Quote:
Originally Posted by PbFut
Thank for detailed reply.
Given your reply, my thought would be to add a bus bar fed by the factory splice and increase the gauge for the jump between the factory splice and alternator. Protect the jump from splice to battery with a fuse at splice and leave fusible link at battery. The only way to protect battery meter is to turn off fans with a RPM switch. That's a lot if complicated wiring for a 50 year old truck. Maybe best to ignore the battery meter and use a volt meter at the battery and leave the fan power leads at the battery block to confirm a charge state. Rats, I really wanted to retain a factory appearance.
Any one know of a volt guage that replaces the amp for a 72?
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You're welcome.
Check with fellow member
T-Bone ... I don't know if he's still doing it or not, but he used to convert 76-87 truck voltmeters to work in 67-72 clusters. I believe he was using the 67-72 face plate to maintain a fairly original appearance.