LFD's How-To "PorterBuilt Hood Hinges"

[thelonerife]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Now for the changes I would like to see Nate make or do and after talking with him tonight it looks like he will be doing all of them.

1) Is to enlarge the holes in the hood mounting plate about 3/32" to avoid any problem screwing the bolts in.

2) To provide the template needed for marking out the cowl bolts and slots on the face. You will still be on your own for the 2 bottom bolts in to the cabin and the opening of the cowl top to fit the boxes.

3) Pre mark all the pieces with a P (passenger side) or a D (driver side) just so their is less of a chance to make a mistake as you are rushing to get this done.

4) Provide (4) shims with the kit for hood adjustment (2) 1/8" and (2) 1/16" same shape as the mounting plate but with larger holes.

5) Maybe include some mock up hardware so you can save the SS for final assembly. This one he does not know about yet but it would be great at least for the hood to arm connection because this is the easiest part to mess up a SS bolt and ruin the threaded plate causing some big nightmares.

Just to clarify none of these changes are needed but knowing how anal Nate is with his quality I knew he would want my feed back to make it even better of a kit (if that is even possible)!

So if you have any questions or need other pics just ask!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Were these changes added to the ones being sold now?

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by thelonerife

Were these changes added to the ones being sold now?

These changes were made:

The driver side hinge pocket has a notch in the back side of the bottom to distinguish it from the passenger side.

The hood plates mounting holes were modified for an easier install.

Nate

[Rochlow]

This little spring is the perfect solution to popping the hood up when using the Porterbuilt hinges. They are offered by member Pickemup. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=541980

[six8burban]

I had to modify minds? What a pain in the ahhh! My fire wall had a slant to it, so hinges had to be cut to fit flush, anybody else have that prob? Fits like a glove now:-)

[six8burban]

....other than that little roadblock I love the product

[rkintn_68]

How much are these now , are they still around ?

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by rkintn_68

How much are these now , are they still around ?

go to www.pbfab.com to buy these hinges,...

http://pbfab.com/shop/hood-hinges

[62LS1]

Originally Posted by six8burban

I had to modify minds? What a pain in the ahhh! My fire wall had a slant to it, so hinges had to be cut to fit flush, anybody else have that prob? Fits like a glove now:-)

My firewall has a slight slant. I bought my hinges at a swap meet so I assumed they were 'fake' PB hinges since they didn't fit quite right. Looks like you had the same problem I'm seeing with mine so I guess I'll wind up doing the same modification. I moved on to another part of the project so I'll get back on the hinges now that I see I'm not the only one in the boat.

[lolife99]

Are you sure the top of the cowl is not dented causing the front of the PB hinge pocket to lean away from the front of the firewall?
I havent heard of anyone having trouble installing these before now.
I know mine went in SUPER easy.

Also,... before I would cut the PB hinge pocket apart, I would shim under the bottom to make it fit the front of the firewall.

[Rod Run]

Subscribing just so I can find it easier later on

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by 62LS1

My firewall has a slight slant. I bought my hinges at a swap meet so I assumed they were 'fake' PB hinges since they didn't fit quite right. Looks like you had the same problem I'm seeing with mine so I guess I'll wind up doing the same modification. I moved on to another part of the project so I'll get back on the hinges now that I see I'm not the only one in the boat.

Mine were slightly off also. I just tightened down my firewall bolts first and then I tightened the bottom bolts. This pulled the inner cowl up slightly. Also, the pockets can be installed without cutting you your cowl. You just have to cut notches in the pockets. Here are a couple of pics and you can check out my build thread, post #612.

Last thing, if you already have a painted truck and you don't want to weld the hinge mounting plate to your hood, I sell bolt on hood brackets that allow you us use the PB hinges without welding:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=679945

[invicta455]

Nice work now I see why my driver side sit higher

[mr_mister]

Subscribing. Nice write up, visual learner here.

