Converting to hydroboost

[TimUK]

I have a 71 C10, disc, drum with vacuum power assist.
Would like to convert to hydoboost. I was hoping to keep the master and proportioning valve.
Which unit is best? There are so many out there it gets confusing.

Thanks

Tim

[LockDoc]

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Here is what I did on my Dually project.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...829820&page=12

Starts with post #284 and goes off and on to about 303.

LockDoc

[Richard]

Purchased a unit from Vanco myself. Came with all the hoses and fittings. Main reason I used them is they have experience porting the hydroboost units for use with a steering ram and high volume pump like I am using (5 gpm). I modified the mounting a bit for a direct fit to firewall without an adapter plate and adjusted the hole for connection of stock push rod to my pedal arm. Do not want any hap hazzard weak aftermarket parts there. Adapting parts may take customization. Mechanical ability is definitely required in many circumstances.
I used a later model (2006) master and adjustable prop valve for my disk/disk setup. 57taskforce used a stock master on his conversion, maybe contact him for some info.

[72SB]

OP, if your motor makes low vacuum, around 12hg, consider going with a 9" dual diaphragm booster. I got the Tuff Stuff one. Brakes are excellent now.

[57taskforce]

My hydroboost is out of an 09 silverado, it uses the factory power steering pump, master cylinder, and proportioning valve.

[MikeB]

Educate me here. Is there a reason for converting to hydroboost on a C10 or even C20 other than low vacuum created by a big cam?

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by 72SB

OP, if your motor makes low vacuum, around 12hg, consider going with a 9" dual diaphragm booster.

Hard to beat a dual 9" booster. 34% more diaphragm area than stock 11". We used to have a member here who sold complete dual 9" kits, but I haven't seen posts by him in a while. Seemed like he used quality components, too.

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by TimUK

I have a 71 C10, disc, drum with vacuum power assist.
Would like to convert to hydoboost. I was hoping to keep the master and proportioning valve.
Which unit is best? There are so many out there it gets confusing.

Thanks

Tim

If you don't want to do any fabrication you can look at Hydratech.. https://www.hydratechbraking.com

I used everything off a 1986 k3500 diesel, so the master already matched the booster, nothing to fuss with. I did a brake pedal mod and re-drilled the rod mounting hole on the pedal.

The best system is subjective... unless you are talking about a turn key solution.

You have options galore when it comes to choosing Hydroboost components.

Good luck!

J

[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Educate me here. Is there a reason for converting to hydroboost on a C10 or even C20 other than low vacuum created by a big cam?

The hydroboost puts out quite a bit more assist than even the best of vaccum boosters. Most late model GM stuff has hydroboost as an option regardless of whether it’s a gas or diesel truck. I used it on mine because with the incoming front dana 60 and plans to run a minimum of 35 inch tires, I wanted to do everything in my power to make sure the brakes weren’t ever going to be a concern.

With stock size tires on it now it will easily lock the tires up on asphalt *if* I tell it too, but at the same time the pedal overall has a better modulating feel to me than the original 3/4 ton vacuum booster ever did.

[bdoobie69]

I used the whole setup out of a 90's astro van. Works great and clears up a lot of space.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by bdoobie69

I used the whole setup out of a 90's astro van. Works great and clears up a lot of space.

Gee, I sure would miss my 11" booster and M/C hanging way out into engine compartment.

[TimUK]

Thanks everyone for the ideas.

The reason for me to go to hydroboost is that I live on a very steep hill with four hairpin turns. They are full lock turns and, even then, one requires two stabs at it. When I leave the house I have to ride the brakes all the way down. They require a lot of pedal pressure but you have the feeling you just could not stop if you really had to. On the regular road, they are fine.

Going up the hill, I just went to positrack as the wet hill could leave you sitting on a turn or sliding back ( happened to two contractors).

Always an adventure!

Tim

[1967GMCC20]

Hydroboost on my 67 BBC. Have it set up like orig 396 from 1968. Brakes work great. I have great vaccum mild cam, but this system works well with pwr steering.

[IIGW]

Originally Posted by TimUK

There are so many out there it gets confusing.

actually there really is one or two 'hydroboost' units.
they just have different mounting plates depending on what they came from, like an astro van or a 85 dually.

I goto the local junk yard on half off day and pick up a few units/hoses for like $40 dolalrs.

Then retro fit them into whatever vehicles. Right now a 78 scout ii, and a 97 s10, and another 1985 s10.

The main issue is altering the brake pedal to get the correct ratio.
many times i will get the entire pedal assemby from a hydroboosted vehicle and then either use the brake pedal or measure the distances from the 'swing to pin' ratio and copy that info.

But to asnwer the qeustion, therye all the same, its just the 'bling bling' thats different.

[custom10nut]

Sub’s for future projects

[JPnTX]

You might want to consider an iBooster instead. Cleaner install and enhanced functionality.

[Extended Power]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Educate me here. Is there a reason for converting to hydroboost on a C10 or even C20 other than low vacuum created by a big cam?

With some engines, there is absolutely no way of removing the drivers side valve cover with the brake booster in the way. (Even a stock big block with short valve covers.)

My new engine is a tall deck big block, with aftermarket heads, (taller than factory) and stud girdle, which required valve cover spacers on each side, even with tall valve covers.
Even with the hydroboost, the fittings coming out of the hydroboost, which are facing the valve cover, are only 1/4” or so away from each other.

[jessemthompson]

This is probably going to be a springtime project for my truck. Just to clear some space and add some braking power. They tend to make the brakes a bit touchy. It just takes some getting used to