1966 F100 Short Bed Styleside Metal/Body/Paint Work

[aggie91]

Very nice work as always. One question, I see how you finished the appearance side of the area you added the welding rod to close up the gap, but what do you do about the part that is not seen when it is all back together. In the one picture, you can still see the rod before you started grinding and there is no weld on that side...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Very nice work as always. One question, I see how you finished the appearance side of the area you added the welding rod to close up the gap, but what do you do about the part that is not seen when it is all back together. In the one picture, you can still see the rod before you started grinding and there is no weld on that side...

And to add to that....

How do you 'choose' where to add material? Like in the last group of images where you were dialing in the gaps for the front of the fenders to the center grille. Are you tweaking the fenders because they're likely the issue (aftermarket consistency quality) or is the choice of where to tweak/add material more aligned w/whatever works best (or easiest) to yield the desired gap?

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Details, details... very nice work!!

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

One word, REMARKABLE!

Thanks!!

Originally Posted by aggie91

Very nice work as always. One question, I see how you finished the appearance side of the area you added the welding rod to close up the gap, but what do you do about the part that is not seen when it is all back together. In the one picture, you can still see the rod before you started grinding and there is no weld on that side...

Good question, the back side is tack welded to add more stability to the welding rod. I don't solid weld it- more heat would warp the panel more. Also notice that the ends are welded more heavily for full penetration to make sure the ends don't separate when the weld bead is ground down. I'll use the spot blaster to make sure the back side is clean and etched to prep for epoxy primer, then within the epoxy's recoat window the backside is filled in with filler to smooth it out and eliminate the step. Applying filler within the recoat window ensures the best adhesion possible. It looks like a huge step in pics but it's only 1/8" rod, and it's been shaved thinner to even out the gap so there won't be that much filler applied. I'll include more details about using filler in the gaps while making sure the gaps are consistent in the upcoming updates.

Originally Posted by SCOTI

And to add to that....

How do you 'choose' where to add material? Like in the last group of images where you were dialing in the gaps for the front of the fenders to the center grille. Are you tweaking the fenders because they're likely the issue (aftermarket consistency quality) or is the choice of where to tweak/add material more aligned w/whatever works best (or easiest) to yield the desired gap?

There's no set way to determine which edge is reworked, there are a lot of factors to consider. Which edge is easier to manipulate? Are there body lines, stamped details, etc that have to be considered? Window frames- Does the outside edge need to be exactly parallel with the window opening? For the grill opening, since it's anodized aluminum the grill itself can't be modified other than mild bending so the fender had to be modified.

To back up a bit, the main thing is to always try to align each panel so that the overall shape from panel to panel is most level and body lines that go from panel to panel are aligned/flowing. Gaps can be moved but you can't move a major body line in the middle of a panel easily. Getting the overall panel shape and flow as even as possible to begin with makes a huge difference in how much bodywork it takes to get the panels flush and straight. The aluminum c-channel I've shown before helps with this.


A good example of having to decided where to tweak the panels to make the gaps even and the body lines even is the door tops. The door tops/window frames had a stepped body line that runs parallel with the edge about an inch away from the edge. Welding filler rod on the edge in the spots where the gaps were bigger would make the gaps the correct size but the distance from the body line to the door edge would then be inconsistent, so that wouldn't work. The only option is to modify the cab to make the gap even. On these trucks the b-pillar has a tapered body line that further complicates where to add or subtract to make an even gap that also flows well with nearby body lines. A last resort option would be to cut and rearrange the window frame but then you get into cutting custom glass, and that only works with flat glass.


This is the before of that area- note the huge gap at the rear, tapered raised b-pillar stamping, and the body line around the edge of the window frame. The door top/window opening/door edge/body line are all very consistent already so I didn't want to disturb that.




I cut the jamb out to make a new wider piece to tighten up the gap and keep the b-pillar taper consistent.





Finished- The edge of the door and the body line around the window opening are parallel, the gap is even and straight, and the taper in the b-pillar is a consistent shape top to bottom. Everything flows- no edges, gaps, or body lines look out of place. Had I welded 1/8" rod to the back of the door the body line in the window frame would've turned into a taper instead of being parallel to the door edge.






On the upper grill panel, both the fender and grill filler were curved inward in the middle making the gap tight in the middle. I could've made a relief cut on either panel and pushed the edge over to make an even gap but then the gap would be curved. The inner edge of the fender that butts up against the grill filler had a 45* slant which I didn't like; when the panels were butted there wasn't much clearance and the paint would probably chip. Since that edge needed reworking anyway I started with it first, making the edge closer to 90* and straightening the edge to use as a reference to match the grill filler edge to. I also hammer/dolly'd the actual mating flanges flat where the bolts go through so I could set the gap size with shims. Setting the grill filler gaps with shims affects the grill opening width so that had to be done before the grill could be fitted.




Relief cut, inner flange hammered into more of a 90* corner for better grill filler clearance.







Fender edge finished, grill filler installed to check fit- still tight in the middle.