[chadzilla500]

I just spent last weekend installing this kit, so I'm going to update this article from 2009 to 2016/2017 so everyone is aware on what to expect when they spend $440 on PB Fab hinges.

First of all I want to thank Paul (LFD) for taking the time to put together this awesome original thread/"instruction manual" since this kit comes with no paperwork. I have taken Paul's quotes and added my notes to them. I hope it helps others out when installing.

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Ok first thing to do is remove the hood, cowl and stock hood hinges. Then you need to find the center point of the front of the cowl area and put a piece of masking tape their that you can write on. Then from this center mark you will go left and right 23" each way so the hinges will be 46" from center to center. I used masking tape to make all my marks on so it is easy to change if you make a mistake and also it will help protect the paint for the painted guys. Ok so once you make your two hinge marks 46" apart from each other you are ready to make a template so you can transfer the hinge mounting holes and center slot.

After doing all of this measuring I felt it was unnecessary. On my truck (and yours may vary) you could just set the drivers side box directly in the pocket in the cowl and trim it forward so it drops in. Set the passenger side box as far over to the passenger side so it drops in against the stop of the cowl. *see my pics*

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

I have Talked with Nate and he will be supplying (2) 1/8" and (2) 1/16" shims with the next kits.

This never happened and would have been nice. I ended up making my own shims.

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

The very first thing you want to do is make sure all the bolts can be screwed all the way into the mounting plate. If you have any problems you should run a tap through the hole first. I had one that did not go and found out after it was welded in place. I have already spoke with Nate about this and he is fixing this so it will not even be a possible problem on later kits.

This also never happened. I had to run a tap through all 8 holes after the first allen bolt locked up in the hood bracket. I ended up braking it off and using a cut off wheel to cut the nut off the backside and had to weld a new nut on. I know, I should have listened to Kevin and did the tap first, but thought it was fixed...its not fixed...its worse.

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

1) Is to enlarge the holes in the hood mounting plate about 3/32" to avoid any problem screwing the bolts in.

I recommend to enlarge the holes in the hinge boxes and the shock brackets. As a matter of fact if you paint them before you install the hardware its almost impossible to get the hardware to fit though the holes at all. Do yourself and run a drill bit that is one size larger than the hole that comes in them before you start the project and or paint..

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

2) To provide the template needed for marking out the cowl bolts and slots on the face. You will still be on your own for the 2 bottom bolts in to the cabin and the opening of the cowl top to fit the boxes.

Yes this would be nice.. but I made my own templates in less than 5 minutes.

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

3) Pre mark all the pieces with a P (passenger side) or a D (driver side) just so their is less of a chance to make a mistake as you are rushing to get this done.

As described earlier in this article they did mark the drivers side box with a notch and its pretty hard to confuse the hinge arms, since they will only go on the hood one way.

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

5) Maybe include some mock up hardware so you can save the SS for final assembly. This one he does not know about yet but it would be great at least for the hood to arm connection because this is the easiest part to mess up a SS bolt and ruin the threaded plate causing some big nightmares.

The kit comes with 4 standard bolts and nuts for mounting through the top of the cowl into the interior of the cab. I was able to use that hardware for most of the mock up doing one hinge at a time.

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

So find a good place to lay your hood up side down and grab your tape measure. You will once again want to find the center of the hood along the rear brace. Their is a factory hole that is almost exactly center but double check it before moving to the next step. Once you find center you will want to measure out 23" each way just like on the cowl. This again is the center of the hinge mounting plate but since these plates are 2 1/2" wide now measure to one side 1 1/4" so you have a good mark to line the edge of the plate up with. Put the plate down and trace around it with a pen then remove the plate and clean all the paint off this area so you will get a good weld in a later step. Now re measure and place your marks one more time (don't forget the 1 1/4" offset line) and using a framing square you will want to make sure these plates are square with the rear of the hood and 1" in front of the back of the brace. This should also be about 2 1/2" from the very back edge of the hood. Once you have this I recommend just doing one tack weld per piece first. After both sides are tacked re-check your 46" number to make sure it is correct then finish welding. I only did about a 1" weld in each corner and I feel that is more than enough to secure the hood for good.

