Rear differential bearings

[SkinnyG]

You're really going to want a press and a bearing splitter to change the bearings, or you can take the parts to a shop and have them pop the old ones and install the new ones.

Ideally you should re-check everything (bearing pre-load, tooth patterns) as you put it all together, but you can often get away with just putting it back together the same, and not over-torquing the pinion nut like a monster. There is a sleeve in-between the front and rear pinion bearings (looks like a deformed section of tube) that sets the pinion pre-load - DON'T distort it more by over-tightening.

If you have no money, you can do this. But sometimes "pay the man" is a good thing with ring & pinions.

If you don't have a limited slip in there, considering buying one now - this is a good time to put one in.

Post a pic of the pitting. You can actually get away with quite a bit of nasty.

[Chevy nutcase]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

You're really going to want a press and a bearing splitter to change the bearings, or you can take the parts to a shop and have them pop the old ones and install the new ones.

Ideally you should re-check everything (bearing pre-load, tooth patterns) as you put it all together, but you can often get away with just putting it back together the same, and not over-torquing the pinion nut like a monster. There is a sleeve in-between the front and rear pinion bearings (looks like a deformed section of tube) that sets the pinion pre-load - DON'T distort it more by over-tightening.

If you have no money, you can do this. But sometimes "pay the man" is a good thing with ring & pinions.

If you don't have a limited slip in there, considering buying one now - this is a good time to put one in.

Post a pic of the pitting. You can actually get away with quite a bit of nasty.

I have the bearing puller and press covered. I'm glad to hear it's possible to reassemble it as it was. I do remember a video of a rebuild where a guy reused the old crush sleeve by slowing tightening the pinion nut and rolling the diff so you could hear the sleeve sliding between the bearings. As soon as the audible clink stops you have it where it was and can stop tightening. I believe the preload was ok because there is no uneven mesh problem or wear marks. I spent a couple years at a job rebuilding pumps and blowers and was fairly good at spotting sharp or unevenly worn teeth. I'll be quite relieved if this pitting is deemed useable for an occasional driver