1960 Hydraulic clutch geometry

[Desert dog]

The new stock brake and clutch systems are installed and bled. While bleeding the clutch it appeared there was 3" of play at the pedal prior to the master being engaged.
A check of the new master cylinder indicates the same plunger dimple depth as the original. The rod appears to be stock and is a twin to the brake master. I extended the rod to its full length and still had 2" of pedal play.
The slave does move the clutch arm about an inch once the master is engaged.
Using a coupler I was able to increase the rod length to an acceptable length.
I am concerned about damaging the master with too much throw by bottoming out the master plunger.

Respectfully, my questions are as follows;
Is it normal to have that much pedal play prior to engaging the master?
How much clutch arm movement is normal?
Which of the two positions on the clutch arm should I be using?

As always, Thanks!!

[Desert dog]

Here is a photo of the clutch rod location options.

[The Rocknrod]

Many people have discussed the throw of the clutch pedal, here is one solution - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=516070

[Desert dog]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Many people have discussed the throw of the clutch pedal, here is one solution - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=516070

Thank you, Sir. That may be an option.

[Desert dog]

After some trial and error, we got the clutch geometry worked out. Both brake and clutch pedals are set at 6+-" off the floor with 1/4" of free rod travel at the Master cylinders and 1" at the pedals. Both have a good solid feel.
It does seem odd though that we had to extend the factory clutch rod about an inch to get it to work.
The throw out bearing has about 1/4" of play before contacting the clutch arms.

Now on to the engine. I ask for your patience as we'll have many questions about the old 235.

Respectfully,
Desert dog