Gas Tank Swap

[SCOTI]

So my dually has 2 dead fuel pumps again (OE 7.4l TBI fuel set-up). This also happened right after getting it on the road in 2016 when I had 2 fresh AC Delco pumps

The driver side pump died ~3wks ago. The pass side tank/pump has been out of commission for a while now (years) so it's holding ~20gals of swamp juice.

My plan is to purchase 2 fresh tanks + Delphi (or similar top tier OE style pumps) so that there's no additional time spent having to clean the insides of the tanks. Going to yank the bed to R&R the pump/sending unit assemblies & tank swap effort. Looking @ the Spectra or Dorman tanks (20gal w/baffle) Any input on one over the other?

Going to prob run the later model LS style fuel pumps based on suggestions/input found on here. Not my first tank swap rodeo but this is my first round doing the larger 20gal vs 16gal tanks & it's going to be a solo project so any watchouts anyone cares to share?

As always.... Thanks in advance for legit input/insight.

[kipps]

Buy new sending units as well, if you can afford them.

Block the truck up high enough so you can comfortably lay under the tank, and lower it to the ground with a knee and a forearm.

Remove the hardest to access bolts first, leaving one easy bolt on the front and rear tank bracket.

Cut the hoses going to the tank, so removal is just a matter of dropping the tank right out.

Swap the senders left to right, so the sender outlets face outward over the frame rails. This lets you make a longer loop of fuel hose, and considerably eases future tank removal.

Find some way of capping the tank fill and vent opening on that full tank before you attempt to lower it. Otherwise, you're going to be splashing ancient gasoline onto your face when lowering the tank. Several disposable rubber gloves snapped over the opening and hose-clamped in place will likely do the trick.

[Dead Parrot]

On my 75 C10, I went with O'Riellys Precision line gas tank. 20 gallon. Fit was good. Only time will tell on durability. Swapped it about a year ago.

Since the bed will be off, if you have a cherry picker, run some straps around that full tank and lift it out. 2nd Kipps warning about full tanks wanting to tip.

Have enough fuel containers to drain the gas from both tanks.

[SCOTI]

We have an electric liquid pump @ my work for industrial fluids. I'm trying to get the ok to utilize if for draining the pass tank of the crap gas.

Driver side should have <5gal. I was debating adding some that day but ultimately didn't. Luckily it died as I was pulling it in to park/store. The not so lucky part was it still took three of us to push it into its spot until it gets worked on.

[kipps]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

We have an electric liquid pump @ my work for industrial fluids. I'm trying to get the ok to utilize if for draining the pass tank of the crap gas.

If you fail at that, this pump will get it done. Expect to spend 30 minutes in the process, but the price is right. https://www.harborfreight.com/oil-su...gun-95468.html

I missed the part about removing the bed. Bed bolts can be frustrating. The square shank of the bolt has a tendency to spin in the bed floor. If needed, consider tack-welding the bolt heads to the bed floor to make removal of the bed bolt nuts easier.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by kipps

If you fail at that, this pump will get it done. Expect to spend 30 minutes in the process, but the price is right. https://www.harborfreight.com/oil-su...gun-95468.html

I missed the part about removing the bed. Bed bolts can be frustrating. The square shank of the bolt has a tendency to spin in the bed floor. If needed, consider tack-welding the bolt heads to the bed floor to make removal of the bed bolt nuts easier.

Bed bolts have only been in place for 6yrs & were treated w/some anti-seize prior to fastening. That should yield minimal frustration, but you are correct. For my app, the floor is coated/lined which is why I made sure the anti-seize was in place.

The electric pump was just a back-up plan. I have a low volume/psi 12v Carter fuel pump that was on a Model-A that I'm hoping will get the job done.

[Dead Parrot]

Extra tip on the bed bolts. Put a heavy piece of metal or 2x4+car battery on the bolt head to prevent it trying to rise out of the hole. Should limit the risk of the liner tearing.

Spray some penetrating oil on the nuts now. Between that and the anti-seize, they should come loose fairly easy when you start.

[Street Smart]

Originally Posted by kipps

Swap the senders left to right, so the sender outlets face outward over the frame rails. This lets you make a longer loop of fuel hose, and considerably eases future tank removal.

Great TIP!

[kipps]

Originally Posted by Street Smart

Great TIP!

I heard it from Scotty Baccus, of Tejas Steelworks. He's built a number of these trucks, and sells LS-swap parts for them.

I goofed though. I don't know why I said the outlets would face "outward over the frame rails." Simply face the outlets outward, not inward. Disregard that frame rail reference.

[Street Smart]

Originally Posted by kipps

I heard it from Scotty Baccus, of Tejas Steelworks. He's built a number of these trucks, and sells LS-swap parts for them.

I goofed though. I don't know why I said the outlets would face "outward over the frame rails." Simply face the outlets outward, not inward. Disregard that frame rail reference.

I knew what you meant lol. I just replaced the non-working rightside pump and sending unit in my Dually. I added extra length to the sending unit before i put the tank up and looped it by the switching valve. Left side seems a little tighter, I would definitely order a R/S as an upgrade.