You know what they say about opinions? Well, I'd like to know yours.

[LS short box]

Just thought but maybe a chassis dyno tune with your current setup? A good tuner will be able to tell you where the issues are and possible fixes that won't break the bank.
I would do the 4L60E swap using a stand alone harness. Then if further down the road you go LS the trans will work just fine.

[jgrote]

Originally Posted by LS short box

Just thought but maybe a chassis dyno tune with your current setup? A good tuner will be able to tell you where the issues are and possible fixes that won't break the bank.
I would do the 4L60E swap using a stand alone harness. Then if further down the road you go LS the trans will work just fine.

I think I'd like to go this route too. I've seen "rebuild kits" on rockauto for about $100. So, for $200, I can have a rebuilt 4l60! I've never been deep into a trans like that, but I think it would be fun to try. I mean, how hard can it be?

A few days ago, I turned both idle mix screws in a quarter turn. Immediately, the idle came up a little and smoothed out a bit. It's not perfect, but MUCH better. If I'm going to stick with the carb, I need to invest in a FPR and an O2 sensor. Or, I just need to bite the bullet and take it to a shop. Nah. I'm not taking it to a shop.

[geezer#99]

Try slowly turning either mix screw in all the way and see what happens.
Try that and let us know.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by jgrote

I think I'd like to go this route too. I've seen "rebuild kits" on rockauto for about $100. So, for $200, I can have a rebuilt 4l60! I've never been deep into a trans like that, but I think it would be fun to try. I mean, how hard can it be?

A few days ago, I turned both idle mix screws in a quarter turn. Immediately, the idle came up a little and smoothed out a bit. It's not perfect, but MUCH better. If I'm going to stick with the carb, I need to invest in a FPR and an O2 sensor. Or, I just need to bite the bullet and take it to a shop. Nah. I'm not taking it to a shop.

Sounds like you should def start w/a fuel pressure regulator. That gives you a solid starting point so you know what direction to go w/your tuning. It's harder to get where you want to be w/no map....

There's some good advice in the comments. Personally, I'd do any other EFI conversion set-up other than a Sniper/FITech style throttle body that has the epoxied ECU sitting directly above a hot engine in a heated engine bay. Add in the issues they seem to have w/RFI? Not a headache I'd want after spending >$1k for. Step up to the next level where there is more tunability as well as the ECU is remote & can be placed where it's no longer the heat-sink.

Knowing the gearing in the differential & tire heights can help guide your decision tree as well. The right gearing can have an impact on mpg's. The right gearing also can increase the benefits of adding an OD transmission.

And if considering keeping the SBC but wanting EFI.... What about the Edelbrock ProFlo-4?

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Option - 4 ) Get rid of the Eddy and put it back to the way it came with a Quadra jet and mechanical pump , All the other options are time consuming and costly , Be done on a Saturday project . How much do you actually drive the truck that you would have to spend BIG BUCKS AND TIME to justify the gas milage ?

I'd be looking at how that electric fuel pump is wired , if it's direct wired to the ignition it's not going to turn off in a crash and will keep pumping fuel .

"What he said!" Cant beat them Quadrajets for mileage! I get a whopping 13 mpg with a 373 gear...350/350THM

[RenoKeene]

Like SOCTI said...you need to know what gear ratio you're dealing with before you go too far. Might be part of your milage problem and of course it affects every else you're planning to due.
Very nice truck by the way.

[PowerdbyChevy79]

Go with the Sniper and a 700R4.. you will not be disappointed..

[TheKorndog]

When I originally got my K5 going, I had an electric fuel pump with the 1406 carb. What I did not realize was that them Edelbrock's are finicky for fuel pressure, meaning they don't like a whole lot. I tuned mine back to 4-6 psi with a regulator and that solved a bunch of problems.

Stick with what looks like is supposed to be under the hood. I think LS swaps have their place, but I like the resto-mod aspect of keeping things as original as they come. I got lucky with my K5 because my parents were second owners and only ever had body panel work and oil changes done on it. If I got something gutted out, LS all the way.

Throw a regulator at it, and adjust the floats/timing. I think you'd be quite happy with that as a starting point.