55.2-59 Battery draining

[leegreen]

Confirm you can make it go to zero - pull the main battery + connection ?

With the ignition switch unplugged you still got full voltage on the 2 alternator wires?

Your fuse panel probably has a relay for horn and flasher for hazard - they will always have power, did you try pulling them?

what painless kit # is it?

[dsraven]

the T pins work for pushing into a connector on the back side where the wire comes out so you can get a reading on voltage etc as the friction between the pin, the connector housing and the terminal inside the housing is enough to keep the pin in place and also give a reading thats pretty accurate. this is without poking a hole through the wire insulation on the wire so no mechanical damage is done. some guys do that poking thing all the time with the sharp end off the test light and think nothing of it. it drives me crazy because somebody like me, who works in a shop (used to), would have to find the spot in that circuit that is causing the resistance problem and then fix the spot by cutting the bad corroded spot out and repairing it. if you do that poky thing because you have no choice ensure you seal the hole you poked with some liquid electrical tape or something more than regular electrical tape. if you do use regular electrical tape use the bright red stuff so that spot sticks out like a sore thumb and the repair guy after you can easily find it.
end of rant.
T pins work good for that. I also have used a strand of wire pulled from a spare length and wrapped around the terminal in question when the connector is unplugged. then plug the connection together and that short strand of wire sticks out enough to connect a tester or aligator clip to.
another thing i will mention is that while the digital multimeter is great but for doing tests to find parasitic draws sometimes an analog multimeter is easier to use because the digital readout ones are always hunting for the number. the analog ones simply move the needle a little or a lot and o can give sort of an average number that is close enough for testing like this until you get right down to the short hairs. what I have also done in the past is use an incandescent trailer light with an alligator clip on each of the pigtail wires . the kind of light that is a sealed beam. disconnect the negative battery post and install the trailer light in the circuit between the cable and the battery terminal. you can do the same thing with your test light but you gotta hold it there or clamp it to the battery post somehow. a large draw will light the bulb brightly, less draw will light it dimly. you are looking for no light at all. simply do one change at a time and look at the bulb from where you are working. it is easy to see if the bulb is lit brightly, dimly or not lit. when not lit it may be because there isn't enough draw to light the bulb. that is when you start using the analog multimeter. it can also be set up so you can see it from where you are working if you have a large enough gauge. some surplus stores have panel meters which are larger and possibly cheap too. I have also done that trick using a buzzer from a car instead of the trailer light. for those times when you are looking for a draw in a spot where it is awkward to see the light or meter or whatever. if the buzzer is buzzing then there is still a draw enough to make the buzzer operate.

[Phungki]

Originally Posted by leegreen

Confirm you can make it go to zero - pull the main battery + connection ?

With the ignition switch unplugged you still got full voltage on the 2 alternator wires?

Your fuse panel probably has a relay for horn and flasher for hazard - they will always have power, did you try pulling them?

what painless kit # is it?

If I pulled the battery completely I assume it will go to zero right? Where else is it going to get power?

I only pulled one wire at a time in the ignition. Connecting it back once it made no change.

I did not pull the relays in the fuse box tho.