CPP Rear Disc Brakes not bleeding!!

[PowerdbyChevy79]

The Bleeder must point up always, also the E-brake cable is routed to connected under the axle tubes, not over it. This is a dead giveaway that the orientation is incorrect. Swap everything to the opposite side.. that will put the bleeder facing up an the e-brake connection will be under the axle tubes.

[PowerdbyChevy79]

Originally Posted by Tx70Gmc

Before i try to disconnect the front pin and rotate the caliper to bleed i want to make sure that the rotating the bleeder would make a difference. See the picture of the current installed position. It looks to me like the bleeder is at the top.

I just want to make sure before i take the time to remove everything.

The setup in this pic needs to be on the driver side... not the passenger.

[HO455]

I'm not sure rotating the unit so the bleeder is on the top is going to work without other modifications. See photo.

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by HO455

I'm not sure rotating the unit so the bleeder is on the top is going to work without other modifications. See photo.

What other mods would have to be done? The pic you posted is very close to how those calipers should be mounted. The twist in the brake line could be relieved and the excess cable hanging from the e-brake could be trimmed. That would clean up the look and allow the guy to properly bleed those calipers. You dont need the Motive Bleeder but if you already have it then by all means, complicate the procedure and use it. Dont let the e-brake cable dictate the caliper position! You may need to temporarily disconnect the e-brake cable so you can rotate everything without fighting the cable. Same goes for the brake line, the banjo fitting may need to rotate to relieve that twist thats in it. That type of e-brake is used on go carts and four wheelers and shouldn't even come into play until the hydraulic brakes are functional. Then route your e-brake cable in a least resistance fashion.

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by Tx70Gmc

If i rotate the bracket will it impede the ebrake cable from working properly?

Absolutely not! In fact, take the e-brake cable off the caliper until you get said caliper orientated and bled, then reroute the e-brake cable, reconnect it and trim the excess cable. This is what your looking for or real close to this position.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by Ironangel

What other mods would have to be done? The pic you posted is very close to how those calipers should be mounted. The twist in the brake line could be relieved and the excess cable hanging from the e-brake could be trimmed. That would clean up the look and allow the guy to properly bleed those calipers. You dont need the Motive Bleeder but if you already have it then by all means, complicate the procedure and use it. Dont let the e-brake cable dictate the caliper position! You may need to temporarily disconnect the e-brake cable so you can rotate everything without fighting the cable. Same goes for the brake line, the banjo fitting may need to rotate to relieve that twist thats in it. That type of e-brake is used on go carts and four wheelers and shouldn't even come into play until the hydraulic brakes are functional. Then route your e-brake cable in a least resistance fashion.

Not having seen the rest of the truck I was concerned about the actuator cable being long enough or able to make the 90 degree turn and still operate effectively. I should have stated that more clearly.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by PowerdbyChevy79

The Bleeder must point up always, also the E-brake cable is routed to connected under the axle tubes, not over it. This is a dead giveaway that the orientation is incorrect. Swap everything to the opposite side.. that will put the bleeder facing up an the e-brake connection will be under the axle tubes.

Nope . He has them on right this is the way They show it in the instructions and exactly the same way mine are .

Mine came from Quick Performance with my 9 inch .

Like I said I had to remove the front caliper bolt point the bleeder up and it bled fine .

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by HO455

Not having seen the rest of the truck I was concerned about the actuator cable being long enough or able to make the 90 degree turn and still operate effectively. I should have stated that more clearly.

I just hope the old boy we're tryin to help realizes that those brake kits regardless of who manufactured them, all share the same fundamental requirements. That e-brake is mechanical, not hydraulic and can be routed anywhere suitable. Let the correct caliper position tell you where to route each system, anchor them and your golden...

[Tx70Gmc]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

Nope . He has them on right this is the way They show it in the instructions and exactly the same way mine are .

Mine came from Quick Performance with my 9 inch .

Like I said I had to remove the front caliper bolt point the bleeder up and it bled fine .

That is exactly how i have them installed, per the manf. Instructions. However i just swapped the brake bracket from on top of the axle to below the axle and now i am able to bleed the brakes. Now i just have to figure out the pedal positioning and why i have to push it almost to the floor for the brakes to engage. Again, rotate each picture clockwise 90 degrees. I dont know why the post keeps rotating my pictures.

[72c20customcamper]

Glad you were able to get them bled. Rotated

[davischevy]

Originally Posted by Tx70Gmc

Now i just have to figure out the pedal positioning and why i have to push it almost to the floor for the brakes to engage.

Did you try moving the pushrod up one inch on the pedal?

[Tx70Gmc]

Originally Posted by davischevy

Did you try moving the pushrod up one inch on the pedal?

I drilled a hole 1" below, that's what the instructions said to do.

[davischevy]

Originally Posted by Tx70Gmc

I drilled a hole 1" below, that's what the instructions said to do.

Then try moving the rod back to the original position.

[Tx70Gmc]

Originally Posted by davischevy

Then try moving the rod back to the original position.

I started with the rod in the factory spot, lowering it made the pedal feel better but not solid.