"Midnight Rider" 1970 C10 SWB Fleetside

[omodified]

Next up was suppose to be installing the steam port kit. Originally, I bought an Earl's LS0036ERL kit. This is a nice stainless hardline kit. However, when I mocked it up, the front lines interfered with the oil fill cap on the valley cover. So, it looks like I need flexible lines. I ordered a kit that should work, just have to swap some parts. Follow up to come later...

[omodified]

More finishing touches going on with the body work. Along with just general smoothing, this is the also time to just keep looking at it from every angle to make sure nothing has been missed. During the last inspection, I found a high spot on the passenger side roof that didn't match the driver side. Also found an area inside the gap between the driver side front fender and the cowl panel. The fender had some extra metal on it that could easily be seen and it didn't match the passenger side. All of these items have been addressed and all the extra holes have been filled..

[omodified]

I received the parts I need to properly install the steam port kit. I ended up using the LS0015ERL nickel plated kit. The steam port adapters that I previously installed are still correct, so I left those in place. I did have to swap the adapter I installed on to the back of the water pump during the engine accessory kit install. The original kit required a -4AN but this new kit requires -3AN adapter. I installed the new adapter with 567 thread sealer, hand tight first and then tightened two full turns. The four corner hoses bolt right up. The steam port adapters swivel, so they end up finding their own happy places because of the length of each hose. Once I tightened all of the hoses, I torqued the steam port adapters to Earl's recommended 65 lb/in. Next, I had to use a cutoff wheel to cut the last hose to length. This is the front hose that connects the distribution block to the water pump. Earl's provides the correct hose end to finish it off. With AN wrench and aluminum jaws in the vice, the hose end install was a breeze. Last, I used some Permatex flexible high temp RTV to mount this distribution block to the valley cover plate. This will keep it from bouncing around and making a bunch of noise. Turned out looking great.

[omodified]

Next up is installing the intake manifold. For my setup, I decided on the Holley 300-132 carbureted single plane intake manifold. First, I installed the Holley supplied intake manifold o-ring gaskets. As recommended, I put a little high temp grease on each o-ring after they were installed around each port. Next, I used acetone to clean the mounting surface on each cylinder head. Carefully placing the intake on the engine, I used ARP bolts to snug it down by hand. Following Holley's torque sequence recommendation and using ARP assembly lube on the bolts, I torqued each bolt to 45 lb/in and then again to 100 lb/in.

[omodified]

Got a few easy ones done tonight. I will be doing some plumbing on the 4l80e sometime in the future. For now, I can start with these coolant AN fittings. These are both nickel plated. I lubed the threads with transmission fluid and tightened each fitting by hand. The longer fitting goes in the rear position. The shorter one goes in the front location. I final torqued each fitting to 28 lb/ft.