To sway bar, or not?

[HwyStarJoe]

This is the first air bagged vehicle I've owned. '69 C10 Stepper.
2" drop spindles in front, mini C-notch rear.
Picture of rear (best pic I can get right now) at full drop.

I was thinking of installing front/rear sway bars. I haven't driven it much because I bought it when winter started. I don't know how much it leans or if it under steers yet. I drive it with the bags all the way down or very close to it.
Are they even necessary if I'm not auto-crossing or taking the exit ramps at 70? I don't see very much mention of sway bars on bagged suspensions doing a forum search.

Thanks

[The Rocknrod]

I wouldn't spend the bucks unless after driving a while you feel you need it.

[LS short box]

That shock angle seems extreme. On my 68 C10 I ran a fairly large aftermarket front sway bar. No rear sway bar. It went around corners just fine.

[HwyStarJoe]

Yeah, I'm gonna have to spend some time with it to decide whether they're necessary. I figure bagged trucks like this aren't meant to be driven like my last project. ��

As far as the shocks, they sure look useless at this ride level. When I can get back on it I'm going to research what my options are there. Besides being pretty old, I'm sure there's gotta be a better setup as far as location.

[Sovereign]

I'm not bagged but I started without sway bars entirely. The truck drove fine but I had to take corners slower than I liked and the truck leaned much more than I would have wanted. I put Ride Tech's sway bar on the front. It helped tremendously. The truck drives like you'd expect a more modern vehicle to drive when going around corners. I'm just a slow street truck but I'd highly recommend a bar on the front.

Regarding the install, I did have to alter the mounting location on their frame bracket and the lower control arms since it's designed for a truck not as low as mine. I wanted the end links to be more vertical at ride height. You may need to keep this in mind with whatever bar you go with if any at all.

[SCOTI]

Sway bars are only required if you feel the ride is too 'loose'. The front usually benefits from a bar by keeping the roll minimized. The rear is much more subjective. Some will swear to the their benefit. Me? Not so much unless there are circumstances beyond normal driving that warrant extra control.

Definitely re-work the rear shock angles. Tweak the stock mounts or get something aftermarket to help stand them up so they actually do something for the suspension.

[68 P.O.S.]

I added front and rear sway bars to my long bed. It came with no front bar, so going to 2 bars was pretty dramatic. So driving it, it handles well and stays nice and flat during turns, instead of almost scraping the door handles on the ground. I have the crappy KYB shocks on it at the moment, so it kinda floats down the road like a Cadillac Overall, I think I would add a rear sway bar again. I highly suggest you get a front sway bar.

For the rear shocks, you need a shock re-locator kit. This one from No Limit moves the shock to the outside of the frame, providing a bit more stability. It might be enough that you won't want a rear sway bar. https://nolimit.net/store/Dropped-Sh...unts-p26244502

[HwyStarJoe]

Thanks
Yeah, I'm looking into the shock relocation for sure. Just need to pick shocks.
I guess I'm more concerned with a front sway bar. That's an easy and smart upgrade.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by HwyStarJoe

Thanks
Yeah, I'm looking into the shock relocation for sure. Just need to pick shocks.
I guess I'm more concerned with a front sway bar. That's an easy and smart upgrade.

Definitely.

[HwyStarJoe]

Back to the rear shocks extreme angle...

Once the shock relocation brackets are done, do I still need to change the shock specs? Or will a stock length shock still work?
If not I know I just need to get the full lift/full drop measurements to pick the correct shocks.
Thanks

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by HwyStarJoe

Back to the rear shocks extreme angle...

Once the shock relocation brackets are done, do I still need to change the shock specs? Or will a stock length shock still work?
If not I know I just need to get the full lift/full drop measurements to pick the correct shocks.
Thanks

Depends on the approach. Making your own brackets means you can build them w/the stock shocks measurements in mind.

Buying aftermarket? You'll need to compare measurements (fully compressed; ride height; fully extended) of the upper & lower brackets once installed vs. the same measurements of a stock shock.

Something to keep in mind:
The stock rear shocks are pretty short though as is. It might be a struggle to find something shorter that works (is valved) correctly for the application.

Stock shock relocation ideas:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=451200
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ation+brackets

[68 P.O.S.]

Lots of vendors sell drop shocks. As you said, I would compare your measurements to the shocks out there and see which would work best for you. I believe the stock shocks would work in the interim, but probably not the best.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 68 P.O.S.

Lots of vendors sell drop shocks. As you said, I would compare your measurements to the shocks out there and see which would work best for you. I believe the stock shocks would work in the interim, but probably not the best.

True.

But.... A longer shock stroke usually will yield a better ride quality since it doesn't infringe on the limits (full extension or full compression) within the suspension travel.

It is easier to go w/a shorter shock when you can find one. If that's the better choice is subjective. I try to keep them OE length & move the mounts if possible but will use shocks for a different application if the travel numbers are within my needed range (I use G-body rear shocks on OBS trucks dropped w/a flip kit +shackles).

[HwyStarJoe]

Great info fellers...
I'll keep this all in mind. Appreciate it.
I plan to just buy a relocation kit so I'll use their recommendations or installed specs to find the best fit.

[theastronaut]

The posts by Frizzle Fry in this thread has info on relocating the rear shocks using the stock brackets, but flipped side to side. I've done it this way on two trucks so far and it makes a huge difference in how they ride and drive. I'm about to do it on my new '66 too.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...05&post4730005


I installed a front and rear sway bar on my old '66 along with relocated shocks front and rear. It had less body roll than my autocross car but rode better than my dad's completely stock '66.

[HwyStarJoe]

Thank you