Rack or new Box and Pivot Points

[PbFut]

I have been thinking about this for some time and can’t come to a conclusion. Most comments I see on Rack and Pinion conversion kits are not enthusiastic. So the idea of a R&P kit has me questioning if the feel is there or just another aftermarket part to sell that has a $1000 placebo effect, and adds no real lift and possibly a lot of headache.
POL has a kit that they say will work on a C20 with disc brakes. Any one with first hand experience? Fitment? Net result?
https://www.performanceonline.com/19...nd-pinion-kit/
My other option is to swap out all the pivot points and replace the currant 4.5 turn box with a 3 turn from Red Head.
https://www.redheadsteeringgears.com...0Truck%20(2WD)
This will stiffen the feel that is needed. I have gotten so use to racks I am missing the feel.
Given we have the steering connections front of the axle line and everything I have read says aft of line gives the preferred feel. I am thinking I probably am chasing unobtanium. I think it was Richard Petty who would swap the knuckles on his race cars and flip everything around in the early 60s to get this setup.
POL also has a set of control arms that is said to improve feel. Likely a caster push to the front I believe. That will improve centering force and wander.
https://www.performanceonline.com/po...c20-c30-truck/
We have 50 year old hardware so I get it. I can’t help to chase improvements as advertised if they actually work. Any thoughts on these “upgrades”?

[TTurbo565]

What modifications have you done to the truck? Unless you are racing the truck there are not a lot of changes that need to be made. Your tire choice will have a big impact on what choices you make on parts. I lowered mine and run 295/35/ZR19s on the front and was worried about the front tracking on cracks and ruts. I upgraded to 1 ton springs in the front to keep it firm. I replaced the control arm and links with Hotchkis parts and the spindles with McGaughys. It drives great. The only thing I did wrong was put too much caster into the alignment. I have -10/-10.5 and it makes the steering really heavy. I plan on reducing it to about -7 degrees and see how that goes.

[PbFut]

That is a lot of caster on a heavy rig. No racing. I agree, when correctly restored these trucks travel quit nicely. It is why I asked the question. Given the lack of information on swap results, I think I will simply replace all the pivot points and steering box. It will feel like new again. I can put the savings into other improvements.

[May70]

Im debating the same issue. My biggest hang up is nolimit cant tell me for certain if the R&P will interfere with the stock sway bar (stock control arms). I feel like the R&P setup is better for the long haul but I don't want to have to buy a new sway bar etc to make it work.

Im not building a race truck or anything, just a nice c20 driver/tower, standard height.

My plan is to get the engine/trans mounted and see clearances etc. Unfortunately that might be a few months out because the mounts/crossmember I want are not available..

[SCOTI]

Stock steering boxes have worked for 50+ years under these trucks.... I'd call that working for the long haul.

That being said, it's easy to make these trucks better. These mods make an improvement:

*Increasing Caster (should be standard when wanting improvements).
*Tighter steering via fresh Tie-Rods + a better ratio steering box (13:1 vs factory 16:1).
*Better (current vs. 70's) alignment specs.

Since a C20 was mentioned, while not a 67-72, the front suspension is basically the same under my Squarebody CC dually. It has the Caster mod, updated Redhead steering box, all new pivot joints, & cleaned + greased a-arm bushings. It drives like a 2wd sport truck w/o 'sport' tires (has Michelin LT's). Mine also benefits from a lower center of gravity but one can make nice improvements w/o lowering as well.