M22 in 68 c10

[ghackett1]

Will an 11” 621 aluminum car bell housing bolt right in my 68 c10 for an M22 Muncie 4 speed conversion? It currently has a 3 speed manual and factory iron bell housing.

I do have the new correct fine spline clutch and 168 tooth flywheel also. I am changing the 3 speed on the floor to an M22 4 speed, I did purchase the correct shifter. It is a 355 sbc blueprint crate motor that I am installing also.

[Getter-Done]

Sounds like it will work.

As I have had a few (Johnny Cash) builds like this.

Your Main concern is the Distance between the Flywheel face and the (Clearance) distance the Throw out bearing needs to operate correctly.

I have built several projects like this.
My FIL once asked what year my Truck was
I answered: Which Part?

[Grumpy old man]

Is it a factory V8 ? The factory 67 bell housing fits a Muncie M22 the 68 and newer requires a spacer on the factory cast bell housing , This thread has some good information
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=814944

[special-K]

Are you using an automatic crossmember with that car bellhousing for the rear mount instead of the bellhousing mount on your truck 3spd bellhousing?

[ghackett1]

I was planning on using the TH350 cross member under the Muncie. So from the input I got from everyone I’m thinking I’ll be ok. One more thing do I use the same clutch fork from my factory bell housing or do I need to switch to the auto clutch fork?

[Getter-Done]

I would use the clutch fork that fits the Throw-Out Bearing (The Best).

Pay attention to the distance between the pivot ball and the Touch pads.

Also, the diameter of the throw-out bearing and how the fork (Holds It)

[CAMAROBOY68SS]

I used a 621 bellhousing with my M21 Muncie swap in my 68. I used the stock clutch fork and throw out bearing for the truck. My truck was originally a SM465 4 speed truck. One thing is you will have to change the starter. The 621 bellhousing take a different nose on the starter to fit properly. I had to take 2 starters to make one, but that was mean saving a buck and using what I had on hand. I also just bought a aftermarket crossmember to stick in it as being a 4 speed truck there was nothing there.

[CAMAROBOY68SS]

Some pics of everything going in. The advantage you have is already starting with a low hump floor. I found a guy parting a cab out and I cut the hump out and made a bolt in low hump section. Kept my stock high hump if I ever need it again.

[dagnabbitt]

Originally Posted by CAMAROBOY68SS

Some pics of everything going in. The advantage you have is already starting with a low hump floor. I found a guy parting a cab out and I cut the hump out and made a bolt in low hump section. Kept my stock high hump if I ever need it again.

Oof that shifter looks good right there.

[ghackett1]

Thanks for the info.. I’ll let everyone know how the swap goes. The original 307 in the truck sounds great, idles perfect and runs quiet but it uses a quart of oil every 100 miles! So she’s done. I’m looking forward to the difference with this 390HP Blueprint 355 and the Muncie M22. It should really wake it up!

[special-K]

Originally Posted by CAMAROBOY68SS

Some pics of everything going in. The advantage you have is already starting with a low hump floor. I found a guy parting a cab out and I cut the hump out and made a bolt in low hump section. Kept my stock high hump if I ever need it again.

I wondered about the high hump with this set-up. Is it that the high-hump makes for restricted shifter action being higher up on the lever? My cab is a low-hump anyway, but I like the access from the top of a high-hump and was considering if that would work. I see you now have that with the low-hump. I think that's how I'll do mine. I am also using an aluminum car bellhousing and automatic crossmember

[CAMAROBOY68SS]

Originally Posted by special-K

I wondered about the high hump with this set-up. Is it that the high-hump makes for restricted shifter action being higher up on the lever? My cab is a low-hump anyway, but I like the access from the top of a high-hump and was considering if that would work. I see you now have that with the low-hump. I think that's how I'll do mine. I am also using an aluminum car bellhousing and automatic crossmember

You can use the high hump, but with the shifter I was using, the hole that would have been needed would have been massive to allow the room for the movement. Going with a low hump makes it where your right near the shifter base so much smaller hole. I then used a 68-72 Chevelle Hurst comp plus "brain" for the built in offset to put the handle more centered in the cab. That then allowed me to us the boot and hold down plate from a 68-72 bench seat Chevelle as well to complete the factory look.

Also I should note that my motor is in the I6 location. My truck was originally a 292 I6 pickup. Previous owners did the V8 swap and just swapped out the one frame side stand. So if your motor is in the V8 location the shifter will be more forward. I need the big bend handle to clear the bench and it will clear a factory console as well.

[special-K]

Thanks for that. It answers what I wondered about. I'll just make a bolt-in low-hump. Mine is in the V8 position and it will have buddy buckets. I believe I'll need to use the same shifter, unless someone knows a sure fit with a specific shifter. I'm going for an 'as factory" look, too.

I might do something really different, but might be more subtle than I want. It would mean giving up the Hurst shifter (and not sure I'd want to). I have the 4spd shift knob from a Corvair 95 pickup with the pattern. It's the same knob used with truck 4spds and transfer cases. I could fab the lever using a 4spd shifter or t-case shifter. It would be a "Did GM do that?" kind of thing, but I think I'd rather have them asking that about the iconic Hurst shifter

[CAMAROBOY68SS]

Originally Posted by special-K

Thanks for that. It answers what I wondered about. I'll just make a bolt-in low-hump. Mine is in the V8 position and it will have buddy buckets. I believe I'll need to use the same shifter, unless someone knows a sure fit with a specific shifter. I'm going for an 'as factory" look, too.