My truck does not have inner fender liners, so I bolted the hood plates to the mounted hinges and then laid the hood on the truck. I then shimmed the hood all the way around so it lined up with my cowl and fenders, tacked the plates to the hood from up under the fender. I then unbolted the hinges and pulled the hood and finished welding the brackets. It was very easy and ensured the brackets and hinges lined up PERFECT without having to do any measuring.






So overall a great kit. My hood opens and closes very smooth for the first time since I have owned the truck. However I wish they would fix the few, little, and easy to change issues to make the kit perfect and drop the price to the $300 range.. $440 seems high for what you get.




I hope my notes and pictures helps to simplify this installation for others.

Chad

[rob32472]

This overall a good kit, however just like every other "kit" this requires some work to make it fit each application. The manufacturing tolerances back in the day were far from good on these trucks and can account for the challenges listed earlier in the thread. The issues with having to chase the threads may have to do with the heat during welding, its and easy fix but it would be nice if they did it before shipping. Still the best solution I have seen for hinges.

[dan468]

Originally Posted by chadzilla500

I just spent last weekend installing this kit, so I'm going to update this article from 2009 to 2016/2017 so everyone is aware on what to expect when they spend $440 on PB Fab hinges.

First of all I want to thank Paul (LFD) for taking the time to put together this awesome original thread/"instruction manual" since this kit comes with no paperwork. I have taken Paul's quotes and added my notes to them. I hope it helps others out when installing.







After doing all of this measuring I felt it was unnecessary. On my truck (and yours may vary) you could just set the drivers side box directly in the pocket in the cowl and trim it forward so it drops in. Set the passenger side box as far over to the passenger side so it drops in against the stop of the cowl. *see my pics*






This never happened and would have been nice. I ended up making my own shims.



This also never happened. I had to run a tap through all 8 holes after the first allen bolt locked up in the hood bracket. I ended up braking it off and using a cut off wheel to cut the nut off the backside and had to weld a new nut on. I know, I should have listened to Kevin and did the tap first, but thought it was fixed...its not fixed...its worse.









I recommend to enlarge the holes in the hinge boxes and the shock brackets. As a matter of fact if you paint them before you install the hardware its almost impossible to get the hardware to fit though the holes at all. Do yourself and run a drill bit that is one size larger than the hole that comes in them before you start the project and or paint..



Yes this would be nice.. but I made my own templates in less than 5 minutes.



As described earlier in this article they did mark the drivers side box with a notch and its pretty hard to confuse the hinge arms, since they will only go on the hood one way.



The kit comes with 4 standard bolts and nuts for mounting through the top of the cowl into the interior of the cab. I was able to use that hardware for most of the mock up doing one hinge at a time.



My truck does not have inner fender liners, so I bolted the hood plates to the mounted hinges and then laid the hood on the truck. I then shimmed the hood all the way around so it lined up with my cowl and fenders, tacked the plates to the hood from up under the fender. I then unbolted the hinges and pulled the hood and finished welding the brackets. It was very easy and ensured the brackets and hinges lined up PERFECT without having to do any measuring.






So overall a great kit. My hood opens and closes very smooth for the first time since I have owned the truck. However I wish they would fix the few, little, and easy to change issues to make the kit perfect and drop the price to the $300 range.. $440 seems high for what you get.




I hope my notes and pictures helps to simplify this installation for others.

Chad

Where did you place shims when fitting the hood?

[chadzilla500]

Originally Posted by dan468

Where did you place shims when fitting the hood?

between the hinge and the hood plate

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by six8burban

I had to modify minds? What a pain in the ahhh! My fire wall had a slant to it, so hinges had to be cut to fit flush, anybody else have that prob? Fits like a glove now:-)

Mine also has a slant on the driver side -- I was planning to remove the spot welds and adjust the cowl square but your solution seems way easier