Easiest way to add a key on power circuit for a dash cam

[Yamariv]

I tried searching the forum but didn't come up with much

What is the best way to add a key on auxiliary 12v power circuit in our trucks. Are there any open spaces in the stock fuse box or is it possible an external fuse adapter that plugs into a spot and makes an extra lead? I'm looking to add a dashcam to my truck but want it hard wired so it's reliable and always on when I'm driving.

Thx

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by Yamariv

I tried searching the forum but didn't come up with much

What is the best way to add a key on auxiliary 12v power circuit in our trucks. Are there any open spaces in the stock fuse box or is it possible an external fuse adapter that plugs into a spot and makes an extra lead? I'm looking to add a dashcam to my truck but want it hard wired so it's reliable and always on when I'm driving.

Thx

The best way to do this is through a relay so that the ignition switch doesn't carry the additional current required to power the camera.. Take power from the junction block near the battery. Run that through the relay and from there to the camera, using wire gauge and fuse recommendation of the camera manufacturer. Ground one side of the relay winding. Excite the relay with a wire from any ignition hot terminal/fuse at the fuse box..

[body bolt]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

The best way to do this is through a relay so that the ignition switch doesn't carry the additional current required to power the camera.. Take power from the junction block near the battery. Run that through the relay and from there to the camera, using wire gauge and fuse recommendation of the camera manufacturer. Ground one side of the relay winding. Excite the relay with a wire from any ignition hot terminal/fuse at the fuse box..

This. Save your ignition switch.

[PbFut]

Dash cams pull very little power. I don't think a relay is needed. Pull a line from the fuse block and put a 5 amp inline fuse on it. You will be fine.

[dmjlambert]

There is already a key-on fused position. Just plug in to the Radio terminal. If necessary, make your wire for dash cam that plugs in have a piggyback male packard 56 connector, if you're already using the radio terminal for a radio. Or you can plug in to the IGN UNFUSED if you put an inline fuse holder on the dash cam wire.


fuse panel positions




example piggyback

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by PbFut

Dash cams pull very little power. I don't think a relay is needed. Pull a line from the fuse block and put a 5 amp inline fuse on it. You will be fine.

Shows how much I know about dash cams..

[body bolt]

Originally Posted by PbFut

Dash cams pull very little power. I don't think a relay is needed. Pull a line from the fuse block and put a 5 amp inline fuse on it. You will be fine.

I know that but it's still not a bad idea. I added one with 6 separately fused circuits. I think many ignition switches have been killed by hanging accessories on them.

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

Shows how much I know about dash cams..

Sounds a little more complicated than I was hoping :S

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

There is already a key-on fused position. Just plug in to the Radio terminal. If necessary, make your wire for dash cam that plugs in have a piggyback male packard 56 connector, if you're already using the radio terminal for a radio. Or you can plug in to the IGN UNFUSED if you put an inline fuse holder on the dash cam wire.


fuse panel positions




example piggyback

This option sounds much more like it for me! I have a radio that's already using that spot so I guess the unfused open locations would be perfect. What connector is the one that would plug onto that male unfused terminal? Any chance someone would have a Napa link to it?

[dmjlambert]

Originally Posted by body bolt

I know that but it's still not a bad idea. I added one with 6 separately fused circuits. I think many ignition switches have been killed by hanging accessories on them.

That is interesting. I really like the fuse panels of these trucks and other 60's and early 70's cars, with their recessed glass fuse holders. Especially when the entire panel accepts uniform and common 3AG fuses in all positions. I've never seen an aftermarket fuse panel as good as these OEM ones. I don't care much for modern plastic fuses. I've considered buying an OEM panel and using it as an add-on panel for extra circuits, and relay switching it. The ones from old Dodge Chargers look ideal, like this one from eBay.

[dmjlambert]

Originally Posted by Yamariv

This option sounds much more like it for me! I have a radio that's already using that spot so I guess the unfused open locations would be perfect. What connector is the one that would plug onto that male unfused terminal? Any chance someone would have a Napa link to it?

I've not had much luck with Napa's website, its search function and overall functionality is bad, so I avoid it. What you're looking for is Packard 56 series terminals and connectors. The terminals are the metal tab part, and the connector is the plastic outer part. The terminals are made to fit wires of various gauges. It requires a very expensive crimper to put them on correctly. I use an inexpensive crimper that gets it done OK but not perfect, and I perfect the connection by soldering to finish the crimped joint. I can't endorse this company in the link below, but their website has the connectors and terminals. I prefer using Packard 56 over car parts store spade connectors despite my inability to make a good crimp joint. I'm also no good at making a good crimp joint on car parts store spade connectors.
https://www.delcity.net/store/Packar...nectors/p_9108

[body bolt]

I didn't change the panel. I added two 6 circuit fuse boxes under the hood by the battery, one switched and one unswitched. The switched feeds the CB radios and the HEI. Right now the unswitched feeds a relay that controls the A/C clutch to insure it sees a solid 12V I've burned up a couple of A/C clutches which I blame on low coil voltage causing the clutch to slip. The unswitched will eventually also feed the headlights when I put in that relay harness.

That Chrysler box looks pretty good. I don't mind the blade fuses as these days they're easier to find.

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

I've not had much luck with Napa's website, its search function and overall functionality is bad, so I avoid it. What you're looking for is Packard 56 series terminals and connectors. The terminals are the metal tab part, and the connector is the plastic outer part. The terminals are made to fit wires of various gauges. It requires a very expensive crimper to put them on correctly. I use an inexpensive crimper that gets it done OK but not perfect, and I perfect the connection by soldering to finish the crimped joint. I can't endorse this company in the link below, but their website has the connectors and terminals. I prefer using Packard 56 over car parts store spade connectors despite my inability to make a good crimp joint. I'm also no good at making a good crimp joint on car parts store spade connectors.
https://www.delcity.net/store/Packar...nectors/p_9108

Yeah I hear you about the Napa site, Napa Canada site is brutal to search. I found this on the US site, they call it a GM56 terminal, looks the same as the Packard link you sent. You think they are the same?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NW_725147

[dmjlambert]

Yes it is a Packard 56. That is the terminal. That one is for 14 to 16 gauge wire. I like to use those with the matching plastic connector, show in the picture I posted in post #9 above.

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

Yes it is a Packard 56. That is the terminal. I like to use those with the matching plastic connector, show in the picture I posted in post #9 above.

Sweet, thank you! Looks like I actually found the plastic connector too on the Napa site, can't believe it!

What size inline fuse would be best for a dashcam? I'm guessing pretty small?

https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/NWA725146

[dmjlambert]

You're a Napa online wizard! The dashcam instructions will tell you fuse size or it may come with an inline fuse holder with a fuse in it. Probably 2 or 3 amp, just guessing.

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

You're a Napa online wizard! The dashcam instructions will tell you fuse size or it may come with an inline fuse holder with a fuse in it. Probably 2 or 3 amp, just guessing.

Awesome, thank for all the help!

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

That is interesting. I really like the fuse panels of these trucks and other 60's and early 70's cars, with their recessed glass fuse holders. Especially when the entire panel accepts uniform and common 3AG fuses in all positions. I've never seen an aftermarket fuse panel as good as these OEM ones. I don't care much for modern plastic fuses. I've considered buying an OEM panel and using it as an add-on panel for extra circuits, and relay switching it. The ones from old Dodge Chargers look ideal, like this one from eBay.

That looks like more rust than I would like. You can buy them new.

https://www.sierraparts.com/en-us/po...fs40900-319689