Stock trans line vs braided aftermarket

[kev2809]

what's the better option for trans lines? I can get 2 new Dorman lines from O'Reilly for about 50 bucks. then I would just need the adapter fittings for my radiator.

or would a pre-made braided line kit be better?

option 1 seems the cheapest imo. what do you guys think?

truck is a 67 suburban. 5.3 4l60e...85 c20 big block radiator

[LS short box]

On my LS swaps I use -6 SS braided lines. Looks like you have a 4L60E so make sure you get the correct trans case fittings. I don't do the pre-made lines. I make them up as needed. Never had one fail.
I doubt the stock hard lines would fit without cutting, bending and reflaring.

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by LS short box

On my LS swaps I use -6 SS braided lines. Looks like you have a 4L60E so make sure you get the correct trans case fittings. I don't do the pre-made lines. I make them up as needed. Never had one fail.
I doubt the stock hard lines would fit without cutting, bending and reflaring.

well the shape seems almost the same and couldve sworn i seen someone use em on here but cant find it. i found a pre made kit but the length seems way too short (braided lines). think one line was 55" and the other 58". both are way too short. what fittings did you use for the transmission an fittings? i believe my big block radiator looks to have 1/2" threaded fittings but cant seem to find the radiator info anymore that mentions the threads.

from what i found searching on here, the fitting in the trans is 1/4" nps thread. the radiator looks like 1/2" flare. so i would need a 1/4" nps an6 on the trans side and an6 with a 1/2" flare end?

[LS short box]

I think NPS is correct it's not NPT.
They make all kinds of -6 adapters. I go over to the LS1tech.com web site and ask the same questions

[kev2809]

I put together a fittings list from summit...and a 20 foot roll of -6 an I found on Amazon. total is about $150. yikes. these fitting add up quick!

[bigmoe]

Originally Posted by kev2809

I put together a fittings list from summit...and a 20 foot roll of -6 an I found on Amazon. total is about $150. yikes. these fitting add up quick!

Ya it's a trade off. The flexible lines are much neater and easier to run but it's more money.

[kev2809]

ya I think it might be worth it though. I went out there earlier and I do have the lower rad line from the donor truck but the bends where it goes to the radiator looks like it will need some creative bending. looks like braided is the way to go.

I'm attaching a fitting list and want to make sure I got it down...

[kev2809]

this 1st pic is the 4l60e fittings. the top one is the 2 to screw right into the trans. the 2nd fitting is the 45s that screw into them that get crimped to the hose

[kev2809]

these are the radiator side fittings. I'm thinking my radiator has the 1/2" thread size. the fitting in the middle are the 2 straight fittings that will screw into the radiator. the top 90 fitting will get crimped to my hose and thread onto to that. and the last fitting will get crimped and thread on the bottom radiator fitting. this last one might be switched to a 45 so it will tuck into the frame better.

any thoughts?

[Davidf]

Not sure this will help the OP. But, I used the 2001 Tahoe donor transmission lines in my build...

Had to slightly modify a few of the bends to better clear the crossmember and not get pinched between it and the oil pan. I cut off the rubber hoses at the radiator ends and made new aluminum lines to connect to the radiator. I joined old and new with compression fittings just ahead of the harmonic damper pulley.

[kev2809]

thats a great idea didn't thinking of using old and new....

I went with the braided setup. super pricey too. when I ordered my fittings I also ordered the 2 for the fuel rail in the back of the motor just to get the free shipping from summit, so it was a little more.

when I get this in I'll report back to make sure these numbers are right for the next guy. it gets so confusing looking through all those fittings. there's good info here on the site but I couldn't find 1 that explains it to where you can go off and know what you need to look for.... or maybe I'm just dumb lol.

[TrybalRage]

I did braided just because I didn't want to have to worry about fitment and snaking the bent lines through.

[a.c.ward]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077BBMW8R...v_cv_lig_dp_it

this is the kit that I order from amazon and use on all my builds. PTFE is better for trans than rubber, as a bonus it comes with more than enough fittings and is very easy to assemble

[kev2809]

you know, I went out there messing with the 1 line I had and said the same thing lol. I think had I pulled the radiator back off it would've been a ton easier snaking it in. but I think David's option is a cheap way and even easier if they are cut where they are snaked through the crossmember, then new lines from that point

[Rich84]

I used factory lines everywhere I could. It was really just minor tweaks here and there. I also used the factory fuel lines mated to rubber on the frame to the tank. It's been about 7 years now. No problems yet.

[A1971Blazer]

I was able to salvage the factory lines and brackets from the donor car that will go all the way up past the front cross member.
I have the -6 AN sweat-on fittings to connect from there to the radiator tank...may also plumb in an aux cooler....

[Davidf]

Originally Posted by Rich84

I used factory lines everywhere I could. It was really just minor tweaks here and there. I also used the factory fuel lines mated to rubber on the frame to the tank. It's been about 7 years now. No problems yet.

I did the same...factory fuel lines all the way to the factory fuel filter mounted to the frame rail just aft of the trans crossmember. You can just make out the fuel lines at the firewall. The trans lines shown are prior to cutting off the ends just behind the front crossmember.

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