Old School Hot Rod Truck (1964)

[Arekusu]

Originally Posted by canadian_diesel1964

Man you've done a fantastic job!

Thanks Canadian_Diesel ! It was my first serious project and first frame off restoration. I learned a lot.

Alex

[likaroc13]

Looks great!

[Arekusu]

Originally Posted by likaroc13

Looks great!

Thanks Likaroc!

That big block and bench seat kicked the cr*p outta me on the drive. I have to figure out a way to make long trips more comfortable.

Alex

[Arekusu]

Hello again everyone! Is it cool if I revive my own old thread from the dead?

Just moved to Tacoma, Wa now and the truck is back with me. Since I've been gone I finished my dad's g-body Monte Carlo and it's now my daily driver. I have just about finished my 57 Cadillac too. The Cadillac is fully rust free and in a nice coat of 9300 black paint and 5 coats of clear that likely got sanded down flat to 2 solid mirror like coats. That all took time but I have the truck again.

After driving a well sorted g-body that turns way too well for a 36 year old car, I kind of want a similar feel for the truck. With how much power this thing makes and the slow manual steering box ratio.. it's honestly not save to drive if the back end walks out.. the steering is too slow to get it back around unless I'm truly doing a vulcan mind meld with the truck and time it perfectly. Wet roads? forget it.. I wont drive the truck in the rain.. So to make this a vehicle rather than a garage queen, some mods are to be in order. Here's the plan so far.

The plan:

- Power steering (CPT FAB brackets, maybe a readhead gearbox.. but what pump? I want road feel transmitted to the steering wheel and no 1 finger turning)
- Aurora design radio
- bench seat with contouring or buckets so i don't slide when I drive
- I must fix this column lower bearing.. it binds and doesn't allow me to use the horn.. it also has been chewing up my steering wheel.
- New in-tank fuel pump.. exterior aeromotive sounds like an aircraft APU is about to fire off.
- bigger front brakes.. (are updated spindles worth it (CPP C5?)
- LED headlights. The HID's haven't really worked well

* I'm getting smart on making carbon fiber panels and want to make some for the truck.. has anyone attempted this yet? They wouldn't show the carbon "look".

Thanks for the read.. updates to follow. Let me know what you think. I've been out of the truck game for some time now.

[Arekusu]

Well I drove the truck fro about 6 months on and off.. this year. The engine kept throwing belts. First I thought it was because I had a bad alternator bracket. So I replaced that and the belts still were being thrown. So I pulled off the harmonic dampener and brought it to a machine shop to be checked for straightness. It's still true, but it wobbled on the crank while running. So here we go again.. the motor came out and look what I found.

[Arekusu]

So I broke down the engine to find this.

[Arekusu]

The 454 = dead.

The machine shop I brought it to said the block and the crank were not salvageable as both were too far out of tolerance. When I dropped off the crank the machinist also stated the crank was cracked which could have lead to the #1 main bearing to spin or vice versa.

I looked through FB marketplace, craigslist, and even offer up. No 454 blocks. A new 454 block from a parts house was going to be near 2500.00 without machine work. Too rich for me and too time consuming without a loan to do it all.

I sold all the big block parts at around 50% of their original price on most.

[Arekusu]

1964 C10 Old School Hot Rod Truck Version 3

Well, it's likely not going to be considered old school anymore but I have to adapt it to the times. The 454 was fun. All the torque at 1500 RPM and up was a blast.. it also didn't hook up for **** and I really needed to run a true slick to put that power down.

The TKO-500 = sold.

Time to go modern. It's getting an LSX motor, more precisely an LQ4.

Many guys and gals have made over 1000 hp with a stock bottom end on these things. But the people that do are also highly knowledgeable and have a good tuner in their hip pocket. With how much I move, I need a bit of bullet proof insurance in my builds.

This 6.0 LQ4 is going turbo with a T56 magnum. I just can't quit the manual transmission.. I guess we'll see how it does.

For now I'm saying forged pistons and rods. A new crank may be on the list if it's the right price. Already have a cam purchased. I took some of the casting out of the heads for flow and sanded them smooth. Not really a porting job but just removing a little resistance.

Planning on using a S480 for now. I'm open to other ideas.

I'm going to convert the tank to an in tank fuel pump as it's already an aluminum tank under the bed. Anyone have any recommendations on fueling?

The rack and pinion is from no limit.

I still have to determine my motor mount setup.

Totally open to recommendations for this one. Turbo LS is something i haven't done yet. Hopefully it will also take turns better now too.

[AcampoDave]

Wow, that sucks about the bearing. I don't know squat about modern motors, but wish you the best and I'm glad to see you're back

[Arekusu]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

Wow, that sucks about the bearing. I don't know squat about modern motors, but wish you the best and I'm glad to see you're back

Thanks Dave!

I hope the new part of the build may be helpful to people considering the swap to something modern next. I'm sure I'll be making some mistakes along the way for others to read about. And I figure this time, I'll post updates while doing things, rather than when they are already finished.

Alex

[AcampoDave]

Sounds good, I will follow along. Pehaps someday I may want to install one too.

