Auto tranny for ‘67

[RMcCuller]

I have a ‘67 c10, short step that I modified from a previous resto. Among other things I put in a 327 from a Camaro. I did nothing to the tranny which is a 3 speed column shift. In researching it, I’ve determined that it is a Chevy 341 tranny which I don’t think is original. I have on going issue with the shift linkage which I’ve corrected several times but it continues to give trouble. I’m thinking of putting in an automatic with floor shift. Any advice on which may be the best transmission to use with this engine. I use the truck for cruising only, no racing. Any advice will be appreciated

[Mike Bradbury]

With gas prices the way they are and where they are going, I would suggest a 700r4 because it gives you one extra gear and just a bit better gas millage. I had one rebuilt and installed it in my 69 C20 and I really enjoyed driving it after that. I had a TH400 prior and I was spinning at 3500 amp on the freeway just to keep up with traffic. It is a bit longer transmission so shortening the drive shaft is necessary but look on the bright side, if you ever do an LS/4L60E swap, it is basically the same transmission just the electronic version.

[RMcCuller]

Originally Posted by Mike Bradbury

With gas prices the way they are and where they are going, I would suggest a 700r4 because it gives you one extra gear and just a bit better gas millage. I had one rebuilt and installed it in my 69 C20 and I really enjoyed driving it after that. I had a TH400 prior and I was spinning at 3500 amp on the freeway just to keep up with traffic. It is a bit longer transmission so shortening the drive shaft is necessary but look on the bright side, if you ever do an LS/4L60E swap, it is basically the same transmission just the electronic version.

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[RMcCuller]

Originally Posted by RMcCuller

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Thanks. Good points. I’ll look for a 700 R4
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[jocko]

If you want to stick with a stick (or 3OTT), a T-5 from an S-10 is a nice option (since you mentioned you won't be abusing it, just cruising. If you're wanting to convert to an automatic, then Mike has provided a good recommendation. 2004R also an option for that. However, if you don't do a lot of highway driving, you might as well save your $ for gas because that is where the overdrive transmissions help your fuel economy. Even if you do drive on the highway, keep in mind it will take a lot of saved gallons of gas to pay for the trans - if fuel economy is the only reason you're considering the swap. But it is also a nice drivability improvement, lower rpm on the highway, etc.

EDIT: disregard the T-5 note, I missed your note you were considering switching to an automatic!

[geezer#99]

And down the rabbit hole you go!
The 700R4 needs a kit to hook up the tv cable to your carb. Only a few hundred more. Or depending on what carb you got you might need to make your own brackets.
Then there’s the bellhousing crossmember you need to remove. No room for most automatics to fit otherwise.
Then driveshaft shortening.
Rear trans mount of course.
Possibly starter too.
Exhaust work maybe.
Floor shifter too.
It all adds up.
‘Twas mine I’d use a hurst master shift on the 3 speed. About 500 bucks.
Your Muncie 341 was available on your truck originally.

[Accelo]

Another option is the 2004R. It fits directly without modifications to the drive line. If you don't have a bunch of HP they work well. If you have the front frame mounted transmission bell-housing mounts they have to go.
There is a shifter that bolts to the lugs on the sides and comes through like a 4-speed shaft handle does. A good way to shift an retrofitted automatic.
Since the 2004R doesn't have a bolt on tail shaft it is unlikely the retro 4-speed shifter would work on the 2004R. The 2004r would likely require a cable driven ratchet shifter.

[72SB]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

‘Twas mine I’d use a hurst master shift on the 3 speed. About 500 bucks.
Your Muncie 341 was available on your truck originally.

^^^

but if OP wants an automatic and long FWY speeds are not the primary use, than a TH350 behind the 327 will be nice.

[jimijam00]

Originally Posted by Mike Bradbury

With gas prices the way they are and where they are going, I would suggest a 700r4 because it gives you one extra gear and just a bit better gas millage.

How long you do think it would be before he could recoup the cost, through gas savings, with the 700R4, torque converter, and condiments?

I see no need to replace the transmission just because of a linkage problem.

[Accelo]

"How long you do think it would be before he could recoup the cost, through gas savings, with the 700R4, torque converter, and condiments".
The answer is never! If I was looking for return on investment I would have been broke a long time ago working on these old C10 trucks.

