47-59 Help! Transmission acting up?

[Chopped53]

I'm hoping one of you truck gurus can help me troubleshoot my problem.

I've got a a '53 Chev with a crate 350 and 4L65E automatic transmission "connect and cruise" package from Chevy Performance. We installed everything about three years ago and have put on about 8000 trouble-free miles since then.

Until now.

Been doing a lot of highway driving lately and it's been hot (at least for Canada). This weekend I drove a hour or two north of the city for a show, then the next day drove a couple hours south for another show.

On the way home last night, cruising along in top gear at 2100 RPM (65 mph), the transmission just quit pulling. I popped it into neutral and coasted along until I could pull over. Then, I shut off the engine, put the car in park and checked it out. No visible problems, no funny smells, fluid levels all clean and good.

Got back in the truck and it wouldn't start. Had to get it towed home.

It did a similar thing earlier in the day as I was leaving the show. I was in first gear just pulling out and the transmission seemed to disengage. I pulled over, put it in park, then back into drive and it seemed fine again.

What do you think? I think it might be something electronic. Maybe the transmission "black box" is acting up? Also, I'm thinking my neutral safety switch might be faulty.

Any insight from the forum members would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

[mr48chev]

I'd figure out the No Start thing and that may be your answer. If the "black box" wasn't getting a constant voltage meaning that the voltage dropped significantly while going down the road it may have sent bad signals to the trans.

[Chopped53]

Thanks for your input, Mr. 48. I am hearing from others that it might be a broken pump rotor in the transmission, and that might also be the reason it doesn't want to start. Apparently it's a common problem for these trannys. Never happened to me before.

[duramax55]

maybe try to disconnect battery to reboot computers

[dsraven]

I would also say check the electrical first. when it last ran do you know if it was running high or low on the voltage? anything close to 10v will start causing problems. then start with a look at the fuses, any blown? battery connections clean and shiny metal? voltages at battery terminals and at battery posts should be the same, fuse panel voltage, ecm input voltage, etc. be sure to grounds as well, trace each one and ensure good and clean to bare metal. try the battery disconnect thing as well, both terminals, and then hold the cable terminals together to discharge any held energy in the system. make sure you have the radio access codes etc first. then reconnect the battery again and see what happens. if you can get it to start you could try Dominion Automatic near chinook mall for a diagnostic on the trans. I have had great luck there and also sent a few customers that way as I dont do auto trans. have no bad reports back yet.
can you hear the fuel pump run for a sec when key first turned on? do you get spark when cranking or do you mean it also won't run the starter?

[Chopped53]

Thanks Duramax and dsraven for your thoughts. I did some troubleshooting last night. It looks like the mechanical fuel pump has quit on me.

I'm starting to wonder about the quality of parts on these Chevy crate engines. The alternator seized up on me right after I installed the engine. Now the fuel pump is gone. I'm still not sure about the transmission. It's not like I have been racing the thing. My driving habits have been very gentle.

Has anyone else had problems like these with their crate engine?

[dsraven]

any luck with the transmission thing?

[dsraven]

on the trans, check fluid level and color. if you like working under an oil spill you could pull the pan and see if the pick up tube seal was installed properly, the pick up tube on the filter fell off, cracked or something like that.
OR, try a place like dominion auto. they are pretty quick but will likely need to keep it for 1/2 a day. grab a magazine and babysit I guess, the parking lot is small and tight.

[mr48chev]

As far as the parts failing, that can be due to a variety of reasons. None being crate motor specific. I've never seen a factory GM crate motor come with an alternator attached though. Most of those I have seen have been the 350s that a friend installed in a fleet of Cabulance vans that haul people in wheel chairs or even bed ridden in some cases too medical facilities here locally. when they hit 250 K the owner installed new crate motors and a buddy of mine did the work on them for several years. He also sold the old 4 bolt main 350's pretty cheap.

Personal experience says that dirt or sand is a fuel pump's worst enemy if you don't have a good fuel filter between the tank and the pump.

There is absolutely nothing I know of on the transmission that will or can keep an engine connected to it from starting if the engine will crank over. The may not sync right because of an ecm issue or wiring issue though. Meaning that the trans doesn't want to shift at the proper rpm for some reason. Several functions that are controlled mechanically in a Turbo 350 or 400 are controlled electronically in a 4L60E.