How to set the cab straight?

[Gregski]

I have a '71 4x4 cab on a '69 2WD short bed frame (me thinks, ha ha) and everything seems to be polywhompus on this truck, which don't get me wrong I absolutely love by the way, the truck not the ... you know what I mean

So the fact that the bed sticks out about 1" further at the rear of the cab on one side let me to investigate a bit. You know how it goes, what's crooked? the bed or the cab type of thing?

well I wear glasses and some would say I'm blind as a bat, but I've always had an eye for unevenness and I know what you are thinking, whoa you can tell a 50 year old truck is uneven, genius! no not only can I tell it's off but I can guestimate which way it is off and by roughly how much

so the cab seems to be about 1/2 inch off from the front frame horns, but I think the truck got a smack on the front at some point so I think the horns can't be trusted, since I never could get all the four front bumper bolts into them horns, (there was always one odd man/bolt out) ha ha

so what's the best way to get that cab on there straight, what holes, or land marks would you go off of, not looking for perfect, just good enuff cause a crookend cab means a crooked grill etc, etc

[LockDoc]

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I would remove the cab and bed and "X" measure the frame in different places, or take it to a frame shop and have it checked. You can't really check it with those in place. Well, the frame shop probably could.

LockDoc

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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I would remove the cab and bed and "X" measure the frame in different places, or take it to a frame shop and have it checked. You can't really check it with those in place. Well, the frame shop probably could.

LockDoc

thanks Leon but assuming I could even find a place that does that in my town of Sacramento California (all machine shops are pretty much gone here, gone the way of the remove and replace "mechanics") I'm willing to bet that would exceed the value of this truck, and I can't mustard that

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Gregski

thanks Leon but assuming I could even find a place that does that in my town of Sacramento California (all machine shops are pretty much gone here, gone the way of the remove and replace "mechanics") I'm willing to bet that would exceed the value of this truck, and I can't mustard that

Sacramento is a town of 500,000 people, so I would find it hard to believe that it would be hard to find a frame shop, or body shop that does frame work. As far as the price, that would just have to be checked out. Maybe it would be cheaper to buy a different frame. Either way, the frame would be the first thing I would check. Everything else is based off of that.

I hope you can get it figured out,

LockDoc

[Accelo]

In the old days it was popular to pull on one side of the frame with a chain. Didn't want to damage your bumper! A good yank can easily twist the frame the amount your are talking about. Especially, prevalent on four wheel drives.

Of course an accident could also do it but typically is leaves more evidence, like damaged frame horns. Inspect the rear frame for evidence of a chain stretching the holes/slots in the side that is back the furthest.

Look at body shops or some times a good alignment shops will have a frame machine. Machine shops do not typically have frame equipment.

[Grumpy old man]

Wait ... Wait ... You can build a "electric truck" using multiple parts from multiple different model cars , driving an ungodly amount of miles to get said parts using your gas powered car often sitting in traffic no doubt , And using Google to find a frame machine in multiple autobody shops in your home town is difficult ?


Sorry , just kidding ya BUT !

[Accelo]

You mean this one? LOL
https://www.electrive.com/2020/11/02...onversion-kit/

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Wait ... Wait ... You can build a "electric truck" using multiple parts from multiple different model cars , driving an ungodly amount of miles to get said parts using your gas powered car often sitting in traffic no doubt , And using Google to find a frame machine in multiple autobody shops in your home town is difficult ?


Sorry , just kidding ya BUT !

What's this GOOGLE you are talking about? BING FTW

[Gregski]

so I think I may have found an anchor that may work, the rear cab mounts appear to be flush and perpendicular to the frame

so first the Texter side, see how this side sits further back about 1/2 inch

and then the Driver side, see how it's forward about 1/2 an inch

[Palf70Step]

How do the front body panels line up? Fender, hood and door gaps. Just at a glance from your pictures (hard to tell though) I would not be surprised if your looking at the wrong area. Is your bed put on square? It is very easy to get the bed on crooked/un-squared. There is lots of slop in the bed positioning to give it the appearance of what you are seeing. Cross measure you bed to see if the distance is equal. Then you can check to see what the mounting is like. I normally don't tighten the bed panels up tight until the bed is on and aligned. Lost of folk do not do that. It doesn't show up as bad on metal floored fleetsides because of the welding, but it can get twisted.

[EA69TRK]

I'm not sure were you are located at in Sacramento but I found atleast a half doven decent shops that do frame straightening in the South Sacramento area when I did mine that was about 4-5 years ago. When I was searching I found that if a body shop has "Collision" in the name they typically had a frame machine. You may have to call around or just stop by and talk to them to see if they are willing to due an older vehicle. I took mine to Excellence Auto Collision Center off of Florin Perkins, the owner has a '69 or '70 short bed, and they had no problem doing my frame and was a couple hundred bucks but well worth it.

[layinrocker65]

You could probably get a good idea if the frame is square using a level to level the truck, a plumb bob to mark points on the ground, then measure from point to point. If the frame needs straightening, it would probably be more cost effective to buy a different frame, build all your motor/battery mounts and then move the cab and bed over.

[Gregski]

I honestly don't know how this thread has taken a turn for me needing a new frame, all I asked was how to set the cab on straight, ha ha

and this is not a SEMA build it's a 50 year old truck so of course the frame is most likely warped, it's ok as long as the cab is on there straight she will get me home

[kwmech]

Usually if the mounting is that far off, the frame is more often than not out of square..you could loosen everything up and jack it around and see if things get better.

[Dieselwrencher]

It's obvious you know the cab has been swapped. Did they use the correct mounts when they swapped it? I think the K 10/20 and C20/30 bushings have a larger ID on the part that goes through the frame mounts. Either way, you should be able to loosen up your body mounts and move the cab some forward and aft. I'd try to get the cab as square as you can then put the fenders on and see if the radiator support will fit. If you want to check your frame for straightness, make some quick tram gauges and check it. A tape measure, string, and some good reference points can go a long way.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Gregski

I honestly don't know how this thread has taken a turn for me needing a new frame, all I asked was how to set the cab on straight, ha ha

and this is not a SEMA build it's a 50 year old truck so of course the frame is most likely warped, it's ok as long as the cab is on there straight she will get me home

Because, if your frame is bent you aren't going to get the parts set on straight, and you indicated that you probably couldn't find or afford a frame shop.... So I mentioned that it might be cheaper for you to just find a different frame.....