Relief cut to make the edge straight. With both fender and filler edges straight the gap is set with shims between the two panels. Harbor Freight sells a body shim assortment with sizes down to .015" to accurately space the panels apart.




For the hood to fender gap, the body line of the door determines where the gap needs to be, so I pulled a straight edge and modified the hood's bottom edge to flow with that body line. The fender will be modified to match, along with the bottom edge of the cowl panel (this will be the next update). Once the fender is fitted to match the shape of the door skin top to bottom and front to back, I'll modify the top and back edges to even out the gaps between the door and fender. With the fender fit locked in I can finish the door bottoms to match the lower edge of the fender and cab corner.

Let me know if this covers it, or if you have any other questions about it!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

Thanks!!

Good question, the back side is tack welded to add more stability to the welding rod. I don't solid weld it- more heat would warp the panel more. Also notice that the ends are welded more heavily for full penetration to make sure the ends don't separate when the weld bead is ground down. I'll use the spot blaster to make sure the back side is clean and etched to prep for epoxy primer, then within the epoxy's recoat window the backside is filled in with filler to smooth it out and eliminate the step. Applying filler within the recoat window ensures the best adhesion possible. It looks like a huge step in pics but it's only 1/8" rod, and it's been shaved thinner to even out the gap so there won't be that much filler applied. I'll include more details about using filler in the gaps while making sure the gaps are consistent in the upcoming updates.

There's no set way to determine which edge is reworked, there are a lot of factors to consider. Which edge is easier to manipulate? Are there body lines, stamped details, etc that have to be considered? Window frames- Does the outside edge need to be exactly parallel with the window opening? For the grill opening, since it's anodized aluminum the grill itself can't be modified other than mild bending so the fender had to be modified.

To back up a bit, the main thing is to always try to align each panel so that the overall shape from panel to panel is most level and body lines that go from panel to panel are aligned/flowing. Gaps can be moved but you can't move a major body line in the middle of a panel easily. Getting the overall panel shape and flow as even as possible to begin with makes a huge difference in how much bodywork it takes to get the panels flush and straight. The aluminum c-channel I've shown before helps with this.


A good example of having to decided where to tweak the panels to make the gaps even and the body lines even is the door tops. The door tops/window frames had a stepped body line that runs parallel with the edge about an inch away from the edge. Welding filler rod on the edge in the spots where the gaps were bigger would make the gaps the correct size but the distance from the body line to the door edge would then be inconsistent, so that wouldn't work. The only option is to modify the cab to make the gap even. On these trucks the b-pillar has a tapered body line that further complicates where to add or subtract to make an even gap that also flows well with nearby body lines. A last resort option would be to cut and rearrange the window frame but then you get into cutting custom glass, and that only works with flat glass.

This is the before of that area- note the huge gap at the rear, tapered raised b-pillar stamping, and the body line around the edge of the window frame. The door top/window opening/door edge/body line are all very consistent already so I didn't want to disturb that.

I cut the jamb out to make a new wider piece to tighten up the gap and keep the b-pillar taper consistent.

Finished- The edge of the door and the body line around the window opening are parallel, the gap is even and straight, and the taper in the b-pillar is a consistent shape top to bottom. Everything flows- no edges, gaps, or body lines look out of place. Had I welded 1/8" rod to the back of the door the body line in the window frame would've turned into a taper instead of being parallel to the door edge.

On the upper grill panel, both the fender and grill filler were curved inward in the middle making the gap tight in the middle. I could've made a relief cut on either panel and pushed the edge over to make an even gap but then the gap would be curved. The inner edge of the fender that butts up against the grill filler had a 45* slant which I didn't like; when the panels were butted there wasn't much clearance and the paint would probably chip. Since that edge needed reworking anyway I started with it first, making the edge closer to 90* and straightening the edge to use as a reference to match the grill filler edge to. I also hammer/dolly'd the actual mating flanges flat where the bolts go through so I could set the gap size with shims. Setting the grill filler gaps with shims affects the grill opening width so that had to be done before the grill could be fitted.

Relief cut, inner flange hammered into more of a 90* corner for better grill filler clearance.

Fender edge finished, grill filler installed to check fit- still tight in the middle.

Relief cut to make the edge straight. With both fender and filler edges straight the gap is set with shims between the two panels. Harbor Freight sells a body shim assortment with sizes down to .015" to accurately space the panels apart.

For the hood to fender gap, the body line of the door determines where the gap needs to be, so I pulled a straight edge and modified the hood's bottom edge to flow with that body line. The fender will be modified to match, along with the bottom edge of the cowl panel (this will be the next update). Once the fender is fitted to match the shape of the door skin top to bottom and front to back, I'll modify the top and back edges to even out the gaps between the door and fender. With the fender fit locked in I can finish the door bottoms to match the lower edge of the fender and cab corner.

Let me know if this covers it, or if you have any other questions about it!

This was my assumption but I figured if I'm wondering if my logic is on-point, others might be as well. Your confirmation is appreciated.
Thanks again for sharing your insight & taking the time to explain things. It is very much appreciated.