K20 front hub-need help

[MARKDTN]

I posted this in the square body section but did not get quite all I need. I understand the install process now, but still need a small push on a p/n. I know there are some very knowledgeable people that can help me here.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=841386

I have an '83 K20 (non full-time)and I want to convert to manual hubs. What Warn p/n do I need? Is it 20990? 9790? 26241DW? What is the difference? Is MileMarker better/worse? The Warn catalog online does not go back far enough. Pretty sure I have a 10-bolt front axle. Thanks!

[special-K]

I don't know the part # but I'm pretty sure K10 & K20 take the same hubs with the 10-bolts, which is what you have. I don't know why there are so many part #s. I can see if I can find the box from when I put Warm Premiums on the '91 V2500 Suburban I had. I still have the automatics in that box. I don't know why the '91 would have a different hub from an '83

[MARKDTN]

Thank you! That would be great.

[kwmech]

1983 should be 10 bolt front axle. 20990 will be your choice for a premium hub. The 9790 is the standard hub with plastic inside of them.

[MARKDTN]

I always like to close the loop on an issue. I ordered a set of 20990 hubs. RH side went on no issues. LH side when I got it all together I could not fully lock. Took it apart 3 times and put it back together. Finally I grabbed a pair of pliers and made it lock-bad mistake. Messed up the plate in the cover that pushes on the spring. Called Warn and admitted my mistake. They don't sell just the cover so I had to buy a complete new hub (1 side). Tried with just the new cover and same thing, won't fully lock. So I pulled the hub and swapped it too. Locked the first try as it should. I guess that hub was somehow defective. Anyway, got it all worked out, just cost me more $$ than it should have.

Thanks for the help.

It made me a bit nervous to remove all the snap rings in the hub as the instructions say to do (and a few videos I watched). There was one right at the bearing retainer. If you leave it the hub won't go in far enough to put the hub retaining clip in. Mine did not have a groove near the end of the splines-also just as the instructions said it wouldn't. But with a straight axle There is really no place for the axle to go so I guess it is fine. I assume it still has a C-Clip in the differential holding it in place.

[kwmech]

So at one point you had automatic locking hubs. You remove the snap ring and washer at the spindle so the hub will go in all the way. There is a snap ring provided with the new hubs. This gets installed on the outside before you put the cap on. Having the snap ring on is required 2 fold. 1 to keep the axle centered in the steering knuckle and 2nd to keep the axle tight up against the back of the spindle to keep dirt out. So with that being said, having no groove on the tip of the shaft is kinda not that big a deal as the shaft will center itself when turning but at the same time will not be as tight as before up against the spindle. Replacement outer axle shafts have all the grooves cut in them if you ever get to that point

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by kwmech

So at one point you had automatic locking hubs. You remove the snap ring and washer at the spindle so the hub will go in all the way. There is a snap ring provided with the new hubs. This gets installed on the outside before you put the cap on. Having the snap ring on is required 2 fold. 1 to keep the axle centered in the steering knuckle and 2nd to keep the axle tight up against the back of the spindle to keep dirt out. So with that being said, having no groove on the tip of the shaft is kinda not that big a deal as the shaft will center itself when turning but at the same time will not be as tight as before up against the spindle. Replacement outer axle shafts have all the grooves cut in them if you ever get to that point

Yes, I replaced the original autolocking hubs. This is something I have been needing to do for 20 years now. If I had realized how easy it was, I might have done it a long time ago. For the last 20 years if you put it in 4wd it went in fine, but when you wanted to disengage you had to back up straight at like 20 mph for 100 feet or it would not be fully out; it would click. I just put up with it because it is really nice not to have to get out to lock hubs in, but it just got to be too much hassle to get them to disengage. As time went on it took more attempts to get them to disengage. I live on a quiet street but it is just dangerous to go so far so fast in reverse. Anyway, all good now.

As far as the inner washer and clip, I removed them per the instructions. (I did try to see if I could leave them but the hub would not go in far enough as you say). There is very little movement on the axle with them gone so I think it will be OK.