Door Hinges - Interchange ?

[Ironhorse]

Well it seems one of the things on my new to me OBS daily driver Tahoe that needs attention is the front driver and passenger hinges. Both sides are worn and need the pins and bushings replaced. Am thinking the hinges would all be the same on Tahoes, Suburbans and trucks? Plan is to possibly pick up a full set and rebuild them first, paint to match and then do the replacement of the existing worn hinges. Any words of wisdom or tips anyone cares to pass along with that idea in mind?

[Just call me Sean]

They're welded on. I think new ones bolt on, but you'll still have to grind the old ones off.

[1976gmc20]

I replaced the pins and bushings on mine but that still didn't fix the sag and latching issue.

So I set up a jack and very carefully lifted on the open door to bend the hinges back up where they belong so it would shut properly.

Oh, there's a special tool to remove/replace the spring. I borrowed one from the local ex-GMC dealer. He tried to loan me his door holding apparatus but I have no flat shop floor, so I just suspended the door from a big tree limb - lol.

[Ironhorse]

Not at all impressed with the weld on door hinges. That has to be a real "dime" saver for GM. Any tips on how to proceed with the pin and bushing replacement on those? Never did a set like that before. Always supported the door and pulled one hinge at a time, marking the placement of the hinge before I removed from the body.

[Just call me Sean]

I only remember how I did the top, I pulled the pin and let the door sag enough to get the new bushings in. I didn't put the springs back in but I saw a trick using zip ties to shrink it.

[pjmoreland]

I replaced the pins and bushings on my driver door, but it didn't make much difference. I believe the hole that the end of the pin sits in is ovalized, allowing the pin to flex. I have read online that one way to fix the issue is to jack up the rear of the door and do a small tack weld between the pin and the hinge. I'm planning on giving that a try.

I used an engine hoist to hold my door while I replaced the pins and bushings. I used the zip tie trick to reinstall the spring.

https://youtu.be/nhAZe1oTjEI

[v30crewcab]

I use a prybar in the door jamb, with a section of 2x4 under the door so it doesn't bend the outer door edge. with door open slightly lift up til it lines up right.

[Myself]

I go with the floor jack and 2x4 under the door method as well. For the oval hole, they make an oversized bushing to hammer in and 'fix' the hole. It's kind of splined looking. My S10 Blazer was so bad (before I got it) that I had to weld up and die grind the hole. It was actually cracked out to the hinge edge. It was also so badly worn down I had to add a washer to shim the door back up so the body lines were correct. WATCH THOSE SPRINGS! Wear eye protection, it's not worth chancing it. When I'm done I just loop some tie wire through the spring, then compress it in my vise and tie it off. Hold it up into the hinge with telescoping magnet tool, then cut the wire.