Shortening Control Arms for Narrowing Track

[Realnoisy]

There is very little information on shortening the stock upper and lower control arms to narrow the track. I know they did this old school and would like to see photos of C10's with this modification. I have read about removing 1.5 out of the upper and lower to achieve the narrow track. I currently have a 65' C10 LWB with '73 C10 1.5 sectioned xmember, bagged with 2.5 spindles. I'm just curious of how this done so any photos of the type jig used, links to modification, or any input would be appreciated. I know I could buy arms and dropped members from vendors to achieve a narrower track but I'd like know more about this modification.

[SCOTI]

I know about sectioning the lowers to pull them in but not the uppers (typically narrowing the lowers requires fewer shims for the uppers thus pulling them in).

Mine had the lower BJ cut out as a square section, removed the amount of material that the BJ needed to be moved inboard, & then re-welded together. The bump-stop is removed of course & the a-arm lip is trimmed significantly.

[Realnoisy]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I know about sectioning the lowers to pull them in but not the uppers (typically narrowing the lowers requires fewer shims for the uppers thus pulling them in).

Mine had the lower BJ cut out as a square section, removed the amount of material that the BJ needed to be moved inboard, & then re-welded together. The bump-stop is removed of course & the a-arm lip is trimmed significantly.

Scoti, any mods to the tie-rod ends after doing this?

[stefan]

Thats what i was wonering im interested in buying pb narrow arms and to move the wheel forward but what about the ty rod assembly or sway bar being narrowed,i guess i need to call Nathan at Portbuilt.

[SCOTI]

There's enough thread on the tie-rods that they can be trimmed accordingly. You will have less total adjustment in the end.

The sway bar will require trimming. But, this is already true when doing bags in these trucks anyway. The bracket that mounts to the a-arm will possibly interfere depending on the set-up. Aftermarket bags w/end links vs the fixed bushing mount might work better but would be trial & error as for what will work the best.

[Realnoisy]

This was posted by lowestsixty7 and are the only photos I can find on the site. I'd like to see what they look like mounted.

[SCOTI]

Basically, I have a set of lowers that were cut on the yellow line.
The material between the yellow & red lines was removed
The BJ section was moved inboard & then it was welded back together.

The lip was trimmed back to the shock mount & blended. The front lip was done a similar amount....

[Realnoisy]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Basically, I have a set of lowers that were cut on the yellow line.
The material between the yellow & red lines was removed
The BJ section was moved inboard & then it was welded back together.

The lip was trimmed back to the shock mount & blended. The front lip was done a similar amount....

Very cool Scoti! I was wondering what you were describing when you said you cut out a square. THANK YOU!!!!

[bdiamond]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Basically, I have a set of lowers that were cut on the yellow line.
The material between the yellow & red lines was removed
The BJ section was moved inboard & then it was welded back together.

The lip was trimmed back to the shock mount & blended. The front lip was done a similar amount....

I did a pair like this. I cut 3/4" and after blending looked factory.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by bdiamond

I did a pair like this. I cut 3/4" and after blending looked factory.

i recall that was the amount removed from mine as well.

[Rochlow]

Could you move them forward to center the wheel in the wheel well?
Posted via Mobile Device

[LONGHAIR]

Seems like you would have bump-steer issues with this?

[Realnoisy]

Originally Posted by Rochlow

Could you move them forward to center the wheel in the wheel well?
Posted via Mobile Device

I moved the xmember up the rails 1 inch to center in the wells. I have heard of stepping the arms instead of using dropped spindles to lower but never read anything about centering the wheels this way.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Rochlow

Could you move them forward to center the wheel in the wheel well?
Posted via Mobile Device

That could be done but would require larger diameter wheel to accommodate the change. I doubt 15" wheels would clear...

[bdiamond]

Originally Posted by Rochlow

Could you move them forward to center the wheel in the wheel well?
Posted via Mobile Device

The No-Limit guy has a build thread where he moved the ball joint forward like an inch or more. Used a balljoint ring from Speedway and a holesaw. It looked kinda rough, but apparently it worked.

[Capo_Customs]

Bringing this post back from the dead. What is the reasoning behind narrowing just the lower control arm?

[tinydb84]

Originally Posted by Capo_Customs

Bringing this post back from the dead. What is the reasoning behind narrowing just the lower control arm?

Most of us are lowered enough that the upper control arm needs a bunch of shims to fix the camber. If you shorten just the lower it will just require an alignment and not have as many shims.

It will slightly decrease the camber gain through the suspension cycle as well for those who like to roll a bit low.

[5150]

Originally Posted by Realnoisy

This was posted by lowestsixty7 and are the only photos I can find on the site. I'd like to see what they look like mounted.

Do you have a picture of it finished? Especially the uppers.