Steering wheel NUT

[ghackett1]

I installed a new tilt steering column on my 68C10. Works great but I do have one issue, after a couple weeks the steering nut comes loose under the horn button. So I figured I will put a locking nut on it, lasted a little longer but now that is loosening so I tightened it. Does anybody have any ideas or has this happened to anyone else?

[special-K]

Hey, join the club. I'm a steering wheel nut too! I'm crazy about my steering wheels!!

Oh, you meant the nut that holds the steering wheel onto the column shaft? That is odd. I can't see what a difference the new column would make. Is the spline mating well and the nut torqued down properly? Not meant to question your ability, just starting from scratch here. Maybe something with the shaft spline machining and each time you tighten it down it self machines itself a bit farther down, but not yet bottomed out. The only thing the nut does is prevent the wheel from being pulled off the shaft by accident. Does the steering wheel pull loose w/o a puller?

[Getter-Done]

Is this an Original GM column or aftermarket?

Is there a clamp at the bottom of the column loose?

Is the lower bearing shot and/or lost the ball bearings out of it?

[ghackett1]

Yes when nut comes off the steering wheel pops off😳

[ghackett1]

Yes all the clamps are tight, tilt, turning all work fine. It’s an eBay steering column bought new but not one of the premium brands I guess which could be my problem from the start. But it was like $369 on eBay new.

[ghackett1]

Originally Posted by ghackett1

Yes all the clamps are tight, tilt, turning all work fine. It’s an eBay steering column bought new but not one of the premium brands I guess which could be my problem from the start. But it was like $369 on eBay new.

It’s a new aftermarket 68 C10 steering wheel also.

[special-K]

Once the steering wheel is tightened down properly you shouldn't be able to pull the wheel w/o a puller.

[ghackett1]

Originally Posted by special-K

Once the steering wheel is tightened down properly you shouldn't be able to pull the wheel w/o a puller.

I agree. One thing I do remember is the repro wheel was just scraping the shell of the repro column so I put an 1/8 washer to keep the two surfaces from contacting and that worked but it seems like the wheel should should go down further on the shaft but cannot.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by ghackett1

I agree. One thing I do remember is the repro wheel was just scraping the shell of the repro column so I put an 1/8 washer to keep the two surfaces from contacting and that worked but it seems like the wheel should should go down further on the shaft but cannot.

If you put the 1/8" spacing washer under the steering wheel that may your problem. That would keep the wheel from seating all the way down. You would be better off grinding 1/8" off of the collar where the steering wheel is hitting it..

LockDoc

[72SB]

loc-tite....

[ghackett1]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

If you put the 1/8" spacing washer under the steering wheel that may your problem. That would keep the wheel from seating all the way down. You would be better off grinding 1/8" off of the collar where the steering wheel is hitting it..

LockDoc

I think you are correct. I think I’ll loc-tite it and install a new lock nut and see how that works. I wish now I’d spent another $200 and purchased an IDidit column. This column does look and work correctly - except for this issue but again like I said it could be the repro steering wheel that’s causing the problem. Thanks for all the responses and help.

[Warrens69GMC]

If enough thread, double nut it.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Don't know 68, 71 takes a flat washer and nut, and wholly cow id never intall one with a torque nut, seems that can screw up threads. Seems doc may be on to something,, perhaps the washer is too thick.. or perhaps its just not on the spindle quite right.. pictures might help........Tim you should talk to grumpy about having to use a puller😉🤪😁though I've always pulled mine with one.

[Accelo]

Unbelievable, they can't get this to fit correctly, this is a serious safety item.
Possibly the taper isn't correct? Another possibly is the spline count is off?
Once tightened the wheel is fixed to the shaft by hoop stress and it should be impossible to get off, without a puller, like explained by Special-K. The stock nut is 9/16 NF and difficult to find. Who knows what the replacement column is, metric? There is no room for a second nut on the stock setup maybe yours does?
Right now you don't know if the issue is with the wheel or the end of the shaft.
Do you have an old wheel to check it with?
Even with out the nut installed a factory set up can be difficult to get apart just after setting a wheel on the shaft with a little hand pressure. Good point was made, it may not be the taper angle but the size of the hole. Too small and the wheel will not go on far enough and too large it will bottom on the shaft shoulder.
Possibly some clay or putty applied to the shaft and then installing it will give you a clue on what is going on.
I can feel you pain.
Good luck,

