Installing inner cowl

[rechinca]

As I get ready to install the complete inner cowl (this so far has been a learning experience), I have come across a couple of questions. After I get my plug welds done and the piece installed, do I need to or at least should I add seam sealer along the top edge? I don’t recall there being any from the factory, but it could be a reason they had rust in that area. Anyone else have experience with this repair and suggestions or thoughts?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by rechinca

As I get ready to install the complete inner cowl (this so far has been a learning experience), I have come across a couple of questions. After I get my plug welds done and the piece installed, do I need to or at least should I add seam sealer along the top edge? I don’t recall there being any from the factory, but it could be a reason they had rust in that area. Anyone else have experience with this repair and suggestions or thoughts?

I would use some in that area. It would be cheap insurance against leaks.

LockDoc

[rechinca]

Thanks Leon! Bought some 3M heavy bodied sealer as I will be doing the drip rails too before we get rain. Figured I’d just stock up!

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by rechinca

Thanks Leon! Bought some 3M heavy bodied sealer as I will be doing the drip rails too before we get rain. Figured I’d just stock up!

That should work.

LockDoc

[72c20customcamper]

Seal all the seams. And when you think your good to go, go over it again . I used single stage polyurethane on my cowl and brushed it in good and used the 3m high build self leveling on the 68s drip rail

[cj847]

I am trying to understand the sealing process for my cowl leaks on both sides. The main leaks are where the inner cowl meets the A pillar. I have cut an opening in the upper cowl so that I can get to this area. It does appear there was factory seam sealer there that has failed. I am guessing the issue was the "diverter" probably got clogged with leaves/debris 30 years ago keeping the area wet and funky. One of the leaks is at the joint of inner cowl, A pillar, and "diverter".
My question while contemplating the mess under my dash was what about the firewall to inner cowl? I don't see any evidence of seam sealer across this long seam. However, it appears obvious that it needs to be sealed.
What say you experts?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by cj847

I am trying to understand the sealing process for my cowl leaks on both sides. The main leaks are where the inner cowl meets the A pillar. I have cut an opening in the upper cowl so that I can get to this area. It does appear there was factory seam sealer there that has failed. I am guessing the issue was the "diverter" probably got clogged with leaves/debris 30 years ago keeping the area wet and funky. One of the leaks is at the joint of inner cowl, A pillar, and "diverter".
My question while contemplating the mess under my dash was what about the firewall to inner cowl? I don't see any evidence of seam sealer across this long seam. However, it appears obvious that it needs to be sealed.
What say you experts?

My answer would be the same as I recommended in post #2...

LockDoc

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by cj847

I am trying to understand the sealing process for my cowl leaks on both sides. The main leaks are where the inner cowl meets the A pillar. I have cut an opening in the upper cowl so that I can get to this area. It does appear there was factory seam sealer there that has failed. I am guessing the issue was the "diverter" probably got clogged with leaves/debris 30 years ago keeping the area wet and funky. One of the leaks is at the joint of inner cowl, A pillar, and "diverter".
My question while contemplating the mess under my dash was what about the firewall to inner cowl? I don't see any evidence of seam sealer across this long seam. However, it appears obvious that it needs to be sealed.
What say you experts?

I am no expert, yet with a leaking window covered by a tarp I can tell you this. If you plan to repair this area PROPERLY it is time to tear the truck apart and do a complete cab repair to get it fixed right the first time. I have seen many pictures of failures in cab repair.

[bry593]

Respect if you are doing inner cowl. That's a job.

Just so you know, the Loctite PL Roof and Flashing (Black polyurethane from Home Depot), works well for this application. Costs $8 a tube and is typically on the shelf.....

[Impact02]

You could also use panel bond and it will attach it and seal it all at one time

[dz1087]

I went to town with the 3M panel adhesive all over my weld areas in inner/outer cowl area. Didn't use the self leveling since it is really runny while setting up. That stuff did work like a champ on the drip rail, though.