Dash wiring question - '69 full cluster

[bluschek]

Anyone know where I could find the guage cluster plug or connectors that go into the plug? I think I'm missing 2 conductors in mine.

[IMG]D:\Users\210038915\Documents\My Information\Personal\AutoProjects\1972ChevyBlazer\InstrumentClusterWiring\Connector.TIF[/IMG]

[zosoppp]

Originally Posted by bluschek

Anyone know where I could find the guage cluster plug or connectors that go into the plug? I think I'm missing 2 conductors in mine.

[IMG]D:\Users\210038915\Documents\My Information\Personal\AutoProjects\1972ChevyBlazer\InstrumentClusterWiring\Connector.TIF[/IMG]

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/bw900216.html
https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PC%2D12

[data89]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

The factory wiring harness is differant for a non gauge cluster to a full gauge cluster. You will not see much if any movement of the amp meter even when it's a 100% correct it just sits right above the hash mark.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=560609

Swapping A Idiot Light Dash Out To Gauge Dash

The following is for a gauge dash this gives the numbered position of the wires in gauge dash and followed by what it supplies, then number from idiot light dash you move wire from.
1-Black with white stripe 18g(alternator) This runs from the 12g R wire from voltage regulator and should have 1-4amp inline fuse.
2-Tan (Brake warning light) Original position 2
3-Pink (Fuel Gauge) Original Position 7
4-Tan(Fuel Gauge) Original Position 4
5-Empty(not Used)
6-Dark Green (Temp. Gauge) Original position 5
7-Black(ground)Original Position 6
8-Gray(cluster light feed) Original Position 12
9-Medium Blue (Right turn) Original Position 11
10-Lt. Blue (left turn) Original Position 10
11-Lt. Green (high Beam indicator) Original Position 9
12-Black/w brown stripe 18g use wire ran from the junction block near battery mounted to passenger side fender with 1-4amp inline fuse located at junction block end.
Remove the wires from your loom plug and place the colors in the # on plug that corresponds with the color from list above. You will need to replace your idiot light temp. gauge for a temp. sending unit with gauges. The black and white wire feeds from the 12gRed wire off back of alternator and requires the use of 1-4amp inline fuses, this wire you need to make and run. The DARK BLUE wire that was originally in #1 position should be deleted because this was the idiot light for the oil pressure. If you need more info. ask.

Hope it's okay, I'd like to interject some questions here as I'm doing about the same thing. I went from a 3 hole dash to a 7 hole gauge unit. On my 7 hole unit I'm using a brand new cluster printed circuit. I am not using the printed circuit temp and amp connections (just put tape on them to keep from touching anything). I have autometer gauges in the bezel wired separately.
I tested every light and circuit on the bench before installing to verify they worked. I changed the wire connections on the circuit plug and they match with what you've designated above. I have a good fresh ground on the dash metal. I've joined all my cluster lights and 3 autometer gauge lights to a single wire and attached it to my fusebox "cluster" tab.
Now, remember, I bench tested all the gauges and lights before installing. Everything works, BUT, my 2 front side marker lights do not work, my dome light stopped working, and my headlamp switch control does not light or dim my cluster lights.
I put an outside 12v from my PS to the cluster wire and only the oil gauge light shows a little.
In drawing a separate schematic for the temp and amp factory gauge connections, I'm wondering if the temp circuit connections have to be shorted together? The empty ammeter connections should not have any effect.
Any ideas?