[ghackett1]

Originally Posted by Accelo

Unbelievable, they can't get this to fit correctly, this is a serious safety item.
Possibly the taper isn't correct? Another possibly is the spline count is off?
Once tightened the wheel is fixed to the shaft by hoop stress and it should be impossible to get off, without a puller, like explained by Special-K. The stock nut is 9/16 NF and difficult to find. Who knows what the replacement column is, metric? There is no room for a second nut on the stock setup maybe yours does?
Right now you don't know if the issue is with the wheel or the end of the shaft.
Do you have an old wheel to check it with?
Even with out the nut installed a factory set up can be difficult to get apart just after setting a wheel on the shaft with a little hand pressure. Good point was made, it may not be the taper angle but the size of the hole. Too small and the wheel will not go on far enough and too large it will bottom on the shaft shoulder.
Possibly some clay or putty applied to the shaft and then installing it will give you a clue on what is going on.
I can feel you pain.
Good luck,

Thank you, I actually do have the original steering column and steering wheel. That’s a good idea, if the wheel gets loose again I can try the new wheel on the old column just for fit and also try the old wheel on the new column and check it that way.

[special-K]

If you removed an extra washer (if I understand correctly) that should fix it, unless something actually is made wrong. Like Lock Doc said, adding a spacer will prevent the wheel from seating properly.

[72c20customcamper]

Like everyone said the steering wheel needs to be fully seated as the splines are tapered . The wheel if properly seated it should not come off without the nut . You should have to use a puller

[ghackett1]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

Like everyone said the steering wheel needs to be fully seated as the splines are tapered . The wheel if properly seated it should not come off without the nut . You should have to use a puller

Yes understood. I have been restoring vehicles as a serious hobby for years (I’m now 63) this is the first time I’ve seen this situation. I’ll let you know when I figure out the issue, I will be starting with the washer removal. Thx

[LNP]

You could drill thru the steering column shaft and use a castle nut and cotter key. I gotta ask though are you sure you are using the correct thread type nut? What I mean is standard thread or metric thread. If you're using a standard thread nut on a metric thread it could just be popping loose because of unmatched threads.

[ghackett1]

Originally Posted by LNP

You could drill thru the steering column shaft and use a castle nut and cotter key. I gotta ask though are you sure you are using the correct thread type nut? What I mean is standard thread or metric thread. If you're using a standard thread nut on a metric thread it could just be popping loose because of unmatched threads.

Yes, I have the original nut and it came loose first, then I went to ACE hardware and I brought the nut with me and purchased a locking nut with the same thread size as the nut I brought in with me. So the size is correct.

[HO455]

I would think there may be an issue on the lower end of the column that is causing the shaft to not stick up far enough for the wheel to clear the housing. I seem to remember at one point having the lower clamp on the shaft mis-adjusted and it caused the wheel to stick up too far. Although mine is a 67 and I know they are different than the later ones. But it may be worth investigating.

Personally i would need to investigate where or what the problem is instead of fixing the symptom. But that's my own OCD issue.

[KW5413]

Speaking of Steering wheel issues...In a galaxy far, far, away...circa mid '70s USAF days...I bought a 1970 Mach I (loved that car). One day I was running errands in Tucson and while sitting at a red light, I grabbed the steering wheel and pulled back on it to reposition myself in the seat. The damned thing slid right of the spindle in my hands. Slid it back on but wouldn't hold. Dead in the water. Blocking the lane.

Much like now days in classic cars, I always had some tools in my vehicles. Jumped out, got in the trunk, got my vice-grips out and clamped them on the spindle. Well, folks, I got the car home, but I cannot accurately describe the difficulties experienced while driving a car, in traffic, with vice-grips. It's not impossible because I did it. However, I strongly recommend against it.

Come to find out, the spindle was stripped. Not only that, we discovered it had been wrecked. But, still loved the car...Even with issues I had later. 351 C 4 speed...

[Grumpy old man]

Nobody knows what you have going on without pictures !