Boy is she rough…

[Grounded63]

[QUOTE=C) If i had the budget I would just buy new doors. Ive got untold hours in just one and its still just "ok". Every truck Ive owned has always had a ding in the body line on the door and ive never been able to get that perfect.[/QUOTE]

Depending on the type of body line your talking about, and your access. A body line with a peak, that has dings, or has been flattened. My favorite tool, is a dolly made from a 3" wide masons chisel. You need to profile and polish it. Round the edge over, and lay the outer corners back. So they don't dig in. That with a fairly heavy metal slapper/spoon. And a decently stout hammer. Not a body hammer. You can hammer the peak back where you want it. And profile the outer contour with the slapper.

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

When you get to the rockers, make sure the inner lip that the door seal fits over isn't sticking too far outward. We've seen a few trucks with aftermarket rockers with that lip too far out and it makes the door really hard to close because the seal gets pinched. You may have to cut it off and weld it farther inward to align with the door correctly.

I’ve done the rockers and that part looks fine, but like all the others I’ve ever bought they had to be filleted and reworked at the curves where they meet the kick panel area. That’s good info though and I’ll keep that in mind when I get to the door seals.

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by Grounded63

Depending on the type of body line your talking about, and your access. A body line with a peak, that has dings, or has been flattened. My favorite tool, is a dolly made from a 3" wide masons chisel. You need to profile and polish it. Round the edge over, and lay the outer corners back. So they don't dig in. That with a fairly heavy metal slapper/spoon. And a decently stout hammer. Not a body hammer. You can hammer the peak back where you want it. And profile the outer contour with the slapper.

It’s the outward peak roughly in the middle of the door. They’re always bashed in somewhere where I can’t get behind it. Your method would work great if I had access. I guess I could unskin the door to do that.

[Grounded63]

If the rest of the skin is in good shape. And, you don't need to replace any of the bottom structure. I would cut out a section of the inner structure, under the door panel to gain access. Pretty much minimal weld clean up, is needed that way. If the dings are somewhat minor. You can try wedging ( with tension ) a dolly between the inner structure and outer skin. Then hammer or slap/spoon to raise them.

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by Grounded63

If the rest of the skin is in good shape. And, you don't need to replace any of the bottom structure. I would cut out a section of the inner structure, under the door panel to gain access. Pretty much minimal weld clean up, is needed that way. If the dings are somewhat minor. You can try wedging ( with tension ) a dolly between the inner structure and outer skin. Then hammer or slap/spoon to raise them.

I might try that when I do the other side. Thanks

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by Grounded63

If the rest of the skin is in good shape. And, you don't need to replace any of the bottom structure. I would cut out a section of the inner structure, under the door panel to gain access. Pretty much minimal weld clean up, is needed that way. If the dings are somewhat minor. You can try wedging ( with tension ) a dolly between the inner structure and outer skin. Then hammer or slap/spoon to raise them.

It’s this area here I always have trouble with.

[Grounded63]

Somebody flattened that out good . . . But, I'd rather straighten that, than something that looks like a bag of Walnuts : )

[LT7A]

Good job getting busy saving that one - it was about to become part of the landscape.

[straight6chevyguy]

Great work so far! Good to see you on another project.

[Chad-1stgen]

Nice work! Enjoying following along. I appreciate folks that have the patience for this level of metal work.

[Pick121]

Originally Posted by jdl71

…but they ain’t gettin any younger. My latest haul is a 65 C10 long fleet. Originally 525 Saddle and I believe a V8. I’d like to make this my last one, (lol) take my time and do it right from the ground up. I’ve started the easy part, taking it apart. We will see how it goes.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1686617206

Will you keep the bucket seats? They aren’t stock or are they?
I love how you painted the frame, tractor tipping onto its side very ingenious

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by Pick121

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1686617206

Will you keep the bucket seats? They aren’t stock or are they?
I love how you painted the frame, tractor tipping onto its side very ingenious

No, I think they are some sort of Chrylser seats. They are destined for the dumpster.

[jdl71]

I need a firewall and a roof skin before I can really do much more body work and neither of those are in the budget right now so I changed gears and started working on the suspension. Replaced all the ball joints,tie rod ends and sleeves, wheel seals, lower control arm shaft seals and front springs. I had one rusted spring and got lucky and found a pair of moog springs on closeout at rockauto for $60. Almost half price. Then I turned to the rear and my luck has ran out. I think my trailing arms are saveable but the rest of the axle is junk. I have taken a lot of diff covers off and have never seen anything like that. I dont even know how that happens. The pinion shoved too far back when it was setup?
Also the axle tubes are almost rusted completely through where the ubolts were. Im picking up a different axle tomorrow although its out of a 63, so Ill have to figure out something for the panhard bar. Ive read a lot of posts about the differences but so far they have all been someone putting a newer rear end in an older truck, not the other way around like I am doing.

[jdl71]

More pics

[rbruno68]

Geez, I didn't know that was even possible to do to a carrier. I bet that made a heck of a racket while it was chewing that up.