Replacement parts for the three on the tree are just not out there. Maybe a worn part can be repaired? Or do what has been done for years, convert it to a floor shifter?

Least inexpensive fix is likely the conversion to the T-5 from an S-10 as mentioned. If you did the work yourself it could be done for the price of the manual floor shifter for the 3 speed.

However, you wanted an automatic. The old 350thm are still out there and would be stock for the 1969 and up C10's. The are also the same length as the Power-glides. Should go right in and again will not require any driveline work. I would add a used column with the automatic shifter and never look back. Don't forget the transmission cooler. A replacement radiator or just and aftermarket add on will suffice. But I am spending others money which I am very good at. LOL
Cheers.

[Bigdav160]

I thought the mid motor mounts were in the way for an auto swap?

It's been too many years since I've done it

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by Bigdav160

I thought the mid motor mounts were in the way for an auto swap?

It's been too many years since I've done it

It is.
It’s removal is the hardest part of the conversion.

[Accelo]

I agree.

Originally Posted by geezer#99

It is.
It’s removal is the hardest part of the conversion.

My friend just purchased an automatic converted truck. All they removed was the center of the manual frame mounts out of the truck. I am confident it was done with a torch in less than five minutes. My friend pulled the motor and removed the rest of the mounts the proper way, by cutting the rivets. This truck also has less than two thread on the wheel lug nuts. Scared him when he found out. As the value of our trucks has gone up I am hoping the number of hacks has gone down.
Cheers.

[jimijam00]

Originally Posted by Accelo

Least inexpensive fix is likely the conversion to the T-5 from an S-10 as mentioned.

Oh, I like spending other peoples money too! But, how is swapping in a transmission less expensive than converting to floor shift or fixing the linkage issue? Could be as cheap as this.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by jimijam00

Oh, I like spending other peoples money too! But, how is swapping in a transmission less expensive than converting to floor shift or fixing the linkage issue? Could be as cheap as this.

I was looking for that.
Thanks for posting.

[Accelo]

Originally Posted by jimijam00

Oh, I like spending other peoples money too! But, how is swapping in a transmission less expensive than converting to floor shift or fixing the linkage issue? Could be as cheap as this.

Likely repairing the existing shifting mechanism could be the least expensive option. However, we do not know if the issues is with the column or the linkage? Tearing apart a column is not for the light of heart. May require some welding or machining. Possibly it's as simple as a proper adjustment like in the linked message.
The title is "Automatic tranny for 67" I am assuming the change over has other benefits to the owner.

[Mike Bradbury]

Since you are putting in the Camaro motor I wonder if you still have access to the donor? It is likely that it may have had the 700R4 too. This is where I got my trans that I bolted onto my 350 SBC.

The swap definitely has some complications but different supply companies have made it easy to swap them. I used Bowtie Overdrives for my supporting hardware like my TV cable system and my cross member. I know TCI has similar as well as others, from what I have seen they are pretty similar but the Bowtie Overdrives TV EZ is pretty slick system that is very easy install that is a set once and forget it.

A cut off wheel or an air chisel makes short work of the rivets.

There is no equation that squares the ROI in customizing vehicles. I bought my truck for $700 from the original owner and it was getting 8 MPG. I ended up changing the several components on the driveline and I got up to 16 MPG. Now $25,000 later I can get 22 MPG on the freeway with my LS/4L60E swap. Was it worth $25,000 to get there? Could I sell it for what I invested? Maybe. But I did most of the work myself so it really is a labor of love with these trucks. It is building an expression of yourself and what you want for the truck.
If you are just flipping this truck put something easy in it and sell it. If you are keeping it, build it how you want primarily and cost is a secondary detail. If you cannot afford if right away, slow down, save, and get what you want.

[HO455]

Here is a thread with a calculator to figure how long it takes to pay for gas mileage improvements. Just in case someone wonders.

https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo....php?p=8376873

[1967-C10]

200R4 it has overdrive, and bolts right in.

[HO455]

Just be aware that a 2004r will not tolerate towing.

[jumpsoffrock]

Originally Posted by HO455

Just be aware that a 2004r will not tolerate towing.

I don't see why you couldn't tow it home after it broke on you, but what do I know.....








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