K30 Downgrade to Cummins Project

[COS399]

Thanks for the update. Looking good.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by COS399

Thanks for the update. Looking good.

Thanks COS

Mounts done, engine in for the last time and bolted down
The slots in them are an example of some parts of this build where I'm taking a bit more time to make things serviceable. I could have settled for just holes but then I'd have to pull the engine just to replace a mount since the mounts are at an angle.

Trans is in jail at the trans shop. Dropped it off 4 weeks ago. Back then they thought 2 weeks until they could look at it. Called 2 days ago and left a VM for an update and no call back yet

[gmikkels]

Awesome, looks like it belongs in there!!!

[Madkidd007]

Small thought for you, the oil fill spot I noticed may be in the way like mine was for the upper radiator hose. The extension is the same thread as the cap itself so if it’s too tall you can replace the extension with just the cap.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by gmikkels

Awesome, looks like it belongs in there!!!

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Madkidd007

Small thought for you, the oil fill spot I noticed may be in the way like mine was for the upper radiator hose. The extension is the same thread as the cap itself so if it’s too tall you can replace the extension with just the cap.

Good tip! I think the 2nd gen hose will clear it but if not, good info.


Time for an update on the build. I've been dealing with a couple distractions lately, getting an old mower ready for cuttting season. Any other Toro Groundsmaster fans here? This model 72 has a pretty good running 4cylinder watercooled Renault (continental) R10 engine. I put a new distributor with pertronix setup on. She's from 1980 but the 72 inch deck and rear wheel steer make for quick cutting. These are very durable machines. They still sold what was basically the same design through 2010 (but with creature comforts and a sweet 28 hp Kubota diesel) before they downsized the chassis a bit.

Also picked up a winter beater and/or future project. Its an 04.5 LLY that runs really well but has body issues and the price was too good to pass up. I've since obtained a rust free cab for it from a local guy who is also a forum member I've been changing fluids and trying to figure out what to do with it. Probably drive for a winter as is and then do the cab swap and find a new bed. It runs and drives very well and only has 220k on it, not much for a diesel. It was on old company truck and has a nice ag hitch on it, new batteries and very nice aftermarket stereo system.

[Vintage Windmills]

Despite the distractions, I've still managed to make some progress on the K30. Things are really coming together. I'm basically having to make my own core support since the intercooler has to be so low and close to the radiator. More on that later.

I need to custom make the drain tube from turbo oil outlet to clear the engine mount. Need to figure out if its better/easier to run the oil drain line above or below the engine mount.

[Madkidd007]

If I remember correctly there is an additional hole towards the rear you can put your drain to. Factory uses the front and plugs the rear. But regardless I would put my hard angle lower so you have zero chance of backing up the oil coming out of the turbo

[Vintage Windmills]

Cool, i will look for that hole. That would make things a bit easier.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by Madkidd007

If I remember correctly there is an additional hole towards the rear you can put your drain to. Factory uses the front and plugs the rear. But regardless I would put my hard angle lower so you have zero chance of backing up the oil coming out of the turbo

That is only on storm blocks and his block is not a storm block. Jud, I'd go over the mount not under. The oil may not return to the pan properly. You can get SS flexible lines that will help this situation.

https://www.google.com/search?q=dodg...hrome&ie=UTF-8

[Madkidd007]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

That is only on storm blocks and his block is not a storm block. Jud, I'd go over the mount not under. The oil may not return to the pan properly. You can get SS flexible lines that will help this situation.

https://www.google.com/search?q=dodg...hrome&ie=UTF-8

Never knew that about the blocks. Now I have something to google tonight.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

You can get SS flexible lines that will help this situation.

https://www.google.com/search?q=dodg...hrome&ie=UTF-8

I think thats what I bought a few days ago. Here is a pic. I should be able to rebend this, add a hose section and use the original elbow thats pressed into the block.

[Vintage Windmills]

Rant warning:

Seems like everytime I hire a "professional" I have issues of some sort. For auto work, the only thing I hire others to do are alignments and rebuild transmissions. 2 out of 3 of the transmissions have had issues. These are longstanding local shops. Guess I have to also do this myself in the future. Issues with the shop doing the work on my G360 are as follows:

1) The price ended up being 40% higher than the quoted. Yes, it needed more than average, but maybe call your customer and get authorization that its ok to put more into it?? I did tell them to purchase the higher quality parts and not skimp back 6 weeks ago when I was given updated estimate but still how hard is to call? I called him out on this and he did itemize and the cost seemed justified so this is mainly a frustration of taking forever, and not communicating.

2) Only at pickup did they mention the cracked bellhousing. Thanks for the headsup! Could have spent the last few weeks looking for one...

