Finally Starting My Engine Swap

[TTurbo565]

the plug at the bottom of the intake will work.

[Accelo]

Shimming will work. Longer bolts are a requirement. Just measure the gap distance and add it to the original length. Just stack the washers. I like the extra thick hardened washers. Not always easy to find unless you have a fastener store nearby.
It's a lot of gap. However, I have seen the converter snouts off by a lot. Just get the gap to 1/8" or so and it will work. I have also had converters that were to long and you couldn't get any gap. Almost like China quality control!

[BrentBTK]

Originally Posted by TTurbo565

the plug at the bottom of the intake will work.

I don't think it will without some sort of bushing. The sensor bottoms out in the hole, that's why I'm wondering about the one on top of the water pump.

[TTurbo565]

The water pump is pulling from the cool end of the radiator. That is even worse than the cylinder head. Can you swap the upper sensor? Worst case you could move the heater hose to the lower position and have both sensors in the top. There is a bump on the top of the water passage that you could drill and tap for the sensor as well.
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[Accelo]

Consider drilling and tapping the boss next to the thermostat housing. The extra Aluminum is there just for that purpose.

[BrentBTK]

Originally Posted by Accelo

Consider drilling and tapping the boss next to the thermostat housing. The extra Aluminum is there just for that purpose.

That makes sense. I assume to do that, I'm going to have to remove the intake manifold from my brand new, sealed up motor. I'd like to avoid that if I can. Could the fan switch go in the head and free that spot for the temp sensor?

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by Accelo

Consider drilling and tapping the boss next to the thermostat housing. The extra Aluminum is there just for that purpose.

I learned something new today, thank you.

Nobody ever told me about that until now.

Blake

[Accelo]

I assume to do that, I'm going to have to remove the intake manifold from my brand new, sealed up motor. I'd like to avoid that if I can.

I don't blame you for not wanting to pull the intake manifold. I would just drill it in place. The only aluminum that drops in is when you brake trough with the bit. I use a small piece of hose on a vacuum to pick up the junk. Grease the tap if you think it will help. You will have a large hole, to vacuum from, if you just remove the thermostat. Think of the crap that builds up in the coolant over time. A speck or two, if you miss them, will not make any difference.

Could the fan switch go in the head and free that spot for the temp sensor"

Yes, if you have a port in the head I would use it.
Cheers.

[BrentBTK]

Next Question. The engine came with the fuel pump installed and this nice braided line straight to the carb. I'd sure like to have an inline fuel filter after the tank. Is there any issue putting a filter in the line before the pump instead of trying to break into the carb line? I put a new pickup in the tank with a new sock on it, but I think I'd still feel better with another filter before the motor. Worth it? Overkill?

[Steeveedee]

Other manufacturers have put a filter before the pump. If you do it, I'd recommend a regular replacement schedule, since the pump doesn't work well with high suction, like when the filter gets clogged. There are some large, low loss filters around.

[Mid-Pack]

For your temp gauge, use the head. Your vortec heads use 3/8" threads, as opposed the 1/2" threads of the original sending unit. Use ACDelco 213-80 (GM #25037346), https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-213-8.../dp/B000C9L7DI

Install your fan sensor in the top of your manifold, to the right of the upper radiator hose.

[Accelo]

Since you only have atmosphere pressure to push the fuel through a filter on the suction line it is recommended to have it on the pressure side. Even the slightest debris will cause an issue. Exactly when Steeveedee recommended a replacement schedule.

Consider one of these:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...xoCWA8QAvD_BwE

[BrentBTK]

Originally Posted by Mid-Pack

For your temp gauge, use the head. Your vortec heads use 3/8" threads, as opposed the 1/2" threads of the original sending unit. Use ACDelco 213-80 (GM #25037346), https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-213-8.../dp/B000C9L7DI

Install your fan sensor in the top of your manifold, to the right of the upper radiator hose.

Appreciate that. I have a Dakota Digital sensor, I'll have to get a bushing to make it fit, but that'll work. I wonder how much difference there is in temp between the intake manifold and the heads?

[BrentBTK]

Originally Posted by Accelo

Since you only have atmosphere pressure to push the fuel through a filter on the suction line it is recommended to have it on the pressure side. Even the slightest debris will cause an issue. Exactly when Steeveedee recommended a replacement schedule.

Consider one of these:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...xoCWA8QAvD_BwE

Perfect. Thanks.

[Mid-Pack]

Originally Posted by BrentBTK

Appreciate that. I have a Dakota Digital sensor, I'll have to get a bushing to make it fit, but that'll work. I wonder how much difference there is in temp between the intake manifold and the heads?

From what I`ve researched, you`re looking at probably 10 warmer due to the exhaust heat. Does it matter? There are mixed opinions on the preferred location, manifold or head. Your thermostat and elect. fan are set to maintain a certain temp with a properly designed cooling system. If so, you can take that 10 degrees into account no problem.

[toolboxchev]

Interesting problems on a simple swap. Oh how things can be.