[Arekusu]

Well I got my ididit column in the mail (Ididit 1120650010). I got it on amazon and saved on shipping because I have prime.

It's warm out now in the Pacific Northwest.. and it's fall. This won't last long, so I need to take advantage of it. Painting day!

Because I had to throw out all of my materials during the last move, I had to buy the basics all over again along with a bit of paint. $250.00 later, we can get started.

Ididit recommends using pieces of wood to mount the column in to paint it.. but they give you this amazing box when they ship it to you! soooo why not? ( it worked just fine by the way, tape your ends, keep it a snug fit at both ends of the column and move it around slow when you rotate it).

From bare metal to painted in an afternoon ish. I didn't sand the column, but I did file most of the openings as they were almost sharp; paint doesn't like that and neither do my hands. Used epoxy as a sealer with reducer, let it set for 45 min between coats and did 3 coats. 3 coats of paint, 30 minutes between those, and 30 minutes between each of the 3 coats of clear. I bought flattening agent as they didn't sell flat clear. As it sits in the pics right now, it doesn't look as flat as I'd like (was hoping for more of a semi gloss look), but I'm hoping it flattens a bit more as it dries.

** Pro tip, use a drop cloth when painting this close to the ground.. OOPS!

[roll_the_dice]

Sorry about the 454...

I agree with you about the manual! I have a T56 Magnum in mine. Mine will be driving full time next week...so I am anxious to row gears again.

[Arekusu]

Originally Posted by roll_the_dice

Sorry about the 454...

I agree with you about the manual! I have a T56 Magnum in mine. Mine will be driving full time next week...so I am anxious to row gears again.

Ya, I thought over building the motor would be good for longevity. Likely using a new block the first time would have made that true.

I just looked at your build thread, hows the T56 in the truck? Sort of wondering if it still shifts crisp from the middle / front position. I have a T56 in my G-body and it's pretty awesome. The GM hyd throw-out bearing is a bit of a time bomb in my experience, so if that's the route you went I'd look into the tilton T56 hyd throw-out bearing. I will never use a GM one again.

Alex

[roll_the_dice]

Originally Posted by Arekusu

Ya, I thought over building the motor would be good for longevity. Likely using a new block the first time would have made that true.

I just looked at your build thread, hows the T56 in the truck? Sort of wondering if it still shifts crisp from the middle / front position. I have a T56 in my G-body and it's pretty awesome. The GM hyd throw-out bearing is a bit of a time bomb in my experience, so if that's the route you went I'd look into the tilton T56 hyd throw-out bearing. I will never use a GM one again.

Alex

My truck isn't driveable yet...next week. I have only backed it out of the driveway and back in...so reverse and 1st. It is at the shop having exhaust installed and my A/C charged. I should get it back tomorrow or Monday. Then I will be driving it. WOOHOO

I am pretty sure it came with the GM Hyd throw-out bearing. I will have to double check my spec sheet. Yours died quickly? Then you changed to the tilton?

[AcampoDave]

Yep, Im with you guys. Manual trannys are just plain fun. I've been keeping it old school so about two years back I replaced my Saginaw 4 speed with a Muncie M22Z on my stock cast iron bell housing.. I've already tweaked my first U-joint hammering the thing. (It's worth it though

[Arekusu]

Originally Posted by roll_the_dice

My truck isn't driveable yet...next week. I have only backed it out of the driveway and back in...so reverse and 1st. It is at the shop having exhaust installed and my A/C charged. I should get it back tomorrow or Monday. Then I will be driving it. WOOHOO

I am pretty sure it came with the GM Hyd throw-out bearing. I will have to double check my spec sheet. Yours died quickly? Then you changed to the tilton?

They didn't die too quick, more like they never bleed well, and seem to take on dust from the clutch into the fluid faster than the aftermarket stuff. I've had two T56 swapped cars now and always used the stock hyd throw-out bearing and stock LS7 clutch (good for about 400hp / torque). They both had the same issues and I bled them all different kinds of way - no luck. Put the tilton in the G-body back in March - has worked perfect ever since with some back road fun driving with a twin disk clutch. If yours acts funny I'd recommend the tilton swap. Just my .02

[roll_the_dice]

Thanks Alex...that is great info. It was definitely a pain to get to the bleed valve in that dumb little opening, but it seemed to have bled easily. I will definitely keep an eye on it and if I see the same thing change it out. Much appreciated!

Andy

[Arekusu]

Today it's so foggy out I can't see 500 feet in front of me. I hope this clears so I can do some work on the truck! (Good thing I painted the column a few days back)

Yesterday i mostly finished up the rack and pinion install. Due to having the big block in there the frame rails were cut to allow the headers to clear. I'll have to call up no limit to see what they say about the steering shaft support and how to mount it.

I'm trying to decide if I just bite the bullet and get the wilwood spindles for bigger brakes or if I try some other version. Maybe someone has used a new system? My front end build was swapped to disks in 2008.. these trucks have had a lot of stuff made for them since then.

[Arekusu]

I'm reaaallly good at these timely updates. Getting closer to something happening.

[The Rocknrod]

At least your keeping the spirit alive nice work Arekusu.