71 K10, just stick with stock cam??

[MikeB]

Guess I've been lucky because in 50+ years of working with 265-400 small blocks, I've never had to remove a lifter from the bottom. But I did have to use pliers to pull out a few.

If pliers don't work, a tool like this would be the way to go. You can get them anywhere. Just google "hydraulic lifter removal tool".

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/..._AC_UY218_.jpg

And as mentioned above, don't even think about installing used lifters and/or a used cam. Even with a "matched" used set, there's no guarantee they will be perfectly "mated" (cam lobe to lifter face) in another block. For some crazy reason, we did things like that back in the 60s-70s with no consequences that I recall. I also remember using old lifters with a new cam. We must have been using stock springs.

Finally, I haven't had any issues in the past 10 years with new flat tappet cams and lifters, even with stiffer springs than stock. But today I would use the lifters sold by Mike Jones at Jones Cam Design. (I forget the brand.) You also must use moly lube on the cam lobes and lifter faces, and a break-in oil like Driven BR30 for the first few hundred miles. And run the engine for 15-20 minutes after initial startup, varying the speed between 1500 and 2000 RPM. Obviously, have a helper set the timing right away, and keep an eye on coolant temp and oil pressure.

Lucas and others also sell break-in oils, but I think Driven is at the top of the heap. https://drivenracingoil.com/i-304977...ak-in-oil.html