How to test power window voltage and where to supply power?

[bennylava]

I'm trying to fix my slow passenger side window in my 87 truck. It's slow going up and down, and it often needs a person to help it go all the way up. I have already replaced the window motor and the regulator with new AC Delco stuff. So we can rule that out.

If anyone knows what all the various colored wires do that connect to the passenger side switch, please let me know. I have the Power Probe (if any of you are familiar with that thing) and it can send power through the end. But I'm not one to go sending power down wires that I don't know where they go. Bad idea.

I searched around and I did find this, but I think it's for an 83 model, but maybe it's the same as 87? Anyway I'm not so good at reading electrical schematics. Looks like the passenger side switch is at the very bottom but I'm not certain where to plug in the volt meter prongs to test the voltage.

http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/tech...werwindows.gif

[Pontiac1976]

This on the site,: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=545416

[old Rusty C10]

have you tried simply greasing the tacks and the window felts

[bennylava]

Originally Posted by old Rusty C10

have you tried simply greasing the tacks and the window felts

Yes but unfortunately that had no effect.

If anyone knows, I'd like to know how much voltage drop you're supposed to see when the windows are in operation. My guess is that you don't want to see it drop below 11v when you're pressing the switch. Not sure though.

Anyway if I can determine that maybe I can just fix an electrical problem and avoid having to tear down the whole door and rebuild it.

[hatzie]

AGS extra fine dry graphite powder in the flocking on the tracks and wet silicone lube like Sil Glyde in the regulator pivot points and rollers.

Slow motors can be from the motor itself. The aromatics in the 40-50 year old grease can outgas leaving heavy grease that doesn't flow into things. You can disassemble the motor from the regulator, clean out the old grease, and re-lube the worm gear.

The motor ground path is through the motor body. This means the ground path travels through your hinges. Adding ground straps between the door and the chassis can beef up the ground.

Unlike modern vehicles that use relays to offload the high current motor from the switches... The stock squarebody switches carry the full motor current load so the contacts get pitted and carry less electrons.

[bennylava]

Originally Posted by hatzie

AGS extra fine dry graphite powder in the flocking on the tracks and wet silicone lube like Sil Glyde in the regulator pivot points and rollers.

I guess white lithium grease is a no go. By flocking do you mean the felt tracks, or the regulator's tracks?

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by bennylava

I guess white lithium grease is a no go. By flocking do you mean the felt tracks, or the regulator's tracks?

The felt tracks.

You can use Lithium in the regulator.

Relays to offload the current from the switches would go a long way. GM used a relay on the power locks but not the windows.

These windows were never speed demons.

[bennylava]

I have these two greases. Should I use the one in the tube?

[hatzie]

Either should work in the regulator mechanism. Grease attracts dirt so don't go overboard with it and don't use it in the felt flocked tracks.

You should be able to get extra fine dry graphite powder from the hardware store where you buy Hillman nuts-n-bolts and get keys cut. Ace, Tru Value, ...

[bennylava]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Either should work in the regulator mechanism. Grease attracts dirt so don't go overboard with it and don't use it in the felt flocked tracks.

You should be able to get extra fine dry graphite powder from the hardware store where you buy Hillman nuts-n-bolts and get keys cut. Ace, Tru Value, ...

Thanks I'll go looking for the graphite.

I need to determine if my vent window uses 1 piece or two piece window seals. I was hoping you would know. I had mine replaced about 10 years ago, and I can't remember which ones I used. I remember buying them at the Chevy dealer's parts counter. Don't remember anything about 1 piece or two piece.

I don't want to screw up and buy the wrong ones. But I can't be sure it doesn't already have the wrong ones on it. They were so road noisy that I ended up using silicone to seal up the gaps. So I'm afraid I might have the wrong ones.

Thank you

[bennylava]

Originally Posted by hatzie

AGS extra fine dry graphite powder in the flocking on the tracks and wet silicone lube like Sil Glyde in the regulator pivot points and rollers.

Alright I went ahead and bought both of those things. To clarify, you also use the Sil Glyde in the roller tracks, correct?

[TKCR]

Originally Posted by bennylava

Thanks I'll go looking for the graphite.

I need to determine if my vent window uses 1 piece or two piece window seals. I was hoping you would know. I had mine replaced about 10 years ago, and I can't remember which ones I used. I remember buying them at the Chevy dealer's parts counter. Don't remember anything about 1 piece or two piece.

I don't want to screw up and buy the wrong ones. But I can't be sure it doesn't already have the wrong ones on it. They were so road noisy that I ended up using silicone to seal up the gaps. So I'm afraid I might have the wrong ones.

Thank you

This video will tell you how to determine what your vent windows you have.
https://youtu.be/9YwM0piQ-OE

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by bennylava

Alright I went ahead and bought both of those things. To clarify, you also use the Sil Glyde in the roller tracks, correct?

In and on the rollers.