replace water pump at same time of radiator?

[vardenafil]

im replacing the radiator in my k20. I was wondering while i have things pulled apart if i should replace the water pump with a new pump maybe a high flow pump? i would do it as cheap insurance to make sure everything is running correctly.

[truckster]

I would say a good flush, a pump and thermostat, and check the hoses and replace if they're at all questionable.

[Accelo]

I would change it. The time and labor you save, if it goes bad soon, will more than pay for the pump.
Purchase new, not rebuilt. Get an extra gasket in case you damage one.

[vardenafil]

is a high-volume pump worth the extra few bucks? good call on the hoses. ill add those to my list also

[72SB]

new radiator, absolutely flush motor and heater core. You don't want crud in new radiator. New cap also.

If WP is of unknown age or miles, replace it. If you know the history of it than it should be fine if there is no play in the shaft. HD water pumps typically were on AC vehicles. Nothing wrong with running one.

All hoses, including heater. T stat also. Good time to add belts if they are old.

[oneshotkyle]

Originally Posted by truckster

i would say a good flush, a pump and thermostat, and check the hoses and replace if they're at all questionable.

a++

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Make sure to fit the pump, and ensure it clears the timing cover before deciding to paint it, ask me how I know

[c30]

And maybe the fan clutch too, if there is one.

[MARKDTN]

I see no need for a high flow or volume water pump on anything stock or mild.

But you can go into a rabbit hole of while the pump is off the timing chain is right there but to do that right the oil pan has to come off and while it's off may as well do an oil pump and screen and and.....

[vardenafil]

Originally Posted by c30

And maybe the fan clutch too, if there is one.

There is (what looks like) a brand new medium duty hayden fan clutch. I thought about replacing it with the heavy duty version. But i dont know if its worth the 40 dollars for a slight upgrade.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

I see no need for a high flow or volume water pump on anything stock or mild.

But you can go into a rabbit hole of while the pump is off the timing chain is right there but to do that right the oil pan has to come off and while it's off may as well do an oil pump and screen and and.....

Loosen the four front pan bolts on a SBC and the timing cover can be rotated out. I've done it many times.

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Loosen the four front pan bolts on a SBC and the timing cover can be rotated out. I've done it many times.

Yes. I have also left the pan and just filled the timing cover groove with blue goo. And I've taken screwdrivers and gotten the seal in too. But my point is that this is a job that CAN have scope creep-you just have to decide how deep you want to go (and how "right" you want to do it).

I would not automatically change a water pump with a radiator change. If the pump is not leaking, the bearing feels OK, and it has been wet I would leave it. On my '83 K20 I changed the pump once and it promptly broke the shaft and threw the fan at my pretty new radiator. Luckily it was at idle and the belts retained it from doing much damage, it just chewed up the shroud a little and I replaced a belt. So I don't change them "just because" anymore.