Door Gaps grrrrr - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**Johnl48** · 07-21-2022, 06:50 PM

I've spent around 40 hrs trying to line up panel gaps on aftermarket fenders and doors. I have everything nearly perfect except door gaps in the window areas. The closest I can get is 7/16" in front and 3/8" in rear. I can not move the doors anymore as the lowers gaps are right. What are the tolerances in these areas?

These photos are with weather stripping installed

**HO455** · 07-21-2022, 08:52 PM

What is the gap on the bottom? Do the body lines below the windows line up?

Some folks have had to cut the spot welds on the window frame and reposition the frame and reweld the frame. I need to do it on my Burban. The frame wasn't installed square and true to the door. But, it was good enough for GM back in 67.

May70 · 07-21-2022, 09:06 PM

Align the door to the rocker and back side of cab/body lines.

Fender should have enough adjustment to gap based on that. You may have to split the difference in a sense between the door and the fender, then adjust the hoop.

Gap the hoop to fit as desired. Some apparently have bent the hoop with force or used a BFH. I tried those and was worried about damaging the hinges (while mounted on the truck). I will probably cut the hoop at the joint, then use a bfh to move where desired and reweld.

Once you get it pretty close mark around the hinges with a paint pen or marker so you can locate it. I wouldn't drill locator holes until you are ready for final bodywork.

Some are a lot easier than others. It just depends how close they were to start. Just my experience but wouldn't say I'm great or very experienced at it.

**Johnl48** · 07-21-2022, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HO455

What is the gap on the bottom? Do the body lines below the windows line up?

Some folks have had to cut the spot welds on the window frame and reposition the frame and reweld the frame. I need to do it on my Burban. The frame wasn't installed square and true to the door. But, it was good enough for GM back in 67.

I got the front bottom and back gaps almost perfect. The door can't go up anymore as the body line will not line up to cab also the curved section on top is tight to the cab . It looks like the frame isn't wide enough to fit the space to have 3/16" gaps front and back

hugger6933 · 07-21-2022, 09:20 PM

You wont even need a small hammer to move the hoop if you get the welds drilled out. I have one of those fancy [rolling] truck tools spot weld driller outer thingy[ about $400 something] and it stays in the box most of the time I use a HF double ended drill bit[1/8] and also a HF drill bit that has many sizes on it some call it a christmas tree bit. I think it works as well as the spot weld cutter. After you drill out the hoop welds I have a Steck brand tool that is called a spot weld splitter and I run it down in there but if your dead on with the centering of the drill bits you may not even need it. The best test to try before this action is to put in the vent glass and check its fit. Now sometimes on some doors you could push forward on the hoop with a portopower. Place one end at the bottom back like where the lock knob would be and the other end up by the top of where the vent glass would be and give it a push That will tighten the gap by the A pillar[more to the top] and also open the b pillar and cab corner gap. Good luck if I can help holler. Jim

07-21-2022, 06:50 PM	#1
Johnl48 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2021 Location: West milford nj Posts: 348	Door Gaps grrrrr I've spent around 40 hrs trying to line up panel gaps on aftermarket fenders and doors. I have everything nearly perfect except door gaps in the window areas. The closest I can get is 7/16" in front and 3/8" in rear. I can not move the doors anymore as the lowers gaps are right. What are the tolerances in these areas? These photos are with weather stripping installed

07-21-2022, 08:52 PM	#2
HO455 Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 11,607	Re: Door Gaps grrrrr What is the gap on the bottom? Do the body lines below the windows line up? Some folks have had to cut the spot welds on the window frame and reposition the frame and reweld the frame. I need to do it on my Burban. The frame wasn't installed square and true to the door. But, it was good enough for GM back in 67. __________________ Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377

07-21-2022, 09:06 PM	#3
May70 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: Hampton Roads VA Posts: 643	Re: Door Gaps grrrrr Align the door to the rocker and back side of cab/body lines. Fender should have enough adjustment to gap based on that. You may have to split the difference in a sense between the door and the fender, then adjust the hoop. Gap the hoop to fit as desired. Some apparently have bent the hoop with force or used a BFH. I tried those and was worried about damaging the hinges (while mounted on the truck). I will probably cut the hoop at the joint, then use a bfh to move where desired and reweld. Once you get it pretty close mark around the hinges with a paint pen or marker so you can locate it. I wouldn't drill locator holes until you are ready for final bodywork. Some are a lot easier than others. It just depends how close they were to start. Just my experience but wouldn't say I'm great or very experienced at it. __________________ 70 C20 Build link : Project Montezuma http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=794479 How to repair that rusted out 67-72 c10-c30! Please subscribe! https://www.youtube.com/c/MaycoCustomRestorations

07-21-2022, 09:20 PM	#5
hugger6933 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Marianna Arkansas Posts: 7,280	Re: Door Gaps grrrrr You wont even need a small hammer to move the hoop if you get the welds drilled out. I have one of those fancy [rolling] truck tools spot weld driller outer thingy[ about $400 something] and it stays in the box most of the time I use a HF double ended drill bit[1/8] and also a HF drill bit that has many sizes on it some call it a christmas tree bit. I think it works as well as the spot weld cutter. After you drill out the hoop welds I have a Steck brand tool that is called a spot weld splitter and I run it down in there but if your dead on with the centering of the drill bits you may not even need it. The best test to try before this action is to put in the vent glass and check its fit. Now sometimes on some doors you could push forward on the hoop with a portopower. Place one end at the bottom back like where the lock knob would be and the other end up by the top of where the vent glass would be and give it a push That will tighten the gap by the A pillar[more to the top] and also open the b pillar and cab corner gap. Good luck if I can help holler. Jim



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