Help. Truck won't start.

[Bud]

I've had my 72 K20 since 1980. She's had a new body and rebuild twice. I am getting juice (12V) to the starter/solenoid but to NO WHERE else. No ignition, no lights no horn etc, etc. Where am I not looking can someone come to my aid. Thanks Bud

[Grumpy old man]

Have you checked the fusible link , Junction box on passenger fender next to the battery ?

[Bud]

I haven't but am about to. I'll let you know what I find thank you

[Bud]

Thanks Grumpy. I replaced the fuse which appeared to be good and replaced the wiring that connects to the fusible link. No improvement. I am getting voltage to the solenoid but that's it. Could it be the solenoid?
Thanks for your time, Bud

[dmjlambert]

Nice clear pictures of the wiring at your battery and at the starter, and at the firewall connector for the wiring to go into the cab, and the fusebox, would be good to see.
How to post pictures: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=627506

[franken]

You need to follow the small + wire from the battery through the junction, then to the big connection block by the master cylinder, measuring voltage along the way.
There should be a fuse or fusible link (as mentioned above) protecting the wiring from burning up in the event of a short.

[pjmoreland]

Does your starter crank over when you turn the key? If not, then maybe you have a serious issue with your ground connections. I'd check to make sure you have a good solid and clean connection between your negative battery cable and the engine, and I'd make sure you have a grounding strap or two between your engine and the firewall. There should also be a grounding strap between the cab and the frame. Your headlight harness should also have ground wires in it that have a good connection with the radiator support.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Assuming you are recharging the battery with a charger, and voltage at Batt is good.
Look at the Bulkhead Connector -- the one on the D/S by the brake master cyl -- pull it out of the socket where its connected thru the firewall.
Peel back some of the black insulating tape and examine the condition of both the spade terminal and the fatter Red wire going into the bulkhead. If that gets hot it can separate. That was the solution to a mystery voltage drop on my '68 C/10 a few years ago. I had to replace the Packhard terminal and a section of 12 Ga Red wire.

Like PJ suggests redundant grounds can make a difference. Ground the engine to the frame, the frame to the radiator bulkhead, the engine to the body, the cab to the bed, the bed to the rear frame. The more ground straps, the better.

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by Bud

Thanks Grumpy. I replaced the fuse which appeared to be good and replaced the wiring that connects to the fusible link. No improvement. I am getting voltage to the solenoid but that's it. Could it be the solenoid?
Thanks for your time, Bud

The fusible link is a slow burn wire 16 gauge between your + battery and the junction block on the passengers inside fender . Was the fuse you replaced 4 amp small fuse ? the fusible link can be bad and still look normal the wire burns inside the high heat plastic coating , You can temporarily use a regular wire to test it but don't use regular wire to replace it , it can cause a fire .

here is a link to a fusible link

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BEL7...&gclsrc=aw.ds&