[BrentBTK]

Update time. She is still on jack stands. This has been one complication after another. I finally got some shims to go between the torque converter and the flexplate, problem solved. Knowing how hard the starter was to wire with the exhaust in the way, I installed it first. Then, I couldn't get the exhaust pipe flange past the starter to bolt up to the manifold. Okay. No big deal, I'll pull the starter, install the pipe, and work around it to put the starter back in. I get the starter removed, install the exhaust pipe, and when I go to put the starter back in place, it won't fit. The back of the starter is hitting the exhaust pipe a couple inches below the flange. WTF? This is a summit "mini" starter, so I certainly didn't expect to have clearance issues. I pull it back out and try clocking it in the 3 different holes, hoping I can get enough clearance that way. Nope. Okay. So, I formulate a plan to beat the hell out of the exhaust pipe until I create a dent big enough to clear the starter. Not ideal, but it'll work to get it running to take it to an exhaust shop for new pipes. I spent over an hour laying under the truck with a propane torch and a hammer beating the pipe into submission. Success! The starter bolted right up without touching the pipe. After getting everything else finally buttoned up, I fired her for the first time. She fired right up and revealed a huge exhaust leak on the passenger side, but other than that, sounded great! I got the exhaust leak fixed (bad gasket) and she was running like a champ. I knew the trans was low on fluid, so I started adding fluid, and as I did, it developed a horrible banging sound. Upon further investigation, it appears the weight of the fluid flexed things just enough that the flexplate contacts the end of the starter gear as it spins around making a heck of a racket. I can put a screwdriver on the end of the starter gear and with the lightest tension, it clears. Ugh. I pull the starter back out and install a shim to back the gear away from the flexplate. Now, with the shim installed, I'm right back where I started. The back of the starter is hitting the exhaust pipe. AGAIN. AHHHH!!!!! At that point yesterday, I layed the starter on the ground, slid out from under the truck, and let loose a fury of thrown tools and expletives. The only answer I can come up with is to go back at it with a hammer and torch again for about an 1/8" of clearance so I can drive it to an exhaust shop. I even considered grinding the end of the starter gear, these are the rabbit holes a month of problems will drive you into, lol.

[BrentBTK]

Gonna try one more thing before I start "blacksmithing" on the exhaust pipe. The clearance I need is SO SMALL. I have an extra starter shim that I have pounded to about half the original thickness. I'm gonna try to slide that in instead and see if it buys me what I need while clearing the exhaust. Fingers crossed!!

[BrentBTK]

Nope. Ugh. Guess I'll be spending the morning under the truck with my propane torch and a hammer. Again. Fun!!

[geezer#99]

If you’re just trying to get it to the exhaust shop without frying anything from the hot exhaust, there are easier ways.
I’ve used a bigger piece of pipe tied up to the outlet to deflect the exhaust down and out.
Usually a 3-4 inch piece will slide right in place.

[BrentBTK]

Thanks Geezer. I didn't have any extra pipe on hand. I managed to "massage" it just enough to get the starter to clear. Fired her up and took her for her first spin. All systems go! I drover her about 5 miles, filled her up, hit the highway for a couple miles, and sat in a bit of traffic. Everything worked as it should, no obvious leaks. Not a hundred percent in love with how long the electric fan runs after I shut her down, I'll pay attention to that and my battery for a while before I decide to change the power source to something ignition controlled. Pic of the starter and exhaust below. Now to call some exhaust shops. I have a new set of exhaust manifolds I'm hoping they can use without issue. I started this swap 3 weeks ago today with the hope of having it done in a weekend, a week tops. Best laid plans, lol

[BrentBTK]

50 miles in, and I am so pleased. One small leak on the lower radiator hose at the radiator, a second hose clamp should fix that. Beyond that, she runs like a dream. Still getting the idle dialed in and I need to figure out how to hook up the kickdown cable for the trans. The bracket won't clear the valve cover. On the old engine, the intake manifold bolts were at an angle. On this one, they are straight up and down so the bracket hits the cover. If I flip the bracket around, the cable interferes with my oil pressure sender. I think I may just bend the tabs on the bracket to angle it away from the valve covers. It was 3 weeks of struggles and problems, but it sure feels good to be back on the road. I find myself looking for reasons to drive again!

[yuccales]

Originally Posted by BrentBTK

I think I may just bend the tabs on the bracket to angle it away from the valve covers.

Sounds like a good fix. Glad you got it running!

[Accelo]

Bending it is a good idea.
To adjust the cable
1. Hold the carburetor wide open
2. Push down on the button incorporated into the end of the kick down cable.
3. Pull back on the cable till the inner cable is taught.
4. Release the button.
Easiest with two people. Have one person in the cab holding the throttle to the floor.
Confirm you have WOT before makeng the adjustment.

GM also make a mount that connects to the carburetor studs. It incorporates both the throttle cable and the kick down cable into one bracket. You get a two fur...