‘72 Front suspension info

[C3pilot]

Looking for info on front end rebuild for a ‘72 C10 2wd. Currently it has original disc with power brakes. Is there a reason to go with a newer style front cross member/suspension/steering/brakes? Motor is currently out, fenders and core support are removed too so now is the time to clean up and rebuild it. Not looking for the ultimate driving machine but something that handles well and is tight. Not looking to lower the truck much if any.

Any input would be appreciated!
Thx C3pilot

[SCOTI]

This is a subjective question. Is there a need to use the later 73-up stuff? No, but...

Some people want to install the OE style 73-up rubber bushings to get a smother ride resulting from the thicker rubber bushing/metal shell housing style of bushing.

Others swap to the 73-up stuff for the ability to use Poly bushings for 'better' performance using that same metal shell housing style of bushing.

The original 72 bushings are rubber lined steel & designed to pivot via the internal threads. I like to think of the OE 63-72 design as a budget Delrin set-up (it pivots freely & is not all cushy).

So, to answer your question is to follow the ride quality you desire.

[C3pilot]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

This is a subjective question. Is there a need to use the later 73-up stuff? No, but...

Some people want to install the OE style 73-up rubber bushings to get a smother ride resulting from the thicker rubber bushing/metal shell housing style of bushing.

Others swap to the 73-up stuff for the ability to use Poly bushings for 'better' performance using that same metal shell housing style of bushing.

The original 72 bushings are rubber lined steel & designed to pivot via the internal threads. I like to think of the OE 63-72 design as a budget Delrin set-up (it pivots freely & is not all cushy).

So, to answer your question is to follow the ride quality you desire.

Thank you for the info! Don’t think I’ll be making any changes right now but it’s good to know what my options are.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by C3pilot

Thank you for the info! Don’t think I’ll be making any changes right now but it’s good to know what my options are.

Fresh ball joints, inner/outer tie rod ends, Idler arm, Pitman arm, & fresh steering box make a big difference. Add some good shocks, a HD sway bar, the Caster Mod (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...ght=caster+mod), & an alignment using current specs and it will be like a completely different (modern) drive.

[C3pilot]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Fresh ball joints, inner/outer tie rod ends, Idler arm, Pitman arm, & fresh steering box make a big difference. Add some good shocks, a HD sway bar, the Caster Mod (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...ght=caster+mod), & an alignment using current specs and it will be like a completely different (modern) drive.

Good reading on that caster mod, I wasn’t familiar with it. What is the result of doing it? I would guess increased stability but slightly less maneuverability?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by C3pilot

Good reading on that caster mod, I wasn’t familiar with it. What is the result of doing it? I would guess increased stability but slightly less maneuverability?

Just a modern steering 'feel/experience' vs. what was targeted back in the 60's.
My CC 1-ton dually drives like a 1/2 ton pick-up.

[cwcarpenter98]

I just did the caster mod on my truck. Made it drive straight going 70 on I20. I no longer get pushed around by big rigs

Don't be like the previous owner of my truck though. He put the upper control arms on the wrong sides at some point. That's really bad for your alignment, and with the caster mod, you won't be able to get it lined up

[C3pilot]

Originally Posted by cwcarpenter98

I just did the caster mod on my truck. Made it drive straight going 70 on I20. I no longer get pushed around by big rigs

Don't be like the previous owner of my truck though. He put the upper control arms on the wrong sides at some point. That's really bad for your alignment, and with the caster mod, you won't be able to get it lined up

UCAs on backwards!! Well…I probably shouldn’t point fingers I too have done plenty of bone head stuff.

PO of the truck I’m working on had a small chain wrapped around the engine frame mount and the motor mount, that was totally shot and no bolt, on the engine. No telling how much jumping around that engine was doing when it ran?!?!

[C3pilot]

So an update, got it all torn apart. Ball joints are definitely shot but we’re still tight on the control arms. 3 of the 4 control arm shafts were definitely ready to be replaced but not damaged. The 4th, LCA passenger side rear bushing had worn through and the control arm shaft had made contact with the LCA. Looks like the hole is now out of round.

So it looks like a replacement LCA is now needed. I’ll be putting up a want add on the parts board shortly.

C3pilot

[C3pilot]

So I’ve been reading more about up grading to 73-87 control arms/bushings. Since I have all my ‘72 new ball joints and cross shafts ready to go can I get a 73-87 LCA and put my ‘72 cross shafts in the 73-87 LCA?

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by C3pilot

So I’ve been reading more about up grading to 73-87 control arms/bushings. Since I have all my ‘72 new ball joints and cross shafts ready to go can I get a 73-87 LCA and put my ‘72 cross shafts in the 73-87 LCA?

No.
The 73-87 arms take a different cross shaft with rubber bushings.
But you CAN put your ‘72 balljoints in the later control arms.