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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Montrose, CO
Posts: 328
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K20 help!
I need help with my 72 K20!
I replaced the upper and lower ball joints but now cannot get the threaded stud portion of the joints in the holes of the axle. When I have done half ton’s in the past, I seem to remember like I was able to install the axel shaft through the steering knuckle hole after the knuckle was mounted. The 3/4 ton Dana 44 seems to have a larger ujoint/ yoke which requires me to put the axle shaft in first and then try to work the knuckle around it and line up the ball joint studs with the axle holes which isn’t happening. The axle shaft is straight which limits my ability to work the knuckle in a way I can get the studs in. Does anyone have any tips on what I am doing wrong here? Thanks for the help!
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Jim 1972 K20 Cheyenne- 350/350/205 1972 K20 Cheyenne - 350/SM465/205 1971 K5 Blazer |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: upstate sc
Posts: 2,095
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Re: K20 help!
The axle shaft has to go in after the knuckle is installed
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: upstate sc
Posts: 2,095
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Re: K20 help!
Depending on the year 3/4 ton runs the same 297X joint as the half ton dana 44
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Montrose, CO
Posts: 328
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Re: K20 help!
The stub shaft yoke doesn’t want to go through the knuckle hole once it’s installed. What really makes me scratch my head is that everything was together with the original u-joint before I took it apart. I’m very curious as to how the PO made this work.
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Jim 1972 K20 Cheyenne- 350/350/205 1972 K20 Cheyenne - 350/SM465/205 1971 K5 Blazer |
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#5 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Colfax-California
Posts: 8,713
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Re: K20 help!
Looks like in the last pic the Ball Joint is not even installed all the way to center the shaft in the tube. Find some help from somebody that has done this before
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Montrose, CO
Posts: 328
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Re: K20 help!
Correct, the photos are to show the lack of clearance in the knuckle hole for the yoke to go through. I only have the ball joint mocked up in the photo.
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Jim 1972 K20 Cheyenne- 350/350/205 1972 K20 Cheyenne - 350/SM465/205 1971 K5 Blazer |
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#7 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Berryville Arkansas
Posts: 402
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Re: K20 help!
The knuckle isn't where its hitting. The axle isn't lined up with the splines in the carrier.
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#8 |
All about them K’s
![]() Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Entrapment
Posts: 6,582
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Re: K20 help!
That’s exactly what I was going to suggest.
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Tyler '57 3100 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=813888 '72 K20 Cheyenne: 5” lift, 35’s, front dana 60 blah blah blah… http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=662879 ‘69 K10 SWB: 4” lift 33”s… in a million pieces http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=805206 '98 Silverado LT K2500HD ECLB Vortec 454/4l80E: 6" lift 35x12.5x20’s |
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#9 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Maquoketa, Ia/ Orr, Mn
Posts: 3,090
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Re: K20 help!
The ball joints need to be fully installed and properly torqued before you install the axle shafts. As it was stated the shaft is not centered in the tube and is hitting inside the axle tube causing it not to go in all the way- this is because the knuckle is not installed correctly. Be sure to follow the instructions- I posted the procedure in this thread a while back, post #5. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ght=ball+joint
No difference between a 1/2 and 3/4 ton in this area, same axle, balljoints, knuckle, shafts, u-joint, etc. and it won't matter if you have 260x joints or 760x joints, they both fit through the same knuckle. The ujoint caps are larger on the 760x joints so it doesn't impact how it fits through the knuckle.
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'51 South Bend Model "9A" '56 Chevy 3600 NAPCO '74 Chevy Cheyenne Super K20-restored on 37's '72 GMC Sierra Custom K2500- in progress '08 GMC Envoy Denali '12 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali '17 GMC Yukon XL VCCA member #58596 http://www.nohrco.com |
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