1986 K10 Short Bed Build

[aotte1]

Photos of engine ready to start. Primed the Edelbrock carb, new with three syringe shots of fuel into each bowl. Started instantly before could get key all thenway on. Timed a little retarded, adjusted to 34 degrees, and adjusted idle mixture ( it was lean) reduced choke spring pressure. Did a few more carb adjustment during first two start ups.
Battery not charging, as had not fully installed wiring ( a switched 12 volt power supply w/ 500 ohm resistor in line). Photo of ACDELCO PT 2145 Wire connector for CS130 alternator ( 12 volt switched power w/resistor wire) when used in pre 1987 trucks. (modified PT 2145 yellow wire end going to switch power). Last photo shows the end to be modified. Ordered from Amazon, Summit only has a few.

[aotte1]

Exhaust Pipe Around 700R4 Shift Linksge

The location of header exit will effect routing around 700R4 shift linkage (transmission to frame section). This application requires significant pipe routing at header exit to avoid the shift linkage. The header exit is well up within the frame.

[aotte1]

Right Side Exhaust Pipe - Dual Tank Switch

Photo showing right side exhaust pipe, 2.5” mandrel bent routing around the transfer case and dual gas tank switch ( the switch set-up is dark, kind of hard to see). The bottom part of photo outside frame rail shows right side gas tank removed, along with new hoses that will connect to it.

Have not cleaned the under side of truck much, it has a lot of clay/dried mud everywhere, will do later. Currently just working on making it drivable, to get title transferred. This state requires an inspection ( including safe drivability ) for title transfer/registration.

All the extra fuel hose in bottom of photo, are for the right side fuel tank, not currently installed.

[aotte1]

CS Alternator 12 Volt Switched W/Resistor Wire

The photos below, show the wire connector ACDELCO PT2145 referenced in post #26 above.
Initial observation is that it charges very well.

[aotte1]

With the truck now starting and running, trailered to DMV for title and registration.

Next stop is trailer it back to transmission shop for correct adjustment of transmission cable to carb linkage. Not allowing transmission to shift out of first gear, until cable adjusted properly. Technician set cable, test drove, confirm operation correct.
Did a ride along, received information as transmission shifted through gears and lock-up. This version 700R4 incorporates a hydraulic activated converter lock-up.

Back home, unload truck off trailer. Time for first drive beyond driveway. Grandson took the wheel and off we went for about an hour. Back home and checked under truck, looks good.

[aotte1]

Now up on lift, for differentials gear change to 4:10. Consideration choosing 4:10s, big tires, 33-12.50, and some in family wanting 35s ( not me). The 33-12.50 look nice, but are big and heavy. Plan to test later how much extra gas they require.

Note: Prefer the 4:10 gear ratio vs 4:11, gear teeth configuration.

[aotte1]

A few more photos of left side exhaust, at 700R4 transmission frame to trans shift rod. Now up on lift for gear change, so different view. Hope these photos kind of provide image of exhaust route around shift rod, if interested. Again this is all based on header exit location. These headers exit high.

[aotte1]

Additional right side.

[aotte1]

Rear gear change to 4:10s. The differential photo shows the factory low speed locker. The
K10s come with the heavy duty JB5 brake package. The rear brakes are 2 3/4” wide. The CuNi brake line will be replaced.

[PowerdbyChevy79]

Very nice... I've always been a fan of 4x4 swb's...

[aotte1]

Powerbychevy,
Thanks for complement, slow getting back, a little health issue. Hope tomorrow to finish front axle gear change.
Les

[aotte1]

FRONT AXLE GEAR CHANGE TO 4:10

Turned truck around on lift and started taking left side apart to get axle out.
One suggestion, not sure if necessary, recommend mark spindle rotation position to knuckle, keeps alignment same once back together. NOTE: you may find circular alignment shim between the spindle/knuckle, definitely mark their rotation position to the knuckle. The thickness varies around their circumference as an alignment adjustment. Suggest research this before taking apart, to fully understand their purpose. Will highlight in later photo, left side had none, right side did.

Third photo manual locking hub cap removed. Used a new kit to replace screws, seals, and locking rings in the manual hub.
Forth photo taken apart down to the spindle, keeping parts in order of removal.
Fifth photo spindle removed from knuckle, removal can be hard, careful not to damage parts using force. Lubricated connection circumference with penetrating oil. The knuckle has two small recessed areas on circumference. Used my air hammer with chisel attachment to vibrate connect at these two recessed areas vs forcing apart.

[aotte1]

Right side axle removal.
First photo show spindle nut removal tool needed, along with yellow arrow pointing to recessed ares on knuckle.
Photo two show alignment shim, will high light soon.
Third, shows some of tools used.
Forth, carrier removed and pinion bearing race needs to be removed. The carrier in this case was extreamly tight, removal needed lots of force. Likely factory used spreader device in case holes for install.
Fifth, new ring gear and bearings installed

[aotte1]

Another photo of tools.
Second, show pinion gear w/bearing installed. Took three tries installing pinion with different shims for the gears to be installed with correct clearance.
Three and four gears installed.
Last photo shows the circular alignment shim placed between spindle and knuckle. It fits over the studs on the knuckle. Be sure to mark its rotational position on it and knuckle before removing, because it is thicker on one side. As it is used for alignment adjustment.

[aotte1]

Inner parts of axle and pumpkin sprayed. Use alu foil to protect parts from paint over spray. New alu cover similar to rear cover on back order, maybe available late spring. Much of truck underside not cleaned yet, focus is on bring able to drive. FYI, front sway bar is 1.25”.

[Willowrun]

Nice work!

[aotte1]

Willowrun,
Thanks for the complement. Nice blazer, also working on 72.

Note: update on front dif cover, had to go back and put a little silicon on the bolt flange faces, to stop a small seep from the bolts. Plan to upgrade the front dif cover to an “LPW” unit, once back in stock, maybe April??

Les

[aotte1]

TV Show
Reference information for “POWER NATION” TV series on building a square body 1985 K10 short bed as a replica truck copy of the TV series “Fall Guy”. Below is a you tube link to one of the shows. From there you should be able to link and see list of all shows on this truck.
https://youtu.be/1vzq6FE7lJw

Hope this works, first time adding link to YouTube. I found it to have some helpful suggestions, it is a little heavy on using certain expensive new parts, where original work great.

[LT7A]

How's this build going? You're certainly getting the important parts all dialed in. That was a great truck to snag and put new life into.

[aotte1]

LT7A the build is moving along slowly, will update AC working now, along with auxiliary electric fans install to support AC on at idle.
Also air/fuel ratio gauge. And thanks for complement.
Been driving some and enjoy it, drives very nice. Lots of parts to install in future, interior, body patch repairs, aux fuel tank…..
Les

[LT7A]

Cool! Keep us posted, fun to watch.

[aotte1]

LT7A,
Will update soon, projects in the works:
- replace aux fuel tank;
- complete dual electric fan install, summer w/AC on idle;
- air fuel ratio gauge set up; and
- replace front springs.

- long term suburban buckets, interior restoration.

NOTE; It is fun to drive, with this drive train, just above idle at 45 to 55. Also, this engine is a nice driver. The overall drive train, trans, rear axle ratio, and tires for me is good for me as a driver.



Les