3) When I got home I noticed the output shaft still has old grease/crud in the splines. Also the topcover and bellhousing still have caked on grease on the outside- WTF, shouldn't everything have been cleaned?

Guess I better open it up and verify its good on the inside....

Does everyone have results like this with shops?

[Vintage Windmills]

Battled the core support quite a bit, there's not much left of it after fitting all the items up front. Ended up having to reconstruct the bottom and create a new frame for it. Would have been way easier to use the stock small big block Chevy radiator. The dodge one is so tall and the stack so thick and far forward to run the mechanical fan. The condenser is about 3/8" behind the front plastic grille.

Still need to find some heater tubes that bolt on manifold.

Finished welding the custom engine accessory brackets and painted them but then the damn clear coat lifted the base layer. I even tested it and it didn't lift in the test! So now I have to sand them down

[COS399]

I feel the same way you do about hiring so called "professionals." I try to do as much as I can myself because of the waste of time and money but mostly the frustration and the fact that you end up redoing it yourself anyway.

I'm in the process of redoing my inter-cooler, radiator, and condenser on my 1988. I took out the modified Chevy 4 core radiator and inter-cooler and went with the factory Dodge: radiator, inter-cooler and condenser. Please attach some pics to show us your core support when you get a chance. Also, my 360 went belly up almost 3 years ago and so I parked it and am in the process of switching to a NV4500 instead of trying to rebuild the 360.

Keep us posted.

[1972K20]

Good looking build. What are your plans for the fuel shut-off solenoid? How do you plan to wire that?

[Ford Assassin]

Two year bump for updates....

I completed my P pump 12 valve/nv4500 swap in my C30 crew cab dually last June, but now collecting pieces for a 4wd conversion. Already got GM Dana 60 kingpin and NP208 with a SYE kit.

Just trying to figure out if I am going to keep/cut/mod the stock 2wd engine crossmember or source the 4wd engine/frame side pads and run an aftermarket crossmember like Summit sells.

[Madkidd007]

Originally Posted by Ford Assassin

Two year bump for updates....

I completed my P pump 12 valve/nv4500 swap in my C30 crew cab dually last June, but now collecting pieces for a 4wd conversion. Already got GM Dana 60 kingpin and NP208 with a SYE kit.

Just trying to figure out if I am going to keep/cut/mod the stock 2wd engine crossmember or source the 4wd engine/frame side pads and run an aftermarket crossmember like Summit sells.

Well coming from someone that works at summit, and has had factory 4wd trucks and my daily driven cummins swap. The answer to your thought would be all in how much lift. Feel free to message me as I don’t wanna be a thread hijacker

[Ford Assassin]

Originally Posted by Madkidd007

Well coming from someone that works at summit, and has had factory 4wd trucks and my daily driven cummins swap. The answer to your thought would be all in how much lift. Feel free to message me as I don’t wanna be a thread hijacker

Didn't seem the original poster minded additional info being posted....

At least 4"....6" would be ideal.

[Madkidd007]

Originally Posted by Ford Assassin

Didn't seem the original poster minded additional info being posted....

At least 4"....6" would be ideal.

In that case you’d be cutting a good bit. Sway bar will hit the crossmember and require notching. Crossover steering is tight with that low of lift so you’d need the 4wd box and to be honest I’ve never tried traditional steering so I don’t know what clearance issues there would be on the driver side with the spring pocket/crossmember. Also on crossover you run into issues with the drag link hitting the front of the crossmember. I used a Right hand drive JK drag link and pitman arm on a 2wd box but still had to cut a slot in the front of the crossmember to guarantee no rubbing. At the end of the day it’s still a lot better than the 4wd crossmember.

[Ford Assassin]

Originally Posted by Madkidd007

In that case you’d be cutting a good bit. Sway bar will hit the crossmember and require notching. Crossover steering is tight with that low of lift so you’d need the 4wd box and to be honest I’ve never tried traditional steering so I don’t know what clearance issues there would be on the driver side with the spring pocket/crossmember. Also on crossover you run into issues with the drag link hitting the front of the crossmember. I used a Right hand drive JK drag link and pitman arm on a 2wd box but still had to cut a slot in the front of the crossmember to guarantee no rubbing. At the end of the day it’s still a lot better than the 4wd crossmember.

I don't really want to run more than a 35" tall tires on my Alcoa wheels, otherwise I would consider more lift.

I already have a PSC 2wd box so Crossover seemed to be the obvious choice.

Why is the 4wd crossmember so bad? Being I have a 6BT swap, I would have to run a Summit or similar Cummins swap crossmember to clear the oil pan if I decided to ditch the 2wd crossmember.

[Ford Assassin]

4wd conversion done...