How to delete the external voltage regulator?

[57taskforce]

The one wires don't always charge the best at low rpms. The 3 wire internally regulated units do not have this problem.

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

Is there a different way the one wire alternators are done? The link appears to talk about 3 wire alternators. Advantages/disadvantages for one wire vs. 3 wire?

Is it only the one wire alternators that won't start charging until revved to a certain RPM, or all internally regulated ones that way?

Well I'll take a chance again,

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http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

[dmjlambert]

Thanks. I am soaking this up and learning.

[72blazerblue]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

Well I'll take a chance again,

Paragraph three


http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

VetteVet, I have been reading on this the past couple of days and still haven't quite found what I am looking for.
I have a 1990 TBI that I am installing in my 67 c10. The alternator from the TBI engine is a factory single wire CS style alternator.

The above link seems to point out the obvious advantages of the 3 wire SI alts over the 'aftermarket' 1 wire SI alts?

I have not seen anyone specifically say anything about the factory CS 1 wire alternator. If it was put on these TBI engines from factory shouldn't it be still much better than any SI alternator?

[Canadian 72 C15]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

Basically blue wire to terminal 1, the white wire to terminal 2. At the regulator plug, jumper the inner 2 wires together and the outer 2 wires together.

I did this exact same thing. Two two jumpers with spade connectors. The two Inner wires and two outer wires on the regulator plug but now I have a draw on the battery and it’s going dead fast. I also saw someone say 1 and 3 need to go together and 2 and 4. Any ideas guys?
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[MARKDTN]

Terminal 2 should have battery voltage at all times. Terminal 1 is the trigger. It comes from the dash basically through the ammeter or Gen light. If there have been no dash changes then it should work as a 3 wire setup. Some people wire terminal 2 directly to the big lug on the back of the alternator, but if it has a battery source it is supposed to work better. Use a multimeter and see if with engine off you have battery voltage on the terminal 2 wire. They may be reversed.


Edit
After careful look at a diagram, I did have that wrong. It should be brown wire jumpered to white on #1 for the trigger and orange wire jumpered to blue for battery voltage on #2. Sorry about that.

I think in the old days we switched function on the 2 small wires, but now I would not do that as it makes it harder to diagnose somebody elses wiring mess. Leaving the colors as GM intended them makes later diagnosis by somebody new much easier. I tried to go back and fix the original post but it is too old to edit.

[72SB]

IMHO, 3 wire using a solid state external regulator (Tuff Stuff) vs 1 wire alt swap.

My 72 came with a 1 wire conversion....I switched it back to 3 wire. Also if running a Pertronix or HEI dizzy with a 3 wire alt, use the solid state VR