New here, 68 with some questions

[cj847]

Hold up there sharp shooter! $5k won't do all that. You are probably looking at 2k for wheels/tires/mounting, 2k for front brakes/lowering and rear lowering kit + cheap shocks, $700-1k for axles. I know it is a running/driving restoration but.......

I bought a running driving older restoration and spent over 3k just getting it safe/reliable/comfortable. Without doing any visual modifications to it. If it just "sits around" you are probably going to need to replace some seals, rebuild the carb, change all the fluids, etc, etc.

I would recommend, (before any modifications):
1) A roadkill deluxe brake job (pull the drums, check for axle and slave cyl leaks, spray everything with brake clean, sand the shoes and drums a little, adjust them, inspect all lines and HOSES.
2) Thorough steering inspection. Replace parts as needed.
3) Check all fluids, probably go ahead and change the oil, and drain/replace the gas.
4) Inspect fuel system for leaks or cracked hoses. Replace as needed.
5) Inspect the cooling system for cracked or rotten hoses.
6) Start it and hope you don't have to rebuild the carb.
7) Drive it at least 100 miles. As stated, the tires are a concern, but I would drive them 100 miles (not exceeding 45-50mph).
8) Fix whatever falls off or doesn't work.
9) Use the remaining budget for your wheels/tires/brakes/ suspension.

Don't get me wrong, I'm excited for you and your Dad, I just want you to be able to have fun with it as soon as you get the good stuff on it.

[Steeveedee]

My take-

If you're going into the front end for disc brakes, save yourself some time and put in new springs and drop spindles. You'll have it all done in one shot. All those parts are coming off, anyway, right?

That's one sharp looking truck (just like everyone else is saying).

[wpsharpshooter]

Originally Posted by cj847

Hold up there sharp shooter! $5k won't do all that. You are probably looking at 2k for wheels/tires/mounting, 2k for front brakes/lowering and rear lowering kit + cheap shocks, $700-1k for axles. I know it is a running/driving restoration but.......

I bought a running driving older restoration and spent over 3k just getting it safe/reliable/comfortable. Without doing any visual modifications to it. If it just "sits around" you are probably going to need to replace some seals, rebuild the carb, change all the fluids, etc, etc.

I would recommend, (before any modifications):
1) A roadkill deluxe brake job (pull the drums, check for axle and slave cyl leaks, spray everything with brake clean, sand the shoes and drums a little, adjust them, inspect all lines and HOSES.
2) Thorough steering inspection. Replace parts as needed.
3) Check all fluids, probably go ahead and change the oil, and drain/replace the gas.
4) Inspect fuel system for leaks or cracked hoses. Replace as needed.
5) Inspect the cooling system for cracked or rotten hoses.
6) Start it and hope you don't have to rebuild the carb.
7) Drive it at least 100 miles. As stated, the tires are a concern, but I would drive them 100 miles (not exceeding 45-50mph).
8) Fix whatever falls off or doesn't work.
9) Use the remaining budget for your wheels/tires/brakes/ suspension.

Don't get me wrong, I'm excited for you and your Dad, I just want you to be able to have fun with it as soon as you get the good stuff on it.

I appreciate that..
1. Brakes were reworked last year
2. going to assess things while we have torn the suspension down
3. Carb was replaced last year as well
4. See #3
5. Im going to check that when truck is taken apart and will address any issues

[wpsharpshooter]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

My take-

If you're going into the front end for disc brakes, save yourself some time and put in new springs and drop spindles. You'll have it all done in one shot. All those parts are coming off, anyway, right?

That's one sharp looking truck (just like everyone else is saying).

Id like to find a kit that replaces everything.. Or piece a kit together to take care of it.

[indymachinist]

If you want a similar height or lower than it is you definitely want some type of rear shock relocator
Front relocators aren't a bad idea either, but probably less important. Especially if you use a drop spindle so the front isn't all spring drop.

[wpsharpshooter]

Originally Posted by indymachinist

If you want a similar height or lower than it is you definitely want some type of rear shock relocator
Front relocators aren't a bad idea either, but probably less important. Especially if you use a drop spindle so the front isn't all spring drop.

We are def going with drop spindles

[67C10Step]

wp,
Man, I wish you were closer as I'd love to see that truck in person and even lend a hand, if it was needed.

The rear is easy, comparatively speaking, to the front. I went through mine completely, new bushings, 4" progressive rate drop springs, shock relocation, adjustable trac bar, new bearings and seals in the rear end, and all new brakes and brake lines.

