borg and Beck, Precision, Ford, GM, among others. Some after market brands were Zoom, Lakewood, along with hundreds of reman companies. Borg and Beck also makes diaphragm type clutches.

Diaphragm clutches were the scourge of race cars in the '50s and early '60s. During a full throttle 8K RPM "speed shift", the diaphragm would turn wrong side out and the pedal would stick to the floor. Often times this resulted in a clutch, flywheel, or engine explosion. A friend of mine lost his right foot to one of those explosions.

[BigBird05]

the picture that you posted is of a pressure plate. The clutch disk is round and flat. Usually, 10 or 11 inches. The type of pressure plate that you are using determines which length of throw out bearing you will need.

[geezer#99]

Borg and beck is also a style.
As is a diaphragm and long style.
And don’t forget the b&b/long style.
They’re all recognized by their finger style, not by who makes them.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by R.O.B.

I saw that, but doesn't anything attach to the other side of #3? And also which hole in the fork?

In the Stock World, the end of the lower clutch rod just sticks out of the hole in the clutch fork. I have a threaded end on the end on mine on a '71 GMC Jimmy 4x4, with a nut securing it so the end does not come out. I'm guessing it was the PO's mod. I kept it.

[sfont66]

This is the way my 72 C10 with 350 and sm465 4 speed was set up before I pulled everything for a Ls and T56 magnum.
Not sure if this set up was correct for stock, but maybe the pics will help.

[geezer#99]

The big spring is supposed to be hooked up on the frame rail up near the z-bar.
They way that one is would pull the tob onto the fingers all the time.

[1970 CST Short Wide]

Originally Posted by sfont66

This is the way my 72 C10 with 350 and sm465 4 speed was set up before I pulled everything for a Ls and T56 magnum.
Not sure if this set up was correct for stock, but maybe the pics will help.

Looks like all the right stuff. Want to sell it?. PM me so we don’t break rules
Thanks

[pjmoreland]

Here are the pivot ball and retaining spring for attaching the fork to the bellhousing. They're items 6 & 7 here:

https://www.lmctruck.com/1967-72-che...tch-components

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by sfont66

This is the way my 72 C10 with 350 and sm465 4 speed was set up before I pulled everything for a Ls and T56 magnum.
Not sure if this set up was correct for stock, but maybe the pics will help.

Looks like you have that retaining nut too. Yours is the only one beside mine I've seen like it.

[R.O.B.]

Thanks everyone, also looks like I'm missing the retaining spring for the ball into the fork. Man, sometimes I wonder how this truck even worked with how messed up most things are on it.