Remove key in run and acc position

[jeff74]

I'm guessing I shouldn't be able to remove the key with the truck running..? Other than that the ignition switch works fine, but it looks like someone has removed, or tried to remove it before.

[Stocker]

Welcome to the best board on the 'net, bar none!

I bought my truck in 1975, and the ignition switch has been like that for as long as I can remember. Even with a new key. I just figured it was a worn lock cylinder and never bothered to fix it.

[Getter-Done]

My 84 does the same thing.

[jeff74]

Originally Posted by Stocker

Welcome to the best board on the 'net, bar none!

I bought my truck in 1975, and the ignition switch has been like that for as long as I can remember. Even with a new key. I just figured it was a worn lock cylinder and never bothered to fix it.

Thanks, I've been around for a little while with the same username, but my account seemed to be deleted when my paid subscription ran out.

Good to know, my key is pretty worn, was wondering if that was the reason.

[LockDoc]

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It kinda depends on the cuts in the key. If they start off high at the bow and get progressively lower at the tip that will cause that. If the tumblers were replaced and a new key cut to factory specs it should cure it until they wear a little bit, and then it will start doing it again. Most of the time though it is just because the key and wafers are worn excessively.

If you have a new key made by duplication it won't help because you are duplicating a worn out key. You have to have a locksmith cut a new key to factory specifications on a code cutting machine.

LockDoc

[CG]

My one ton does that. Back when I was in to tri five chevs seems like they all did that. Loc Doc will chime in and have the best answer.

BTW you dont get deleted just because a subscription expires. There must be some other problem, Im thinking computer wise, not malice.

EDIT too slow ... locdoc beat me

[LockDoc]

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Here is a picture of a badly worn key. This key would probably slide out of the lock in any position because the tumblers would be worn just as bad. The picture below it is the same exact key cut to factory specs.

LockDoc

[jeff74]

Thanks everyone for the good info.

Is there a number on the ignition switch I could use to get a new key made? I just have one key and it seems to be original

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by jeff74

Thanks everyone for the good info.

Is there a number on the ignition switch I could use to get a new key made? I just have one key and it seems to be original

Yes, usually there is. I have come across a few of them that didn't have one but not many. It will be stamped into the side of the lock cylinder.

Just in case you are not familiar with removing the lock cylinder....

Insert the key in the ignition and "gently" turn it as far to the left as it will go. Insert a straightened paper clip in the hole (the large ones work best) (or a small allen wrench, or torch tip cleaner), and push the release pin down (go easy here, it doesn't take much pressure at all) and turn the cylinder to the left a little more. As you turn the cylinder you have to remove the paper clip or it will bind in the hole. The cylinder should pull out. You should not have to force anything. It might help to spray a little penetrating oil into the key hole. If the key pulls out when you try to pull the cylinder out just use one of the small "O" ring picks or a piece of wire with a hook bent on the end of it to pull it out.

LockDoc
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[jeff74]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Yes, usually there is. I have come across a few of them that didn't have one but not many. It will be stamped into the side of the lock cylinder.

Just in case you are not familiar with removing the lock cylinder....

Insert the key in the ignition and "gently" turn it as far to the left as it will go. Insert a straightened paper clip in the hole (the large ones work best) (or a small allen wrench, or torch tip cleaner), and push the release pin down (go easy here, it doesn't take much pressure at all) and turn the cylinder to the left a little more. As you turn the cylinder you have to remove the paper clip or it will bind in the hole. The cylinder should pull out. You should not have to force anything. It might help to spray a little penetrating oil into the key hole. If the key pulls out when you try to pull the cylinder out just use one of the small "O" ring picks or a piece of wire with a hook bent on the end of it to pull it out.

LockDoc
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Thanks, I'm not familiar with removing the lock cylinder... I'll check that out

[67swb72klb]

I thought they all were supposed to do that..

[jeff74]

Originally Posted by 67swb72klb

I thought they all were supposed to do that..

I suppose it could come in handy ? Or not?

[Wrenchbender Ret]

The 56 I had you could even turn the switch on & start it with any key or screw driver.
George

[toolboxchev]

The benefit to this is you can leave your truck running (intelligence needed here) so you can go into the 7 Eleven and lock the door with the engine running so no one can grab your stuff on the seat.

Establishing a trust level environment is needed first, your results may vary.