On the front I did the same but pieced it together. All Moog ball joints, tie rod ends, and bushings/cross shafts. Upgraded the U bolts on the lower A arms and installed 2-1/2" drop spindles. Again, all new brake lines and going from four wheel, manual drum to front disc/rear drum power brakes I had to install the booster/master/proportioning block to go with it.

I would suggest you go over the truck in fine detail and make yourself a list. When I started I wasn't going to replace all my hard brake lines but quickly found out that wasn't going to be an option.

Been looking at any tire/wheel combos and found any that you like yet?

[wpsharpshooter]

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

wp,
Man, I wish you were closer as I'd love to see that truck in person and even lend a hand, if it was needed.

The rear is easy, comparatively speaking, to the front. I went through mine completely, new bushings, 4" progressive rate drop springs, shock relocation, adjustable trac bar, new bearings and seals in the rear end, and all new brakes and brake lines.

On the front I did the same but pieced it together. All Moog ball joints, tie rod ends, and bushings/cross shafts. Upgraded the U bolts on the lower A arms and installed 2-1/2" drop spindles. Again, all new brake lines and going from four wheel, manual drum to front disc/rear drum power brakes I had to install the booster/master/proportioning block to go with it.

I would suggest you go over the truck in fine detail and make yourself a list. When I started I wasn't going to replace all my hard brake lines but quickly found out that wasn't going to be an option.

Been looking at any tire/wheel combos and found any that you like yet?

Im figuring we will need to replace the brake lines.. Im going to try and scour the internet today and see what, if any full kits I can find. Ideally getting most of the parts we are needing in one shot. as far as wheels. Im not sure. The US mags look pretty good. But not locking in to anything right now. I believe he wants to go chrome. Or polished maybe. Something in 20's

[wpsharpshooter]

Also I have read that 20's will not fit on the front while being lowered without mods to the fenderwells.. is that correct?

[wpsharpshooter]

Also I have read that 20's will not fit on the front while being lowered without mods to the fenderwells.. is that correct?

[Accelo]

I personally have a terrible experience with pony parts. Avoid like the plague.
I suggest you attempt to call any company you want to purchase from before buying. I waited 45 min for a real person with Pony parts. Unacceptable.
Many vendors just want you to do ever

I prefer the smaller outfits.
Or one of the vendors on the board list.

click here for the current list of site supporting vendors.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showgroups.php

Some of my favorites;
Classic Bowties
Classic Heartbeat
PICKMUP
GMCPaul's

The quality of service, and parts, seems to be much better than the big guys.

That said;
I like 20's and have them on my truck. Zero offset seems to work great on my truck. 8" on the front and 9.5" on the back. My truck is lowered

[wpsharpshooter]

Originally Posted by Accelo

I personally have a terrible experience with pony parts. Avoid like the plague.
I suggest you attempt to call any company you want to purchase from before buying. I waited 45 min for a real person with Pony parts. Unacceptable.
Many vendors just want you to do ever

I prefer the smaller outfits.
Or one of the vendors on the board list.

click here for the current list of site supporting vendors.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showgroups.php

Some of my favorites;
Classic Bowties
Classic Heartbeat
PICKMUP
GMCPaul's

The quality of service, and parts, seems to be much better than the big guys.

That said;
I like 20's and have them on my truck. Zero offset seems to work great on my truck. 8" on the front and 9.5" on the back. My truck is lowered

The question im coming up with now is.. How low can I go without having to modify anything? (It appears maybe a 4/6 drop is about the cut off before drive-ability comes into play?) Im assuming I can order a conversion kit that has drop spindles and then order a separate kit for the suspension. I was initially thinking I was locked in to a 2 inch drop because of the spindles (yes Im slow), but It looks like I can pair that with pretty much any lowered suspension correct?

[wpsharpshooter]

Measured from ground to fenders. Front measures at 27 3/4 rear is at 28 1/4. anybody have an idea on what drop that equals to? or is close to?

[Accelo]

I believe 5 or 6" is all you can reasonably expect without notching the frame in the rear.

[wpsharpshooter]

Good news, Over the weekend, we pulled the bed cover out of the bed.. And I think I convinced him to lose it and have the bed painted and go with a new wood kit for the floor. Bought all the stuff for the disc conversion, and the suspension. Now we are eyeing some wheels. Going to remove the bed and clean up the frame while we are at it.

[68 C10 Driver]

Beautiful stepside, I like the color! I look forward to following your work!