I might do something really different, but might be more subtle than I want. It would mean giving up the Hurst shifter (and not sure I'd want to). I have the 4spd shift knob from a Corvair 95 pickup with the pattern. It's the same knob used with truck 4spds and transfer cases. I could fab the lever using a 4spd shifter or t-case shifter. It would be a "Did GM do that?" kind of thing, but I think I'd rather have them asking that about the iconic Hurst shifter

Well for info on the handle, this is for a 55-57 Chevy passenger car, I went this route because I had the handle on hand from my grandmothers 55 Chevy, we swapped the Muncie for a T10 with stock spaghetti linkage.

A more factory looking option that might work is a 68-72 Chevelle bench seat handle. They make the handle thats been converted for a Hurst base, but it will be stamped with the correct "Muncie" on the handle. Its got a pretty good bend in it and should defiantly work in a truck in the V8 location.

[special-K]

Great to know. I'll look into those. Hurst makes a truck shifter, right? From what I've seen I can't tell the difference between the 55-57 bench shifter and the 67-72 truck. Never seen both together. I thought yours was a truck shifter.

[CAMAROBOY68SS]

Originally Posted by special-K

Great to know. I'll look into those. Hurst makes a truck shifter, right? From what I've seen I can't tell the difference between the 55-57 bench shifter and the 67-72 truck. Never seen both together. I thought yours was a truck shifter.

Tri Five handle is the top photo with the hard 90 at the base to come forward. Then the more vertical one is the one they list for a C10 pickup, then the last handle is the 68-72 Chevelle Bench seat handle thats for a Hurst bottom.

Hurst makes a complete kit for the C10, but the base is a standard competition plus base. It will keep the handle more offset towards the driver. The Chevelle base (or 67-69 Camaro) has a built in offset in the base where the handle mounts to bring the shifter more centered in the hump. Since in those cars they needed the shifter in the middle of the hump for consoles and the boot plates.

[CAMAROBOY68SS]

Then here are the different Hurst bases. The top is the common Competition plus. Then handle just come straight up out of it. Next is the 68-72 Chevelle, it has a low formed offset to move the handle over, then the bottom is a 67-68 Camaro Hurst base and its unique offset the ends up being about the same as a Chevelle. On factory Muncie/Saginaw 4 speed shifter linkages, the chrome handle actually had the offset bent into them. Hurst just made special offsets so guys could cut the bottom of their stock handles off and drill the 2 holes. That's pretty much what your buying from the aftermarket is repop stock handles modified for the Hurst base.

[ghackett1]

Great info.. I will be using the recommended Hurst shifter for the 68-72 c10 truck so I should be good. I have the Hurst 3 on the floor and there is no obstruction with the bench seat. I wish it was taller but the swing is clear.

[tutone]

Sometimes when you put this stuff together with used parts, you do what you gotta do. I took a Comp plus hurst base and built an offset bracket for the camaro in order to use the correct style shifter arm and make it work in the console. Even with new parts, some peoples arms aren't perfectly suited for the most comfortable shift and it becomes a pain to drive. That is why I spend lots of time with my seat adjusted to suit me, and get that perfect recipe. If you get this right, that truck will be pure joy.

[special-K]

This has become very informative about shifter options. I have swapped Muncie 4spds into these trucks in the past, before anything for these trucks was offered. I used the Tri-5 shifter (IIRC). I remember looking at pages of Hurst shift lever configurations.

In a '71 Blazer I bought that had a 3" body lift and 3spd trans, I swapped in a TH350/NP205. I bought a Hurst His n Hers shifter which came with a stubby short shifter. I ordered, I think, the longest one they offered. I still have it. I also have a Saginaw 4spd out of a van that has a crazy long shifter lever. that would be like these shifters in big rigs you see these days

[ghackett1]

https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...1&d=1680782466
https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...1&d=1680782571

Here is pic of the Muncie M22 and the 621 auto bell housing as installed in my 68 C10. Also attached is the Hurst (Truck) shifter. Everything fit and works great. Easy swap.

[special-K]

Cool to see and know exactly what you did there. Very helpful.

To better describe what I MAY (maybe not) do for a shifter, is use the Hurst shifter but fabricate a different lever to look similar to a truck 4spd/transfer case style shifter, then chrome plate. I have a Corvair 95 4spd shift knob, which has proper pattern, and it the same knob used in trucks for 4spd/transfer cases. That would really look factory. It depends on the rest of the build. And since that will not be hiding the added performance features of the era, I think a Hurst shift lever/knob would be most fitting. Maybe I'll do another truck to look factory and do my other idea. I have a collection of 4spd Muncies and Saginaws. Options options....

[HotWheelsFan]

Remember not to mix "externally balanced" and "internally balanced" flywheels when doing swaps... 400 sm. block and 454 big block engines use externally balanced flywheels as well as some later model year small block engines.

Not sure what year engine the 355 is, or what vehicle the flywheel is from, just a heads up if you were not aware of the flywheel balancing differences.

Bob

[ghackett1]

Originally Posted by HotWheelsFan

Remember not to mix "externally balanced" and "internally balanced" flywheels when doing swaps... 400 sm. block and 454 big block engines use externally balanced flywheels as well as some later model year small block engines.

Not sure what year engine the 355 is, or what vehicle the flywheel is from, just a heads up if you were not aware of the flywheel balancing differences.

Bob

Thx, I am aware of it. I purchased all the correct items as recommended by Blueprint Crate Engines. It takes a special balancer and flywheel.
Truck runs like a scalded dog—Very happy with the results.