68 longbed 5.3/4l60e

[tallic68]

Well it's been a while and I've made some good progress and have come up with some questions.







I've been looking into the bcm route and looks somewhat straight forward as long as you have the pinouts. Is there any benefit to connecting the serial data and class 2 data between the pcm and bcm or can you? Also how do you get the warning chimes if there is no conection from bcm to stereo leads. None that I see anyway.

Also I'm confused. Everything that I have read says that a 2002 truck motor dose not have electric fans and is dbc. My truck motor did not dave a mechanical fan and is dbw. Current performance did the harness and pcm. They left me an a/c request and wired in the e fans and the A/C clutch it wired into the main engine harness.

I'm getting ready to order an a/c system this weekend and I've read a lot about weather or not to use pcm to control fans and clutch or not. But none of the threads so far are close to my situation I think. So sorry if I'm beatting a dead horse with my questions.

If I went with trinary switch how do I control fans if they are already controlled by the pcm. How would I incorporate the trinary? By putting it in line
, supply- trinary - a/c request lead.

Can the oil pressure lead from the pcm be used for an oil pressure gauge? It was one of the leads Current perf left in for me.

[ls1nova71]

Wow, is that the same truck that was in the first post of this thread? Looks nice.

As for the BCM, what are you wanting to use it for? It is fairly straight forward, but you'll need more than just pin outs, you'll need several wiring diagrams. Also if you want to run the automatic headlights, you'll need a 99-02 switch. Also use a 99-02 BCM,, since they will have the retained accessory power that you can't use on the 03-up models. The older BCM's have the chime module built into them so that's why you don't see any stereo speaker hook ups. The serial data line doesn't need to be hooked up unless you're wanting to use the BCM for features that rely on a signal from the VSS such as the 'turn signal left on too long' chime or the 'driving with park brake applied' chime. It's also worth noting, that where you put the BCM will determine if you can even hear it while driving. I have mine directly under the top of the dash behind the instrument cluster, and driving with the A/c on and the stereo on, its kind of hard to hear. Turn the radio down and A/C on low and its still not as loud as it is in a new truck. With the engine off its really noticeable, so the headlight chime works great, but with automatic headlights, its kind of a moot point since I never turn the switch on manually.

On the A/C, if your PCM is tuned for an '02, all you'll need is the high and low pressure switches. You would hook the wire that goes to the clutch to the AC request wire. I'm not sure on the fans, but would think if the PCM is set up for electric fans' then they should come on when the AC request wire is hot. No '02 truck originally came with electric fans, so Current has just enabled them in the tune.

Oil pressure sender depends on what gauges you're running as to whether or not it will work. Your generally better off using the sender specifically designed for what ever gauge you use.
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[chuckmc8]

Originally Posted by tallic68

If you go back and read the build threads I posted it all should be in there I think. If not I used dirty dingo mounts for 73-87 p-up. The perches and clam shell motor mounts are from a junk yard 85 SB Chevy p-up
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The 73 and up truck frames are 1" or so taller than the 68 frame. Did you cut the mounts down or bolt them in the top of the frame and just drill new holes on the crossmember for the lower bolts?

[tallic68]

yup same truck ls1. and thanks for the response. yes i will want the chimes for tuns signal and p brake. i would want any option the bcm can offer. interior lights chimes ect. so i need to cut into the clutch wireing that is in place. and splice in the pressure switches. thanks. i have the wireing diagrams that were in a ls1tch thread on you rusty 71 i think so i should be ok. i think.

Originally Posted by chuckmc8

The 73 and up truck frames are 1" or so taller than the 68 frame. Did you cut the mounts down or bolt them in the top of the frame and just drill new holes on the crossmember for the lower bolts?

No modification the the 68 frame at all. with dirty dingo adjustable mounts, 73-8? small block perches and clam shell mounts, I didn't need to do anything. trans crossmember maches up with existing holes, a/c pump has cleaance with the stock lip on frame. All mount hole lined up from what I remembered and just bolted up.

[cagodinez]

Nice truck, I'm over in Perris, but I work in Hemet.

[tallic68]

Well. I’ve been out of it for a while. After painting her. I got burnt out and just drove her. She was my daily driver till about 2 years ago when I promoted and had to start commuting around 200 miles to work. Bought a commuter car and she sat in the garage since. We now have a 5 year old boy and with buckets we can’t all go anywhere. Played with the idea of selling her and getting a nova wagon or something that we all could ride in. But as I wrote up the description for Craig’s list and called some friends about her. I just couldn’t do it. And got the bug again.

Since then I have,
Ordered Dakota digital HDX (June eta)
TMI delux bench seat (April eta)
Installed tre5 tailgate kit on a new tailgate and Derlin truinions, trique door latches, changed out all lights to united pacific LEDs, carpet on the lower door panels, new mirror heads, wiper arms and heads, antenna, ss drip molding, cab paint divider. New window cranks and door handles. Auto city classic door glass and vent window assemblies. Precision door and belt line weather striping. Knock sensors. 5.3 engine badges. Auto wire classic update kit (not installed yet).

I really wanted to change it up a bit and play with paint scheme. After wet sanding the whole truck cause since I painted her she has never been stored in a garage. I got a “what the heak” attitude and vinyl wrapped her in dark forest metallic green.

I’m also in the process of installing mar-k lower body moldings.

My plan from here out is QA1 tubular coil over kit all around, CPP big brakes front and rear with the x10 spindles. Rack and pinion and hydra boost. Stage 2 cam and some rambler us mag 20s.

Putting her in her first real show next month at good guys Scottsdale.

More to come.

Thanks to everyone here that has helped me back then and now. And thanks to this forum for motivation and inspiration.

[mcmlxix]

Love the metallic green!

[tallic68]

Got the moldings finished.

[tallic68]

Been real busy the past year.
QA1 full suspension
Five lug conversion
Rims tires
Brake lines master hydro boost
Az performance big brake front and rear.
Altman ez latch
All new steering and ew quick ratio box
Chassis saver the frame
Spal 12” fans
16 pass trans cooler
1 piece drive shaft
3” stainless exhaust
Dakota digital hdx
Dakota digital retained accessory power
American auto wire classic update kit
Reworked engine harness moving it down the pass head
Moved computer to under pass seat
Puddle lights in bottom of both doors
New tail gat with latch retro fit
Amazon coil cove/ valve covers w emblems from a 63 impala
1 7/8 speed engineering stainless headers
Move battery to under bed
Dirty dingo trans crossmember.
Lockar trans linkage
Power master hi output alternator

[tallic68]

Couple more

[clay68c10]

Wow, you have been busy! It looks great.
I see a future driver in there.